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Get out the checkbook!
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| Northern Exposure |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 6:12 AM
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I'm a greenhorn here. I owned a 13' Whaler many (many) years ago and loved it. Haven't boated for a long time. I was recently gifted a 1985 Montauk that had not been run in five years or so and was sitting in a back lot. I just had to do a 1000 mile round trip to get it and bring her home. I will post some pictures soon - but suffice it to say - I have a LOT of work ahead of me.
First hurdle was to have the Johnson dealer check over the 1985 90 hp motor. He said compression was good, spark was good and after cleaning out a ants nest, replacing the battery, a rotten water line and changing fluids it was running good! Three hundred bucks down and, I'm sure many more to go 
I have a lot of elbow grease to put on on the fiberglass hull. Both the outside and the interior. The previous owner gave me a partial jug of Roll-Off ( I think that was the name) and swears it is what I should use. Is that the product most of you would recommend? What else do you use for restoring the luster and cleaning the hull?
Thanks for any help and suggestions.
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| tedious |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 8:14 AM
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Congratulations on your acquisition!
As far as cleanup and restoring shine, a lot will depend on the current condition of the boat. Is it just faded and chalky, with perhaps a few spider cracks, or is it heavily cracked, to the point where you're going to want to deal with that?
For general cleanup, I have found that household products work pretty well. Barkeeper's Friend cleanser works particularly well on rust and other stains, but just try what you have first - nothing abrasive, of course. Whatever you use, be sure to rinse it clean with water afterwards - you don't want the chemicals sitting on your gelcoat or metal over the long term.
There are a lot of posts here on restoring lustre, if you get to that point - just do a search. I bought this kit http://properboatcare.com/bowtostgelco2.html with the Porter-Cable 7424 polisher, and I am pretty happy with the results.
If your gelcoat is heavily cracked, then you get into significantly more work, and you'll have to decide between re-gelcoating and repainting with a 2-part marine finish (Awlgrip and the like).
Tim
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| Northern Exposure |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 8:24 AM
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Thanks Tim. I am getting through the layers of surface dirt first. Spent a few bucks at the magic wand car wash and hardly made a dent in the grime. Once I get it cleaned up I will be able to tell better what kind of cracks or checks the gelcoat has.
I will get some "before" pictures and put them up and point out any areas of concern for feedback.
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| rvschulz |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 11:56 AM
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i used a product called Purple Power on the hull to clean the grime - worked pretty well. let it sit for 5 minutes to get some chemical reaction going. and it's organic - no environmental harm !
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| DWinter |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 3:58 PM
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Tilex and a pressure washer will clean the black stains, algae and mildew off. I recommend buying one of the little on handed pump up sprayers you can get at most garden centers. Otherwise your "trigger finger" gets mighty tired. You'll be surprised how good it will look after just once over. Wet the boat and spray the tilex. By the time you have the whole boat sprayed down, put on your rain bibs and boots and get on the fighting end of that pressure washer ( I use my electric 1800 psi one, not the big 3500 psi or you'll remove gelcoat too) And the purple power already mentioned is good also for cutting grease and grime.
Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 4:13 PM
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$300 isn't too bad so far...
BOAT stands for:
B = Break
O = Out
A = Another
T = Thousand
Keep your Checkbook handy....
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 08/13/10 - 6:15 PM
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Congrats on your new project! I hope you are taking a lot of progress pictures to share with us.
Look at it this way.....The boat was free so you are way ahead of the game!
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 08/14/10 - 7:17 AM
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I am in the same boat so to speak. My Montauk is a 1974 with an 84 90 HP Ev.
One thing I will caution you on is to repair any open holes in the deck before doing the interior cleaning. Water getting between the deck and hull is no good so just do a good check to be sure your drain tubes are sealed and make sure any of the screws fastening your CC and the RPS are sealed and secure. I had numerous holes in my deck from previous battery trays and bilge pump mountings and also many holes in the transom from old transducer and speed pick ups. The through hull drain tube in the bottom of the sump was completely rotted allowing any cleaning water and fluids to get between the deck and outer hull. Repair the important stuff first before tackling the grime issues.
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| Northern Exposure |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 7:43 AM
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I've got a bunch of pictures now. I just put a couple of them up on my personal page http://www.whalercentral.com//infusions/personal_page/view_personal_page.php?user_id=18964
One pic is just an overall look. The two other pics are areas of concern for sure. Both sides of the transom, just before the dip down for motor mounts are spread - as you can see.
Any ideas on what causes this - and more importantly - what I have to do to fix it?
Thank you all for your feedback.
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| themclos |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 9:46 AM
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Overall, that's a nice looking boat for free.
As for the separation on the green line on the transom, they may be room for concern. You need to ascertain the degree of damage to the transom, and you need to ensure no more water gets in those cracks.
They are easily addressed with epoxy, and there are probably articles on this site to help you. The damage may not be serious, but there is opportunity for water to get in to the transom through those cracks
Dan
1986 22 Outrage Cuddy, 2002 225HP Optimax |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 5:03 PM
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I had that same problem on mine but only on the top edge where the previous owner cinched down the kicker motor so tight you would think is was a rocket engine.
Cover those open wounds and allow them to dry. Then get some good epoxy and good clamps and fill the gaps and clamp them shut till it dries.
Any holes where water can get between the outer and inner hulls are bad and need to be repaired before you do anything. I think every fool who owned my boat in the past 35 years had a different idea where batteries, transducers, bilge pumps, oil tanks, fuel tanks and about any other items should go. Too bad not one of them ever thought to close the previous holes. Be sure to check the through hull drain tubes to be sure they are sealed. I can't think of a good reason why a BW can't last for a hundred years as long as a few maintenance issues are addressed. We have boats made back in the '50s that are still doing fine and making waves and news.
Gary
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 5:16 PM
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I've used LA's Totally Awsome Cleaner with incredible results. The only place I know to get it is at Dollar Tree stores, dollartree.com . It's cheap, $1.00 for 20 ounces, and it works.
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| joninnj |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 6:16 PM
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Joe Kriz wrote:
$300 isn't too bad so far...
BOAT stands for:
B = Break
O = Out
A = Another
T = Thousand
Keep your Checkbook handy....
Too funny I heard that one on pawn stars...
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!! |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 08/17/10 - 6:42 PM
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zappaddles wrote:
I've used LA's Totally Awsome Cleaner with incredible results. The only place I know to get it is at Dollar Tree stores, dollartree.com . It's cheap, $1.00 for 20 ounces, and it works.
If it works in LA. California I guess it should do fine in just about any other application! We landed in LA and drove from there to Las Vegas and it looked like a pretty over cast day the entire trip. NYC on 9/11 didn't even come close to those clouds of gunk. I didn't even have to smoke out there and my lungs felt like they had their fix. Wish I could find LA's totally Awesome Cleaner up this way in the NY Catskills, a bottle ought to last a lifetime. :-))))
Gary
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