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Drain plug on floor not sealing. Taking on water.
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 8:59 AM
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Thanks. He did recommend a fiberglass guy since he doesn't do fiber work. I'm still waiting for a call back from him. But to answer your question, yes, I am disheartened by this turn of events. Looks like at this point alot more work than expected. Definately a little sad right now. My little boys are so excited and the boat and trailer was registered already by me.
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| MW |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 9:06 AM
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Dred,
Hold the phone there, is there any way that you can get some pics up so that we can see the problem ? You may not be S.O.L.
Matt |
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| awayland |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 9:14 AM
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I bet there is a temporary solution so you can use your boat the rest of the season. then you can work on making it look nice later. Where in CT are you?
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 10:13 AM
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I'm in the New Haven area. Here is a picture of the drain hole.
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 10:16 AM
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There's a picture on the first page of this thread. comment #14. Copy and paste the address.
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 10:38 AM
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I just copied and pasted and it worked.
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| gilgotes |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 11:57 AM
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The brass tube in the deck floor of my whaler (11 ft.) was corroded, so based on advice from WC members, I installed a pvc tube with WestSystems Six10 thicked epoxy through the deck. That acts as a permanent barrier to keep water out of the hull and doesn't depend on the O-rings and the brass tube. I'll be reinstalling new brass tubes for looks, but they are no longer needed. I'll post pics to my personal page when I get a chance.
p.s. The link worked when I tried it.
Mike
Edited by gilgotes on 07/30/10 - 3:05 PM
1976 11ft. Sport, 40hp Evinrude |
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 12:59 PM
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Pics would be great along with a detailed list of material I would need and tools. I like the pvc idea.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 1:14 PM
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Members are always welcome to submit articles using the link on the left sidebar along with photos.
Here is one members article that may or may not help you.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=94
We also have other articles on the Brass Drain Tubes.
Also check out the Project Albums that members create and upload photos to WhalerCentral.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lery_3.php
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 1:46 PM
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Not sure this is normal but after looking at all the photos of other 13ft Whalers of various years my boat drain hole goes all the way through to the bottom of the boat. No other boat seems to have that from studying all the pictures. The drain hole on my boat goes all the way through to the bottom of the boat. So you can see clear though to the other side.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 2:02 PM
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I'm surprised someone hasn't tried an "all epoxy" drain tube. This may work even better if the current hole is oversized. If you can find a pipe or piece of PVC with the correct OD, you could coat it with a release agent, spread thickened epoxy around the outside, slide it into the hole, use a syringe to inject more thickened epoxy if needed, squeege flush on both ends, let cure, then tap out the pipe. Guess you could also do this with a bit larger OD pipe and then install the brass drain tube afterwards too, for added protection and to keep the original look.
Just an idea...
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| MW |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 3:07 PM
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I'm thinking a piece of PVC pipe cut to length, gooped with 5200 marine adhesive and put in place, then fill in the void around the pipe and hull with "Marine Tex" and wipe clean with a rag soaked in mineral spirits.
Matt |
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 4:09 PM
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So filling the hole completly shut would be the way to go you think?
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| gilgotes |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 4:57 PM
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The hole is there to drain the deck. Why would you want to fill it in?
Take a piece of 1 in pvc pipe and, like MW said, cut it to length. You will have to remove some foam to make the hole larger between the hull and deck. Mark a 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" dia. circle around the existing hole. Cut the hole however you like. (I used a Roto-zip tool.) Place the tube in the hole and use some shims to center it and hold it in place. Now inject West Systems Six10 thicked epoxy in the spaces adjacent to the shims. (If you want to use 3M 5200 adhesive like a lot of people recommend, you must wait one week for it to harden and even then, it doesn't have structural strength and remains flexible. I made that mistake.) After about 4-6 hours, carefully remove the shims and fill in the gaps where the shims were. I left two holes to inject Great Stuff foam to fill the void around the pipe. The second hole is to verify that the foam filled the void. After the foam hardens, clean the two holes of foam and injectwith Six10 epoxy. Sand it, paint it, install new brass tubes with o-rings for the original look, and DONE.
Mike
1976 11ft. Sport, 40hp Evinrude |
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 5:04 PM
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G. Thank you for the detailed instructions. I will probably do just that minus the brass. Will the plug insert into the pvc and not let water in no problem?
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 5:11 PM
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I don't know of any Classic 13' that had a hole through the bottom of the boat for a drain.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/30/10 - 5:15 PM |
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| MW |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 5:16 PM
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Take the pvc pipe length that you are going to use to the marine store and check for the correct plug. I believe that it's a 3/4" "Live Bait Well" plug that fit's into 1" pvc tubing (actual opening is 3/4").
Matt |
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| dredey |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 5:21 PM
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Joe Kriz wrote:
I don't know of any Classic 13' that had a hole through the bottom of the boat for a drain.
I know. You think someone drilled a hole all the way through? But why would they do that? You can actually stick your finger up through the bottom and see it inside the hull. The hole itself is about 2 1/2 inches long all the way through. The guy I got it from said he had it on a slip in Rhode Island in the water up until 5 years ago. Since then it has seen no water.
Edited by dredey on 07/30/10 - 5:25 PM |
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| Josey Whaler |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 6:23 PM
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I have completed the drain fix described by derwd24 on a friends Whaler and it turned out great. We replaced both thru0hull splashwell drains with Flo-guard1" CPVC piping. The inside diameter of this pipe was perfect (perhaps a bit snug) for a standard T handle drain plug-about 7/8" as I recall. Here is What I did.
1. Remove the old brass tube. A hammer and large slotted screw-driver should do the trick.
2. Drill a 1 1/8" hole (the O.D. of the CPVC tube) in the outer hull. The CPVC pipe should fit into this hole VERY snugly.
3. Cut a 1 1/2" hole in the inner hull (bottom of the splash-well. This will create a 3/16" +/- air space around the CPVP pipe when inserted through the hull.
4. Determine what your deadrise is for your hull and cut a rough length of pipe. Place a standard pipe coupling piece on to the rough-cut pipe (it will slide on only so far and will be snug) and mitre-cut the tip of the coupling to the deadrise angle. Pull the coupling off, flip the coupling around, apply CPVC glue to both parts and insert the cut end of the coupling on to the pipe and let dry.
5. Cut the pipe-coupling connection approximately 1/8" below the transition at the same deadrise angle. This will leave a section of pipe with a 1/8" lip created by the glued-on coupling.
6. Insert the pipe through the hull bottom to ensure the deadrise angle of the lip you crated fits well to the deadrise of the hull. Remove the pipe.
7. Next we re-inserted the pipe and poured west systems epoxy from the top-side to fill the airspace we cored out of the hull. As was previously mentioned, a releasing agent should be used so after the epoxy is dry, the pipe can be removed leaving a completely sealed inner and outer hull. I was concerned the items I had on hand as releasing agents would not let go of the epoxy-pipe connection as the epoxy will heat up when it kicks, so I actually wrapped the pipe very tightly with wax paper. This worked as planned and the pipe slid right out after the epoxy dried.
8. Next, I re-inserted the pipe and marked where to make the final cut on the pipe at the bottom of the splashwell (about 1/8" high. Do the smae exercise with the coupling, only this time, no deadrise angle cut should be needed. Cut a 1/8" piece of coupling and have it loose.
9. Re-install the pipe from the bottom with some 5200 at the outer hull connection. The pipe should stick 1/8" above the bottom of the splashwell and glue the coupling/lip on to the pipe. Seal with some 5200 and install a standard stainless steel clam shell fitting on the underside of the hull. And there you have it.
The beauty about this procedure is that even if the pipe or the fittings were to fail, the foam core is sealed from water intrusion via the epoxy. This was important because the old brass-tube/rubber lip installation failed and began to saturate the hull. And since only the lips of the pipe are glued in place, you should be able to remove/replace the pipe simply by knocking off the lips. Unfortunately, I did not document this process. The 1st hole took a couple hours because of needed intermittent mental energy. the second hole less than an hour.
So far, so good. This is the 3rd season and things still look good
Edited by Josey Whaler on 07/30/10 - 6:29 PM |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 7:42 PM
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dredey wrote:
Joe Kriz wrote:
I don't know of any Classic 13' that had a hole through the bottom of the boat for a drain.
I know. You think someone drilled a hole all the way through? But why would they do that? You can actually stick your finger up through the bottom and see it inside the hull. The hole itself is about 2 1/2 inches long all the way through. The guy I got it from said he had it on a slip in Rhode Island in the water up until 5 years ago. Since then it has seen no water.
Hold on here and lets get a few things straight. If you shove a coat hanger through the hole in your picture it should come out at the rear of your boats transom and certainly above the bottom of the hull. The bottom of a boat sits horizontal while the transom is vertical and the motor is attached to the transom.
I'll venture to guess you have a tube that comes out right below your motor mounting bracket, on the transom, just like the rest of us and not on the bottom as you state.
Either way, you have a Whaler and it will float no matter what you do even if the plug leaks. I sure would not let it ruin my season and I would highly recommend you find a better dealer or boat guy to deal with. It is all repairable and if you can't do it yourself then find someone who is out of work, like millions are, this fall and after the season and pay them to fix it. It is not rocket science but we all understand that we all don't have the tools or know how to do it ourselves. So you pay a guy but don't bother with the guy who told you you were SOL! It is a Boston Whaler and they are darn near unsinkable so not to worry. I would get it fixed over this winter and after it has dripped as much water as possible out. Mine was way worse than yours and she will sail again.
Gary
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