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Outrage Gunwale Detail
Derwd24	#1  Posted on 06/22/10 - 9:06 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Pulled the old gunwales off my 22 in prep for building new ones. As I was measuring, noticed that the coaming board isn't perpendicular to the gunwale board as I had assumed. It measures about 95 degrees in what I assume was an effort to follow the angle of the interior sides. Can anyone confirm? Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Blackduck	#2  Posted on 06/23/10 - 6:43 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Makes sense to me, as very little on a molded fiberglass boat is square or uniform. You have to fit each boat as they are unique, and being off 5 degrees is square. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Blackduck	#3  Posted on 06/23/10 - 7:24 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	When the coaming board is attached to the cover board, it is just screwed, not glued. You can adjust it to fit the sides of the boat. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Derwd24	#4  Posted on 06/23/10 - 8:43 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Thanks for the reply Walter. I originally pulled the gunwales off and sighted from each end to see the rabbet joint, they were all very tight which is part of why I assumed they were 90 degrees. I'm wondering now how they accomplished the extra 5 degrees, and how I can do the same? Wondering if maybe they used a tilted dado blade on a table saw or a shim set up on a router? Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Blackduck	#5  Posted on 06/23/10 - 9:31 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Maybe they cut that notch at 95 degrees rather than 90, but I doubt it. They didn't tend to fit with such detail. They were not afraid to leave large allowances for fitting, the spacing of the gunwale boards, for example. I think it would be just to much work to cut at 95, rather than 90, for BW to have even considered doing it, but anything is possible. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Derwd24	#6  Posted on 06/23/10 - 9:43 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	I figured they had a jig set up and just milled them all at 95 given the angle of the sides in the Outrage... I did a test rabbet with a 3/4" router bit and the fit to the new gunwale board is super tight, so maybe I'll just do 2 passes to open up the rabbet a bit, and angle the edge of the gunwale board to 95 and that'll hold the profile. (woodworking is not my forte!) Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Blackduck	#7  Posted on 06/23/10 - 10:05 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	You could just shim up the coaming board, and rout it out at that angle. The depth would be uneven, but I guess that does not really mater. It would make for a stronger joint than opening up the width. I am doing the gunwales on a 18' next week. It will be interesting to see if I run into the same situation. Edited by Blackduck on 09/13/10 - 10:00 AM Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Blackduck	#8  Posted on 06/24/10 - 5:23 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	I checked the !8' Outrage that I am doing the gunwales on, and found the top of the boat, where the top board rests, to be at a 90 degree angle to the inside of the boat, exact. This is what I would expect to find, as the Boston Whaler designers were aware they would be capping this area with teak, and why create a milling problem for a few degrees. When checking this, go by your boat, and not the old gunwale units. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Derwd24	#9  Posted on 06/24/10 - 8:58 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Right, the side immediately under the gunwale is a 90 degree, but I was referring to, and I think they were attempting to match, the area just forward of the gunwale to make the look "flow" as you move from fiberglass to wood on the vertical sides. Checked that angle on my hull and the it is greater than 90... I see your point about creating a milling problem, but if your 18 had the original teak gunwales on them and you've pulled them off, you'll see a number of custom (what look like hand due to the uneven nature) cuts on the underside of both the coaming and flat gunwale boards at the front. I tried to take some pic's but couldn't capture the detail on the underneath side of the darkened weathered wood. Given that and the detail at the back end of the gunwale, something tells me they were used to spending some time milling fitting these. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Blackduck	#10  Posted on 06/25/10 - 7:16 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	The gel coat tends to have high spots at the end of an area, or when a turn is made. Such is the case in the front, where the step down for the teak begins. You have to ease the underside of your cover boards to get them to lay flat against the top of the boat. The whole job is rather tricky, and yes, you will have to make a few adjustments now and then. I would make some of the cuts in pine first, to practice. I would make the complete front piece out of pine first, to make sure if fits properly. With what teak cost, no mistakes are allowable. Edited by Blackduck on 06/25/10 - 1:18 PM Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Blackduck	#11  Posted on 07/02/10 - 10:32 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Dave- How are your gunwales coming along? Walter Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Derwd24	#12  Posted on 07/15/10 - 5:02 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Hi Walter, They came out pretty well thanks, made them out of mahogany and finally managed to get a pic to post. How are yours coming? Dave [img]http://whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/4535/Gunwale_640x480.jpg[/img] Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Joe Kriz	#13  Posted on 07/15/10 - 5:04 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Looks good. I do miss your personal page though.
Derwd24	#14  Posted on 07/15/10 - 6:19 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Thanks Joe, I'll see if I can get some better pic's and put it back up soon. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Joe Kriz	#15  Posted on 07/15/10 - 6:57 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11434 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Dave, I liked all the work you did on the railing bases etc. to get your boat fixed up... I thought it was helpful to all of us...
Blackduck	#16  Posted on 07/16/10 - 7:21 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Dave They look real nice. How did you handle the 95 degree angle on the coaming board? I've checked a few more boats, and yes, they are all at least a few degrees more than 90. I wish I had an old board to see wether or not the slot was cut at slight angle , or not. Walter Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
HarleyFXDL	#17  Posted on 07/16/10 - 8:43 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	Dave, was there any reason why you didn't use teak instead of mahogany? What was the price difference? I am considering installing new wood on my gunwales and was thinking about price. Kevin 1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp. If you think education is expensive, try ignorance "Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
Blackduck	#18  Posted on 07/16/10 - 8:55 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	Kevin Using Philippine mahogany will cost you about $100. Using teak will run you about $500. Walter Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
Derwd24	#19  Posted on 07/16/10 - 11:13 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Kevin, Howard's right on with price. The mahogany I used was closer to $170 (I went with 4 full length boards to eliminate the 2 pieces and seam in the middle of the flat wide board). The teak cost was just too steep given this isn't close to a showroom condition boat. The mahogany is a decent substitute and looks great, but there is something about the teak.... Howard, I did use a shim under the router to approach the extra 5 degrees when I was cutting the rabbet. Do you know if the newer fiberglass gunwales are true 90? Unfortunately the original teak gunwales were sanded to within an inch of their life (including both visible sides of the coaming board), and I can't determine whether the rabbet was angled or not. If you can think of a way, I'd be glad to check. Also curious if anyone knows if there's wood in the tops of the sides for the gunwale fasteners to screw into or did they just go into the fiberglass and foam originally? There's no indication of any on the wood locating diagram, but there's also no indication of wood being located under the bases for the bowrails, and I know from opening it up on mine that there is wood in there for the rail base fasteners to screw into. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
Blackduck	#20  Posted on 07/16/10 - 11:33 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	The glass gunwales are about 95 degrees. The wood versions seems to be between 93 degrees up to 95. People reading this will think were nuts over a few degrees, but you are right in that the coaming board's rabbet keeps the boards more or less ate the angle it is cut at, no room to fudge. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha