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Your wiring description is mostly correct. but not complete. All of the classic 13'-17' Whalers are easy and simple to rewire. The Blue Seas 6 gang fuse block, in either glass or blade fuse style, is a key component. Switched fuse panels are not necessary in small open boats like this. Here is one of mine, part of complete re-wiring of a classic Outrage 19: (and with much more circuits than a 13 would need)

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...5789598855

Mount the fuse block somewhere out of view under the mahogany console, but where you can access and see the fuses.

The "house" wiring should be as follows for a 13'-17' Whaler:

1. There should be a 30 amp in-line fuse holder in the (+) coming right off the battery post and under the box cover.

2. A 10 gauge Ancor two wire cable then runs to the fuse block. Now you have power at the console and ready for up to 6 separately fused branch circuits, in your case Nav lights, bilge, GPS. power plug, horn, and maybe radio (if it does not have an in-line fuse holder of it's own). Out of these, only the Nav lights need a different configuration. The others simply connect to the (+) coming off the switch and (-) of the fuse block.

3.. Nav lights use the battery as the neg ground, not all the way back to the fuse block. On these Whalers, with bow light wiring running in the rubrail and coming thru the hull in the stern corner where the stern light pole and battery are located, there should be a small junction box which houses a 4 gang terminal strip. See here on my Montauk:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1363279076

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1755290583

3. From the nav switch, you have two (+) wires running back to the light terminal block in the stern, one for bow lights, and one for stern light. Use a 2 cable 16 gauge ancor cable for this.
Now you have switched (+) for the llight connections.

4. To complete the Nav circuit, you need a short 16 gauge run back to the battery neg post. You can do this either with a separate black wire tied to the Ancor cable, or as I did, run the switched cable into the battery box, and splice on a short length of three wire cable to run up to the terminal block. In the photo, the neg is the top connection, the stern light is the 2nd and the bow light the 3rd. The 4th is not used. If there is a compass, on the smaller boats I recommend connecting it so the light comes on with the running lights - a separate compass switch is rarely needed, if at all.

5. The matching desert tan junction box is available from Twin Citites for a few bucks. It has to be drilled and notched as necessary. It completely covers where the bow light wires come throu the hull. For the stern light connector, I highly recommend the two wire "trailer style" flat connector.

With this type of wiring, you do not need those separate panel mount fues holders under each switch, a much more complicated and cluttered wiring configuration. Nor do you have the old style buss bar Whaler used to use. On the dash, you simply have the push-pull calssic switches. Like this:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1178143888

The four switches are Nav/Compass, Courtesey lighting, auto-Bilge pump override on-off, and horn.