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What wood works best ?
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 7:42 AM
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Just wondering about the properties of wood that will work best for my restorations.
I have Mahogany, Teak and White Oak and can use and build with any of them. What wood would be best for the runners under my center console? I think there is a difference where the wood will be in places that don't get full drying most of the time. I like the Teak for the hatch doors and seat back and other parts that get wet and then dry. I wonder about the wood that is on the floor and will probably stay wet a lot. I have blocks under the Z brackets of my seat and the runners my CC is raised with that need replacing. I also have wood strips on the sides that the fishing platform attached to and all are rotten. Does anyone have ideas of what wood will be best?
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 7:45 AM
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Teak will be much more rot resistant and durable than Mahogany or White Oak.
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 8:06 AM
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Thanks Tom. The reason I tossed the White Oak in there is they seem to use this wood a lot for building piers and docks along the eastern sea coast.
Gary
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 8:55 AM
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Yes, because it was plentiful in American forests 100 years ago.
(Most) Teak came from Burma (now known as The Union of Myanmar).
Have you priced Teak lately?
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 9:09 AM
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Yes Tom and that is another part of why I am asking. I have a few boards of Teak and Mahogany that I've had for years but plenty of quarter sawn white oak that I often build furniture with. I'll be saving any teak out of necessity.
Gary
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 9:52 AM
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Yeah, I certainly would not waste valuable Teak for the console mounting cleats. White Oak or Mahogany will both work; Whaler used Mahogany originally and would be preference between the two.
But I would try not to use wood of any sort. Use a synthetic lumber instead. 5/4 Trex decking would work well. It won't rot and the cleats are not visible so the appearance is much less important.
Actually, the old wooden cleat mounting of the Montauk console was a system that tended to fail with time, usually when the screws holding the cleats to the floor pulled out and the whole console would come loose.
In 1983 Whaler went to a system of aluminum angle bolted to the outsides of the console shell. These angles were screwed to the floor with large diameter #14 sheet metal screws and there were seven of them on each side.
Because the lateral spacing of those screws was increased by several inches, the console was not able to exert as much uplifting force and was MUCH less likely to lever the screws from the floor.
You could retrofit this system if you wanted to.
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 11:38 AM
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Great info Tom and thank you. I started another thread about what is under the floor where the CC attaches. Many of the SS screws had no hold at all in what ever is below the deck floor. The angle aluminum could be an option or possibly some type of anchor bolts that spread below the deck but would allow removal. I do have some UHMW plastic left over from another project that will be perfect for this job once I figure an attachment plan.
Gary
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| Guts |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 2:14 PM
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I have some BUBINGA wood on my boat and have used it on other boats when I need a strong piece to run screws in. works well around water, and if you plan to screw into it they hold very well ! Not soft wood at all. here is a link; with fact sheet.
http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/wo...ubinga.htm
Edited by Guts on 06/22/10 - 2:16 PM
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 3:16 PM
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I used Teak wihen I did mine and have no regrets at all and have been very pleased with the durability of the finish
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 3:27 PM
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All of the exotic woods are ridiculously pricey these days. Teak is out of the question as a runner to go between the CC and the floor at between $30-40 per board foot unless this piece I think is teak really is. Many years ago I used a lot of these woods in various projects and still have some left but I honestly cannot ID the piece I think is teak.
I would prefer to use the teak where it can be seen rather than where it cannot. I still have to figure a way to get some grip below the glass decking where the old screws have stripped out.
gary
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| ioptfm |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 6:20 PM
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Gamalot wrote:
. I still have to figure a way to get some grip below the glass decking where the old screws have stripped out.
gary
Not sure exactly where you are referring to for stripped screws, but I have found this worked good for me. Insert an allen/hex wrench into a drill and then insert the small end into the stripped out hole. Carefully run the drill to open up the stripped area under the fiberglass. Then inject a filler into the hole....let it cure............redrill a small hole and set your screw. I used gorilla glue and it worked great, but there are many others that would also work. It you choose gorilla glue be sparing as it really expands.
Tom
1979 Sport 15' |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 6:52 PM
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Thanks ioptfm. I used gorilla glue twice and can't think of a good thing to say of the stuff.
My center console fastens in to the floor with large wood screws and the sub floor below the no skid is stripped out. The plywood under is likely rotted from water getting in the unsealed holes for many years.
I will be raising it a few inches with either wood or a composite material and will fill the old holes and drill new ones in this material and then fasten the CC to it in the correct location. I have the fishing/storage platform with my boat so the CC must stay exactly where it was and i can't just move if an inch or so to get a better grip in a new hole. I also have to be careful raising the CC because that platform fits just one way with very little wiggle room.
Gary
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| Binkie |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 7:09 PM
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(I used gorilla glue twice and can't think of a good thing to say of the stuff.)
It always works well for me, I`ve used it in alot of situations including the one mentioned above. Did you activate the glue by wetting the joint with water before applying the glue, and then immediately clamping it after gluing? I can`t think of any reasons why it didn`t work for you, if you followed directions. It also holds screws as well or better than hardwood.
Rich |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 7:21 PM
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I don't disagree Binki and i am sure it has a useful purpose. I used it building cabinets and moistened the wood as directed. It is a great glue but near impossible to clean up afterward and no stain will take on it. It just made my job twice as hard and I don't like the stuff because of the way it expands when curing. Don't get it on your hands or clothing either.
There are much better glues for this purpose and for fine cabinetmaking. I do agree it is strong stuff and possibly too strong in many ways.
Gary
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| Binkie |
Posted on 06/22/10 - 7:42 PM
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No it is too dense to take stain, but who stains their mahogany or teak on their Whaler anyway. It was presented in this situation as a means to hold screws under the glass deck. You also could use thickened epoxy inserted into the enlarged hole, and that would make a mess on your hands and clothes too, if you were`nt careful. You can`t wipe of the excess as it is hardening. You let it cure and then sand the joint with an orbital sander. You soon learn to be careful with the amount you use.
Rich |
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