1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Gelcoat Sanding
Ropar31	#1  Posted on 09/10/10 - 3:02 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/29/10	I hope this isn't a repeat question, but I've scanned the forum's and while I've seen plenty on gelcoat crazing repair, I haven't found a specific answer to this. I am restoring a '65 whaler I bought, the hull and interior are all very crazed. I have removed all hardware and am sanding down the gelcoat, and going to put on 3 layers of interlux primer followed by 3 layers of interlux perfection. That being said, how do I know how far to sand down the Gelcoat? The boat has never been re-painted, and as I am doing the interior, the crazing seems to go all the way down. I can get down to what appears to be the resin, where the blue stops and it turns brown. Is this to far? If I am using primer, do I need to eliminate all the crazing, or will it fill the crazing instead of bridging? Also, what are the downsides to using a 60 or 40 grit to get through the gelcoat then going with an 80 up to a 120 prior to the primer? Thanks.
DWinter	#2  Posted on 09/10/10 - 3:43 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 252 Comments: 0 Joined: 01/02/10	If it's spider cracks you're dealing with, you gotta go down to the brown. If you don't get rid of the cracked gelcoat, the cracks will reappear. Duane G Winter 1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
tedious	#3  Posted on 09/10/10 - 5:30 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1072 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/07/08	The only downside to lower grits is the need for care so you don't create big gouges or cut too deep. You really don't want to tear into the glass fibres or you'll lose some strength. I'd tend to stop at 60 myself - 40 is like gravel glued to cardboard. Tim Edited by tedious on 09/10/10 - 5:31 PM
grahamh	#4  Posted on 09/11/10 - 4:34 PM
Member Posts: 60 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/28/10	this post brought to mind a question I have been wondering for a while. I plan to do some minor fiberglass/gelcoat repair in the spring. Everything I read tells me that one of the great things about fiberglass/gelcoat is how easy it is to repair. Yet, I see many people repairing fiberglass and gelcoat with epoxy (ie west system) and topside paint. Why do people do this? Why not just repair with fiberglass resin and gelcoat? If this is not the right place to ask this question I will repost under its own title. Thanks Graham