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If your teak is just faded out then the little black spots are most likely mildew. Simple fix - dillute some bleach 50-50 and wash down with a SOFT brush so as to minimize the wood loss. Let sit for about 5 minutes in the sun then wash off generously with fresh water. Let dry thoroughly. Then wash down generously w/Acetone (wear rubber gloves) to remove any moisture and oils. You're now at the point of decision on sanding. If the surface is truly smooth (fingernails don't catch on grooves, no real ridges on fingertips - you'll be able to tell), then a very light sanding with 220 or finer grit will do just to give an adhesive surface. If it is rougher than you'd like, start with a 100 and work your way to a minimum of 220. Same as before, wash down w/ water, dry, then Acetone. You are now ready for you surface protection of choice.

I've taken all the teak on our whaler down like this and then applied West System expoxy, at least 3 layers totally encapsolating the wood. This seals all moisture from entering, which is what removes any protection you apply. Thus the Acetone preps to make sure there's no moisture before sealing the teak w/West System. Dillute the 1st application 30-40% with thinner and soak the teak good, then run over with a squegee to force deep into any cracks, etc. Then your next 2-3 coats, sanding in between. As such, you will have a beautiful surface. I then apply 3-4 coats of Epiphanes Woodfinish High Gloss. As long as you do it within 72 hours, there's NO SANDING between coats...a huge advantage in time and effort. What this does is allows you to go back once per year, burnish the surface and apply a couple of coats of the Epiphanes and you're done for another year, versus sanding down to bare wood each year, etc. A lot of effort initially, but do it right and the maintenance is great. You can look at our personal page for the results. Best shot may be of the rear seat (ex-swim platform) that I did last year. Good Luck