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OK so this is my 3rd Whaler, 17 Montauk and the a 22 Revenge converted to Center console project. Al where past projects. Now I have a 19 Low pro 1978 that I am refitting. On the texas c`oast this is gem and brings a high resell. I missed the low freeboard with my kids on the 22'. Kids could not play ing the water. Now they will get to play in it when the fall out of the boat. Need rails on the side I guess.
This is a rare restore and there is just not much information on the internet about this boat. Few pictures also.
The boat's last owner had Transport boats remove the cap from this 20' outrage banana boat and install a front deck. The fiberglass work for the front deck was so ugly and poorly installed that I removed it. The deck was at a bad angle and was a second attempt of someone after a failed 1st attempt to install a deck on the two front seats.
The transom and deck is rock solid. I mean rock solid, my hats off to whaler for making such a great boat. This is why I love them.
It sucked cutting the front deck off. The saw marks on the front is from the jacka__ who failed at installin the deck, cut it off with a saw and then reinstalled a bigger one over it. I would love to meet this guy who did this and give him a peace of my mind.
I have refilled the bottom of the boat with foam and reglassed under where the tank goes. I have a new aluminum tank that I painted Evinrude blue and foamed it in placed. I purchased a flare to install all new brass drain tubes. MY 10 year son helped me with this.
The front deck has since got some grinding sanding and refiberglassing. My plan is to completely regelcoat the front of the boat. The floor has small crazing that goes up the curve of the deck. I am thinking about how to address this. I have thought about rolling gelcoat over the floor and then leaving it like that. I am also thinking about putting tan colored rubberized non stick to the floor and front decks.
Something not in the picture is a 1985 Evinrude that I am going over. Has great compression. Needs new water pump and carbs jobs. Anyone know how to rebuilt carbs and can help get me ogin on it.
When I reinstalled the console i used furniture grade 2x4 douglas fir to make the floor brackets and raised the console 2 inches. The wood and dash on the console I made. Using all douglas fir, starboard or teak. I also made teak floor extenions for the floor brackets. I am running the fuel tank vent up into the console and will make all of these teak wood things waterproof with a 1/3" starboard covers.
I made teak brackets for the side of the rear seat to hepl cover the edge and to hold the seat in place.
Installed a heavy weight Bob's Mahcine shop jack plate manaual to the transom. This is one heavy duty jackplate, 5/8" or 3/4" aluminum.
Isn't that the same boat you show in your personal page?
We have a couple other members that have created Project Albums here on WhalerCentral that appear to be working on the same Low Profile conversion.
Here is one. http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=31
Yes this is the same boat as in my profile. I found photobucket easier to upload pictures for the project but I am thinking once it is all down I am going to redo my person page on the site if I can.
I worked on the boat more today.
I finished my marine ply 3/4 console floor, epoxy on one side and rubber non skid on the other.
On the bow there was a 12" section that had delaminated, I am thinking from the ugly deck that was glasses to it. Foam was still there under it. I cleaned it all out, using a dremel open the crack more, drilled 10 holes the diameter of the end of a 1 ounce syringe end. Using thinkened west systems epoxy i filled the holes around interal and then once it was all oozing out everywhere I clapped it all off. It should be solid now.
The drain flare was purchased from a marine supplier store here in Kemah Tx named Blackburn. It cost $55. It is not long enough as it came with a 4" 1/2 bolt. I am using a 6" SS threaded 1/2 piece with nuts on each end to do the flairing. It is the only way to go as long as the pipe is not too long. I id 3/8" on each end. It can only flair so much brass. Makes factory looking drains. It works awesome, and is worth all $55.
TO remove the old tubes, I used a pair of needle nose pliers and collapsed the tube into itside. The tube completely crumbled to pieces.
Ran the motor a few days ago, 120 lbs on each piston. Had trouble idling but would run with some throttle. Need new water pump and tilt motor.
Does anyone know where to get the rubber gasket that goes on the bottom of the cowling?
