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Dave, the gunwale board looks great! The satin finish sets it off nicely. Would like to see more pics of the project. I'll be doing my fiberglass gunwale boards this fall. The ply core is dryrotted and don't want them to break.
Thanks Thom, I used the Sikkens Cetol Marine. Holds up very well. I'll see if I can get some more pic's.
Yes Howard, I'm sure it looks like we're splitting hairs fussing with the extra 5 degrees. I'm not a finish carpenter by a long shot, and spent a fair amount of time getting all the details from the old gunwales. I've found out the hard way what seems like a small detail is usually there for a reason, and if skipped will make itself painfully evident at some point. In retrospect, I don't think this is one of those, but figured it couldn't hurt to ask...
I think it also shows the commitment to finish quality BW had back then as it seems it would have been easier for them to just route a straight 90 degree. All that being said, I'm glad I included that detail.
Dave, did you use a sealer caulking between the fiberglass and the new gunwale boards? Reason I ask is that with mahagony, it does have a tendancy to rot and, you put alot of time and effort in the project for it to not last.
I debated that Thom, but eventually decided against it. I coated all sides of the mahogany with the Sikkens before installing and I think that will help. Figured if I ever have to remove the gunwales again, it'll be much easier without caulking, and the factory didn't use any originally.
Also wanted to add that measuring the overall length of each gunwale before cutting the wood is recommended as my lengths were different enough to be significant.
All molds have to have a draft, (the 5 degrees), to them or the part will not seperate from it. We spent a lot of time making sure there wasn't any "zero to negative draft" in the molds, it can ruin a mold and a what should be a good day, (new boat!), in a heartbeat. Whenever I drew optional gun'l bds. they always had the draft added in on the interior face, and I'm sure if an assembly needed 5 degrees in the old days it was cut that way, I have old drawings with those details on them..... And yes, measure everything about each side. Because it was all done by hand and by several people, variations will exist. It's the nature of putty, fiberglass, and hand sanding....
As sort of a final word on the subject, the rabbet in the coaming board is best cut at about a 94 or 95 degree angle. This is best accomplished by shimming the coaming board up about 1/4" on a router table. This will give you the required angle. It is very important to do this if you want the coaming board to match the angle of the sides of the boat. Cutting them at 90 degrees, and trying to fudge the match will not work.
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
