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Hello All- While I wait for my new rubrail to come in should I be filling the existing rubrail holes or try to use the same ones with a larger fastner? I was thinking that filling would allow for smoother installation as I would not have to worry about lining up the new and old holes?

1974 13' Sport

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Fill the old holes with 3M 5200, and drill new holes , for rivets , to attach new rub rail.

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I doubt the holes will line up again anyways

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I would fill, but I don't think I would use 5200, I would use some type of a filler, not an adhesive. I might use Evercoat Formula 27 instead.

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Use Evercoat or Marinet-tex but not 5200

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I actually used gorilla glue and then put painters tape over it for he next morning i sanded the old holes with 1000 grit sandpaper. It is completely smooth and waterprrof. Just remember that the glue expand about 300%!

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I am in the process of preparing my 15 sport for a new rubrail and I decided to use thickened epoxy. I felt that I could avoid the old holes (when installing the new rubrail) on the sides of the boat but when you get to the curved part near the bow, the rivets (or screws) are too close to one another to avoid.

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use a filler not 5200. also, lay a tape measure on the gunnel as you go around with the new rivets. that way you can go every 6 inches exactly and its a much neater job. using the old holes even in the curve is a mistake. there is plenty of room to make new and equal spacing makes it lay much better. that is how a mechanic works, not guessing what to do.

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Why not use 5200? It will fill the holes and keep them watertight, fillers like evercoat will crack out over time. Sure, an epoxy would work, but a lot more work than squeezing something out of a tube. And isn't this all hidden behind the new rub rail? I have more important things to obsess over than how some hidden holes are filled, as long as they are watertight. Yes, I am annoyed that advice I gave, accepted installation procedures, are being questioned. and called wrong, by implication, at minimum. Not fair to me, or to the poor guy who I gave the advice to.

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I don't see why you are so upset, it looks to me like people are giving advice on what they would do, just as you gave advice on what you would do. I think filling with a filler is a better method because if for some reason you end up needing to use an area near a hole you "filled" then it will have more structural integrity. I would use 3M premium filler with fiberglass strands.

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I am upset because the other posters gave no acknowledgment that the other guys way might be okay. My way is not wrong. It is not the only way, but not wrong. By saying, I wouldn't use 5200, or don't use 5200. it implies I have misled the thread originator. I have not. Respect for the other guys opinion is important, lack of such is why a lot of bright people don't post. By the way, mark the old filled holes with tape, and drill your new rivet holes in between, this avoids any structural issues.

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Mr. Reynolds,

By saying, "I wouldn't use 5200" I meant "I wouldn't use 5200." It is up to you what to use. I have not used 5200 for that type of thing, nor do I know how it would hold up over time, maybe quite well. I would not want to put twice as many holes under my rubrail, why not fill and then redrill in the same spot after cure? But to each his own. What I do know is that 5200 is an adhesive, not a filler, and due to its properties my advice would be not to use something on a repair for which it was not intended. This had nothing to do with respect or lack thereof. When you say "Respect for the other guys opinion is important, lack of such is why a lot of bright people don't post." Do you mean that only dummies post? I think not, but it is a similar inference to the one you drew about my reply. I won't get into my academic credentials but I hope my response verifies that bright people do, in fact, post.

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John,

I know of no practical way of lining up the old holes in the boat with the new, to be drilled, holes in the receiver. That is why most people abandon the old holes and drill new. Saying that 5200 is not the right product for this purpose is the kind of statements that I think should be avoided, my opinion.

By saying this, you are saying that Boston Whaler, and some of their most respected dealers, are giving out bad advice. 5200 was designed for applications such as this.

I am not implying that only dummies give advice here, but that some good people have been turned off by others. I guess I have to much time on my hands today, and really should let this go, but-

Walter

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We all have our methods. 5200 is not mine. That DOES NOT mean my way is the only way, it only means that I would tend not to use that product due to the nature of the product and the nature of the repair. The point of filling with a filler and re-drilling is that once it is cured, it matters not if you line up perfectly. It is great if you do because then you have one set of holes, if you don't line up, you still have, that's right, one set of holes. With that said, perhaps we should bury this debate. I am sure you have had success with 5200, no? I have had success with Evercoat 27. I will fold and say that either may be a viable option depending on your own preference.

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Too funny........Im glad your not my dad! Maybe you should change your name to blackcloud. You remind me of a guy i knew when i was little. I grew up,............I dont know what happened to him. LOL!

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Almost everything I read before I did my rub rail (flexible vinyl with insert) said to use 5200. After removing the old rail and cleaning off old sealant, I filled the holes with 5200 as recommended. I was able to let it set and fully cure as the kit I purchased was short screws and end caps so I had to wait anyway. I'm glad I waited, it all set up rock solid so there was no worry about overlapping an old hole. A bead of 5200 was put down on the screw line, and the new rail was drilled and screwed. I put some 5200 in each screw hole before setting as well, maybe overkill with the bead already down but I feel as if you can't be too careful considering the sealant/adhesive/setting benefits gained from the 5200. Just clean it up good before it starts to set or you'll wind up living with it wherever it messed. If you're that worried about possibly doing this again, use 4200 for the bead all the way around that the rail will sit on. I don't see where any old 5200 remaining would be a major hindrance in a future replacement of a new identical replacement.

Do not try to use the old holes. Aside from it being impossible to line up, they may be a bit too big to reset screws in. The new holes will fasten more snugly and be exactly where you need them. I've seen new rub rail installed right after the old holes were filled with 5200 as well, but I'd think you'd wind up with a screw or three that overlaps an old hole and doesn't set perfectly.

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Thank you all for the information. I decided to inject MarineTex with a syringe into all of the rivet holes and then sanded smooth with random orbital palm sander. Worked out great and did not take very long.

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I used WEST Systems marine epoxy thickened with their #403 Microfibers. I got an irrigating syringe from local medical supply and injected each hole. If hole was too big I used wooden dowel (got the dowel stock ~ four feet long, appropriate diameter at Home Depot) to fill the larger holes. I dipped the dowel into epoxy mixture, tapped it into the hole flush, injected some if I could and/or used a plastic putty knife to fill holes entirely. Once cured I would use belt sander or whatever made sense to smooth things up.

Best advantage is once epoxy is cured it's bomb proof, it will hold screws. I would think 5200 slow cure rate would drive me nuts. Someday, I'll get the rub rail installed - better be this year.

Good luck

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Just wanted to circle back and report that the rubrail installation went great. I could smell the MarineTex when the drill bit met a repaired hole, the rivets held tight in these areas with no issues.

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Replacing the rub rail on my '87 15' SS will be one of my winter projects. I am curious, where did you buy the rub rail and what type/size rivets did you use?

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I ordered from Twin Cities Marine, a sponsor of this site. I'm not sure about the rivet size right now, but they were provided with the rubrail. You can also opt for screws if you like.

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Where did you buy your new rub rail.

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You fill fill carefully with a vinylester 3M filler all of those holes and sand down flush.
For the new rubrail installation,I would use stainless screws to fasten.
Do not forget to caulk all the fasteners for insulation purposes before tracking the rubber.

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I will need to replace rub rail also (when the weather is warmer) and would like to use screws, not rivets. Can anyone suggest screw size, head style, etc...that works/looks nice.

Tx, Bill

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C'mon, the disagreement was over, no need to resuscitate it. There is no need for this comment.

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Kevin, If you look at the date which this comment was written, you'll see that the argument has been over since June.
Haha....Happy New Years bro!

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Thank GOD! Happy new year to you to Cliff.

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If you order from Twin Cities they include the necessary screws.

John K.