1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Trailer Configuration for 13'?
oldroyal	#1  Posted on 07/08/10 - 10:24 PM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/10	Just bought a 1970 13' that is in pretty okay condition, but the trailer that came with it is all wrong. It has rollers instead of bunks, for example, and seems configured for a bigger boat. Can anyone describe for me the correct trailer configuration for a 13' so I can get to work redoing it? What size keel rollers should I have? How many? Two bunks or four? Where should they be placed to support the boat best? Thanks for any suggestions. And here's a question that will highlight my ignorance: Where do I stick the boat while working on the trailer? There's no mooring available so leaving it in the water is out. Is laying the boat flat on the lawn (with engine raised) a bad idea? I've also (don't laugh) thought of suspending the boat from my 2X12 garage rafters with six or so webbing slings. Be sort of a boat jock strap, I guess. Seriously, would this work? Many thanks!
CES	#2  Posted on 07/09/10 - 3:51 AM
Member Personal Page Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 2681 Comments: 7 Joined: 04/27/07	Hello. Typically whalers are sitting on trailers with keel rollers and bunks. The keel rollers on my trailer are six inches wide and I have four bunks. Two bunks will be just fine for your set up. When I worked on my trailer awhile back, I had my 13' on three small saw horses. I've seen many 13's sitting on the front lawn and there's no problem doing that while you work on your trailer. Edited by CES on 07/09/10 - 3:52 AM Cliff 1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
tjxtreme	#3  Posted on 07/09/10 - 7:34 AM
Member Posts: 16 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/19/09	There is no single correct way to have the trailer configured. Mine is on a two-bunk trailer, and I have the bunks spaced on the outside of the two "fins" on the bottom (sorry, don't know their proper name). I didn't worry about their angle and just loaded the boat. Once the boat is on, you can loosen the angle and the bunks will rotate to the contour of the boat... and then retighten. I would just work with what you have, not worrying about making any major changes... just one you are happy with and feel adequately supports the boat. You can also launch it and tie it up/beach it nearby while you work on it if it just some adjustments.
lrak	#4  Posted on 07/09/10 - 7:41 AM
Member Posts: 62 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/08/07	My trailer has two 4 1/2 foot(ish) 2x4 bunks about 3/4" from each strake on the bottom. The bunks support the boat a little but not much. I'd guess 40-50lbs is on each bunk when the trailer is level and stationary. They are mostly there so that the boat doesn't roll when cornering or someone steps into the boat on the trailer. The rest of the boats weight is supported by three keel rollers. A 12" wide one about 8" infront of the stern and then two more 4" ones equally spaced to support the center and bow. Edited by lrak on 07/09/10 - 7:44 AM
rvschulz	#5  Posted on 07/09/10 - 8:18 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 145 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/28/10	while i am working on my 13, i have it sitting on 4 sawhorses. the trailer i will use when i get it ready has 2 bunks and a keel roller - which is the recommended setup per BW. they suggest no "roller" trailers - which i understand to mean trailers with ONLY rollers.
oldroyal	#6  Posted on 07/09/10 - 9:44 AM
Member Posts: 2 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/30/10	This is great. You guys are extremely helpful. Many thanks!!
John Fyke	#7  Posted on 07/09/10 - 10:15 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	You can lift the boat with a jack. Put a block of wood under the keel and start adding the bunks there. Then go to the front and do the same thing to finish the bunks. You don't have to remove the boat from the trailer at all. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
Turpin	#8  Posted on 07/09/10 - 9:07 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 434 Comments: 20 Joined: 07/04/08	My particular setup has two bunks (2x4) about 4ft long on outside of strakes, if you go to long the curvature of the hull becomes. As stated before the bunks are to help steady the boat most of the weight should be on the keel rollers. I went a little over kill on keel rollers because I too was given a trailer that didn't nor want to fit the the boat. Due to spacing on trailer cross members I elected to put rollers on each so there was no chance of the keel hitting them regardless of ramp angle plus I found a really good on them. I also found that if you use a 8" roller on the end of the trailer it helped me loading in cross winds and currents. Edited by Turpin on 07/09/10 - 9:09 PM 1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
LabCab	#9  Posted on 07/09/10 - 9:17 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 100 Comments: 7 Joined: 01/17/09	This Shoreland'r is much like the 1983 Highlander trailer my 13' is on. Most 13's seem to have similar trailers. I rebuilt and repainted mine so I now notice trailers! [url] http://www.shorelandr.com/pages/t_specs.aspx?type=&productID=1751[/url]