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Have Paint Will Travel
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/07/11 - 6:35 PM
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It has come to my attention that my original thread
My Girl's Refit was getting too large and took a lot of time for some of our PC's to load.
I have added a poll to this new chapter into this refit
just for the pleasure of giving brief inputs.
Question: Would you use Gell or Paint for your own refit?
On the North West front.
I did take advantage of the pleasant weather today and spent three hours sanding the decking s and gunwale sides of the deck areas.
400 grit gave me enough control on the DA to stay within depth and to render the areas smooth and new.
The detail involved was surprisingly easy in comparing it the curved surfaces from the cap structures.
Corners and recesses will be done last with manual sandings.
The work has progressed rather nicely and buffing with a cutting compound will be the next step.
Got to run, good for now.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/07/11 - 6:40 PM
Dont lie
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/08/11 - 6:19 AM
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There is a lot to be said about the"art" of sanding
And this specifically working with Polyester resin.
I did find that the feel of the hand to the structures gave more of an actual feel leading to zeroing in on the coarseness spots of the areas
And laying down while sanding gave a more precise product where the 90' plus, where deck and inside gunwales met.
Turning your head just so produced a different angle and bead to the structures and allowed you to see all remaining dimples.
These were soon dispatched with the 400.
Ha!
One of my favorite sayings comes to mind
"We shall not concentrate on the work that lay before us but rather to the work that has so very well been accomplished."
More to come.
PS-An opinion is as similar as the nose on your face
Everybody has one.
Please vote.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/08/11 - 6:20 AM
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 10/08/11 - 7:05 AM
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I am missing something in these processes and can't quite put my finger on the problems. I have watched and helped a friend while he was painting his classic Porche with some extremely expensive auto paint. The project was rather tedious and done in a very high tech paint booth. It came out gorgeous and there was a considerable amount of sanding and buffing to get the finish to perfection. In total I would say he spent 2 full days prepping, taping, spraying, sanding, buffing and finishing.
My experience with GC is minimal to date and has been a real PITA!
Where I and I think others here are missing something is in the process. I have never watched a boat builder such as BW in the process of spraying GC on a new hull. Something tells me they do not and can not spend the hours of time we seem to in getting a new hull sprayed and ready for the show room floor. Does anyone here believe BW has a hull in the paint booth and on the finishing line for the hours upon hours we tend to spend? Can we honestly believe BW goes through all these steps of sanding with various grit papers and then buffing with all the different preparations and finally waxing after waiting around for GC to set up and dry?
I honestly don't believe it has to be this difficult a process and that a boat manufacturer could not possibly spend as much time and effort as we seem to have to. I know we have member who previously worked for BW or other manufacturers and someone with this knowledge could possibly step up and explain the process. I would love to hear from someone such as Chuck Bennett as to how much time it takes the factory to get a bare hull fully sprayed and finished. I certainly understand they are set up with all the gear and equipment to do this process in streamlined fashion but I am having a very hard time believing they go through all the trials and tribulations we have when doing it.
As far as the poll question goes, I don't know which way to vote as I believe the time and effort is equal either way but I would always opt to go with the factory finish if at all possible.
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 10/08/11 - 7:36 AM
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GC is sprayed onto the mold before any of the structural related glasswork is done. The quality of the GC finish is then related to the smoothness of the mold.
The more blimish free the mold is the less hand work there is to produce the beautiful GC finish BW is known for.
With only having experience with GC on a boat I can't attest to anything related to a painted hulls surface. You might want to consider GCing the interior and hull cap and painting the outside of the hull. This method would allow the attendant scratches from foot traffic, dragged coolers, anchors etc. to be repaired with seemless results. A repaired painted surface is much more difficult to repair with seemless results.
Zap
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| Blackduck |
Posted on 10/08/11 - 7:45 AM
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I would paint, unless it was a small repair. I question how good the bond is on re- gel coating, and the labor is just mind blowing. Try driving a screw into a re-gel coated surface, may times the new gel coat will separate from the old, no matter how well the surface was prepped.
Edited by Blackduck on 10/08/11 - 7:51 AM
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha |
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/10/11 - 1:33 PM
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Had to stop sanding due to rain.
Here is a site to describe as to how boats hulls and decking are fabricated.
http://www.macgregor26.com/constructi...uction.htm
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/17/11 - 4:44 PM
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More detailing today
Fish box at back proved to be a bit more work that I had anticipated
One point to be mentioned will be that
Upon sanding one of the inside wall surface
I did come upon a "bubble" that flaked off upon sanding.
The size was about a dime in circ.
The one and only flaking experienced in all surfaces.
The under lay proved to be the red glazing putty.
I would advise to not use this product as the drying will be extremely slow and sometimes will not dry at all.
A careful hand touch up will be done today and sanded smooth tomorrow.
Instead I would recommend to use either a vynilester or white filler mentioned in my original thread.
Time invested will pay of in regard to the finished product.
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 10/17/11 - 6:18 PM
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I always thought I'd go with gelcoat. but given all the issues you guys are having in the "Getting Ready to Spray Gelcoat" thread below, I'd have to vote for paint now. (Unless it was an 11' or 13' hull...)
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...owstart=20
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| gusgus |
Posted on 10/17/11 - 6:42 PM
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If I had the money, time, or willingness to dedicate myself for the inordinate amount of time I read about. How the process was repeated and repeated to find it required another 5 gallons to be "absolutely perfect" after the last ten gallons weren't enough already. I say with certainty I will paint. Plus I have yet to read about an anti fouling gel coat. So I will do all I can to return the hull to the form it was designed to be, but paint is just easy and one heck of a lot cheaper.
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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| contender250 |
Posted on 10/17/11 - 7:02 PM
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Nothing is wrong with painting a boat if it is done correctly and with the right materials. I just redid two whalers (1978 11, 1975 16) both were painted with awl-grip. Both boats were sanded, primed and painted, sanded and painted again. The other reason is I have never done gel-coat, and I understand it cost more, but I do not know for sure cause I know the awl-grip was not cheap...
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/18/11 - 7:21 PM
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Careful hand detailing in sanding today.
The indent between the rear fish box and inner stern section was carefully sanded to remove unwanted features.
The drain tube ports were sanded smooth removing residuals from spray.
The main idea and point to remember will be to keep in mind that this thread is not meant to discourage anyone from working with Polyester gell and resin.
The point of the whole adventure will be.
To
1-Have a recounting of my personal works.
2-Hopefully enjoy distractions from the daily grind.
3-Possibly get some pointers.
4-Laugh your ass off reading about this guy trying to hit the pinata.
5-Relate and understand that careful and attentive work has a sure way to pay dividends.
6-To understand that your project refit will give you satisfaction while doing the work AND bring a smile while thinking about solutions for the next step.
It is not so much about Paint or Gel Coat
It will be primarily about prepping to surfaces properly enough to receive the final skin.
Paint does not require sanding afterwards but Gell will
Therefore the extra details.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/18/11 - 8:26 PM
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 10/23/11 - 6:13 AM
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In the last few days
I have been working on my Mahogany fish tub cover and my RPS wood surfaces.
Careful and detailed sanding removed all traces of stains,varnish and oxidation.
Two coats of Epoxy West System showed excellent sealing and shine.
A point to remember will be
1- To sand lightly between coats and erasing small protrusions.
2-To apply the Epoxy only while the surfaces are flat thus preventing the clear to run.
This will save you some extra sanding and touch ups.
I may apply some varnish later in order to give it a harder finish.
Brand suggestions?
I have been studying as to the proper part s to ad to the transom in order to be able to tow or to possibly lift the stern from two "eyes"
I am wondering as to what Perko or Whaler OEM parts may be available for this duty.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/23/11 - 6:15 AM
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 02/08/12 - 5:05 PM
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It seems that the time is actually right to give another chat to this favorite Man folly of boat refitting; "My Everlasting Beauty" the Classic Outrage 19-1975.
And yes, more photos will be posted as soon as possible.
Night shift being done with
I do find myself typing with coffee in my housecoat while the Wife is religiously tuning to her favorite soap.
The latest weeks have been spent looking for parts for the refit.
A long sought set of Merc gauges originally from Puerto Rico were graciously farmed out to me from Captain Jim Mc Padden.
May the Good Lord and all the Saints in Heaven always keep an eye on him and his Crew.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/...6585f.jpg/
Another big Thank You to Gary Lothrop for sharing in his original console set of rod holders.
I did spend a few hours prepping them up for a permanent finish.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/...0586m.jpg/
Always a pleasure to help each others when in need.
Halls Nautical was contacted for an order of console and 94Qts cooler cushions.
Sorry to see them retire after years of first rate services to so many Whaler owners.
My mind has been spanning subject of garnishing of Mahoganies and Teaks and the ever resurfacing fact that I will have to equip my stern with a first rate jack plate to recouple my Mercury to the renewed aft sections.
Edited by ritzyrags on 02/08/12 - 5:49 PM
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| Binkie |
Posted on 02/08/12 - 7:23 PM
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An old boat painter told me that a blind man would make a better sander than a sighted one, Makes sense, the smoothness of the finish must be felt with the hand, and cannot be seen with the eye.
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| kamie |
Posted on 02/08/12 - 8:03 PM
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Binkie,
I was told something similar about refinishing furniture, if you want to know that all the old finish has been removed and the piece sanded and ready for the new finish, just close your eyes and run your hands across it. It's amazing how our sense of touch can pick out imperfections that our eyes miss.
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 02/09/12 - 5:54 AM
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The majority of my furniture building is with Oak. The trick with this wood is to get the final finish sanded as smooth as possible and then raise the grain by wiping it down with a damp rag. Sand it again by hand and do it again until you can feel no rough spots at all. My final trick is to get it finished to the best of my touch and then have my wife feel it up all over with softer hands. She can easily find spots that my rough hands just can't detect. There is nothing more frustrating than to apply the finish coat only to have it bring out sanding swirls and lines.
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 03/02/12 - 12:39 PM
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Winter has been a rather mild one with plenty of Pineapple express systems roaring by.
Parts have been sought and received for the project here.CPT Jim sent gauges,console rod holders from Gary and Bow Eyes from Yorick in the Netherlands.
The Igloo cooler 94 was located and MILLS cushions were ordered from Harry and Lois.
Bow locker questions remains to be solved.
In regard to the front anchor locker question
Upon prepping my unit for resurfacing
I had to remove two stainless coil springs that were attached to each sides within the recess.
And then when I did inspect a 1972 Whaler 19 as a prospect for purchase
I did view a type of locking mechanism involving said springs into making both doors to stay into an open position when being "locked".
If unable to locate these parts I will have to fabricate a "system" to meet my needs.
Until later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 03/02/12 - 1:48 PM
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| sdespop |
Posted on 03/02/12 - 3:38 PM
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To paint or gelcoat depends on whether the boat will live in the water or be trailered. Finish paints such as Awlgrip or Interlux won't hold up below the waterline if left in the water for over 72 hours. As my 15 Sport lives on a trailer, I opted for Interlux Perfection, a 2 part polyurethane paint. Easy to apply with roller & tip method or, if you fave a good respirator, by spraying and the finish is very hard and durable. Finish sanding with very fine wet paper gives it a nice gloss.
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 03/04/12 - 4:40 AM
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I have managed to locate the 94 QTS Igloo marine cooler at West Marine and too the trip to pick it up yesterday.
I did find the store staff to be professional and helpful in my need for these parts.
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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| ritzyrags |
Posted on 05/16/12 - 12:36 PM
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Had to manage to keep the project alive and this while being overwhelmed by domestic duties.
Large sections of fencing were blown down by killer winds this Early spring.
I still managed to address the resurfacing of my Mahoganies and Teaks.
I did enjoy using and epoxy product called System Three.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1416
The work invested has been fun and rewarding.Will have to get some duties out of the way and start reassembling ASAP.
Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up.. |
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