Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Replacing Screws and Filling Holes

Posted by hornets77 on 05/31/09 - 4:56 PM
#1

I have an '82 13' sport in which I need to replace basically all of the mounting screws for the deck rail, seat mounts, steering console, and stern light. I want to drill out and then fill all of the screw holes because I think that water has penetrated into the boat. My question is what type of filler should I use? I have heard things like MarineTex or 3M 5200 but which one is best?
Thanks to all for this forum.
Robert

Posted by modenacart on 05/31/09 - 5:02 PM
#2

I like the 3M filler because you can gelcoat over it and its easily sanded.

Posted by hornets77 on 05/31/09 - 5:22 PM
#3

Ok that sounds good does the fast curing stuff work any better or is the regular stuff ok?

Posted by modenacart on 05/31/09 - 5:57 PM
#4

The 3M filler is not the 5200. The 5200 is more like a caulk.

The link is what I was talking about. You just mix up what you need.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/...lassNum=96

Posted by ioptfm on 05/31/09 - 6:09 PM
#5

If you are referring to areas that are foam backed, then you need to get a small allen wrench......insert the long end in a drill and the short end in the hole and slowly rotate it to get all of the loose particles of foam out. Then I used gorilla glue to fill the holes for the new screws. If you do this method, be sparing with the Gorilla Glue as it really EXPANDS!

Posted by hornets77 on 05/31/09 - 6:34 PM
#6

Ah ok thank you both the information is very helpful to someone who is new at working on whalers.
Robert

Posted by MW on 05/31/09 - 6:49 PM
#7

Last year, I drilled out the old screw holes (made bottom of hole wider than the top). I coated "pre-cut to length dowels" in "Marine Tex" and inserted. Then I dabbed some marine tex over the hole and wiped clean with a rag and mineral spirits, I let dry over night. I Drilled a small pilot hole into the dowel when the "Marine tex" dryed, I screwed back in the "Railing", It's still "Rock solid" !

Posted by Seafarer on 06/01/09 - 4:29 AM
#8

MW wrote:
Last year, I drilled out the old screw holes (made bottom of hole wider than the top). I coated "pre-cut to length dowels" in "Marine Tex" and inserted. Then I dabbed some marine tex over the hole and wiped clean with a rag and mineral spirits, I let dry over night. I Drilled a small pilot hole into the dowel when the "Marine tex" dryed, I screwed back in the "Railing", It's still "Rock solid" !


Are "You" at all "Concerned" that "Wood" might "Rot" if "Water" gets in the "Dowel" "Holes" "Past" the "Sealant" at "Some" point in the "Future?"

I've got some railing screws to attend to and am unsure if doweling or epoxy filling is the way to go.

Posted by MW on 06/01/09 - 9:16 AM
#9

I have no concern's as the "Marine tex" has "Encapsulated" the dowel, preventing water getting in, and it can't split. It also can't come out due to the Wider bottom of the "Drill" hole I put in before inserting the dowel.

Posted by modenacart on 06/01/09 - 5:54 PM
#10

Some claim Marine Tex has problems with gelcoat sticking to it if you want to patch the gelcoat. That is why I like the 3M premium filler because it specially states you can gelcoat over it on the package. I am not sure how strong it is, but its really easy to work with. I think there is also a version with glass fibers in it that is much stronger.

Posted by MW on 06/02/09 - 2:02 AM
#11

I should have pointed out that I didn't Gel-coat over the repair, it is covered by the side rail when re-installed.