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How to drill hole in bottom of boat?
nosek
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/10 - 3:43 PM
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New to this site..and Boston Whaler

I am planning on drilling a hole in the floor of the CC cabinet of my Dauntless 150 for the purpose of feeding water to a bait pump and a wash down pump.
I know about the foam.
What if I drill a 3/4" hole all the way thru to the bottom of the boat. Attach a high speed thru hull pick up with a 3/4" brass pipe long enough to come thru the foam and thru the floor into the CC cabinet where I would then attach a brass washer and nut to hold it tight. Also from below I would 5200 the high speed thru hull and screw it also to the bottom of the boat. This should give it a very secure water pick up without damaging the strength of the hule.
What do you think?
Thanks for any input.....
Nosek


Edited by nosek on 07/08/10 - 3:44 PM
 
DWinter
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/10 - 4:39 PM
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You're on the right track and Fishinliar has given you excellent info. The only thing I would add is, most late model whalers have specific areas made for thru-hulls and I can't remember exactly where it is on the 15 Dauntless. I'm pretty sure there is an area near the back in the bilge where the top cap and the outer hull is very close together for just this purpose. I know the bigger Outrages have one under the helm, I can't remeber if yours does or not. The other consideration is, mounting it too far forward can result in loss of pick-up when the boat is trimmed out on a plane. if mounted within a few inches from the keel, you're probably okay, just check before cutting. You may also consider Life Caulk for bedding the thru-hull because if you ever have to change it out, 5200 will normally require some type of cutting because it will not release. On all the installs like this I did while working as a Whaler rigger, we used either Life Caulk or the factory uses sikkoflex. Life caulk actually cures faster underwater and if necessary can be removed without a jackhammer. Don't get me wrong, 5200 is great stuff but I prefer LC in this type of application here you may have to remove and replace it one day. (Trust me, I speak from experience on this one). And be liberal with it too. Better to have to wipe some away than find out you missed an area when it leaks.

And also welcome aboard. Lots of good folks and good info here.


Edited by DWinter on 07/08/10 - 4:50 PM
Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
 
Guts
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/10 - 8:53 PM
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This might help, it is the way I did my thru hull transducer, also what DWinter said "most late model whalers have specific areas made for thru-hulls" One note here when using large amounts of resin it will get Hot , use small amounts and build up slowly, i used some color on the last poor.

http://airmartechnology.com/uploads/i...%20r02.pdf


Guts/AKA/Kim
 
Meridian
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/10 - 7:45 AM
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Brass won't do due to corrosion and/or electrolysis potential problems. Use bronze or better yet try Marelon valves.

 
DWinter
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Posted on 07/09/10 - 3:39 PM
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Thats a good point Meridian, but honestly I haven't seen brass fittings in years, I bet he meant bronze. The Marlon (sp) is good stuff too.


Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
 
nosek
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/09/10 - 5:13 PM
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Do you think that I will have a problem picking up water with the thru hull when planing / boat is moving if the thru hull is located below the CC of my Dauntless 150?


Edited by nosek on 07/09/10 - 5:55 PM
 
DWinter
#7 Print Post
Posted on 07/10/10 - 4:04 AM
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If it is mounted too far out from the keel, definately.


Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console
 
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