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Anyone in Southern NJ have a flaring tool I may borrow? I have a 1987 17' Montauk that requires drain tube replacement in the splashwell. I'm all new to this. The Whaler store I purchased the pipes said no need for o-rings on the other end, and to flare the other end w/hammer. Obviously he's never seen me use a hammer.

I mentioned the corroded pieces have o-rings on both ends and flared on both ends. He mentioned it was done wrong-but I have a feeling these are the originals.

Either way, before I gump up the project, can anyone help me out?

I can be reached at AIRSAV@comcast.net

Thanks

Sorry if this a re-post

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I can help you out - I will send you an email.

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You can do with or without the o-rings. When I replaced mine, one end was already flared and I didn't use o-rings. I used 5200 to seal it. After the tube was in place, I used a ball pen hammer to flare the other end while my wife kept the tube in place with a sledge and her foot on the other end.. It worked out really well.

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I just did this,

use the O rings and sealant. 4200 or 5200.

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Here is an excellent article on this subject and use of the tool. I have not modified mine yet so its still like the one in the top picture - I did buy the air hammer but like most projects in my garage its on the back burner.

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=42

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O-rings are not a must, there are quality shipbuilders that do not use o-rings and don't have problems. The choice is yours to do what you want.

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I used the EPDM (Ethylene Propylene) O-rings from McMaster-Carr when I did all 8 tubes on my Outrage, and used the modified air tool per the article, came out great.

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Thanks for all your assistance. I've returned to the Whaler dealer and purchased more 0-rings (for both ends) and have cleaned the drain holes out while they dry in the sun. Looks like I'll have some assistance w/the tool-then back in business. Thanks again.

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How do you get the old copper tubing out?

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If it's in bad shape, it'll all but fall out. First, bend the flare on one end back in so it's smaller than the tube diameter and give a pull at the other end with a pair of pliers. If not, you want to try and push or bend the outer section of the tube in towards the middle. Start at say 3 o'clock position with a screwdriver, and push the outer edge in towards the middle. Try and work your way down the outside length of the tube towards the other end, staying at the 3 o'clock position. You have to be careful not to hit the hull. Once you get it bent in from one end to the other, the overall diameter will decrease and it should pull right out.

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Now all I need to do is get the flaring tool, any idea where to get one? Can I rent yours Scott?

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You are welcome to borrow it Kevin - Just let me know when you are ready for it. Obviously it will be out on loan this week but when it gets back I will shoot you a PM.

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You're the man Scott!

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A huge thank you goes out to Scott. A seasoned Whaler owner and a real nice guy. Thanks again for your assistance!

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The pleasure was all mine. That's a really nice Montauk you have. Take good care of her and she will last you forever. Of course as you know it never hurts to own a few more. :D

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Any comments on how hard or EZ it was to do the tubes? That is one of my next projects. It seems to me that the hardest one will be the long main hull tube??

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We only did the the main splashwell tubes at this time - It wasnt hard. Just make sure you have the right tools available. Basically you will need the tubing, The O rings, 3m5200, the flaring tool, wrenches and or sockets for the flaring tool, a small ruler, a marker and a tubing cutter. EDIT - Also a Torch to anneal the tube.

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Did you use a torch to anneal the ends?

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That was my next question. I have everything ready to go, just trying to find the time....
I ordered everything from Sue at Twin Cities last year.

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When I did my tubes, I used a torch and tried to limit the heating to the last 1/4" or so of the tube. If I remember correctly, it doesn't matter if you let it air cool or quench it with water after heating. I used the modified air hammer and found that if I heated too much of the end, it would produce a "bulge" in the tube about an inch in. Don't know if this is an issue with using the tool manually or not.

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Yes - I am sorry - forgot to mention the torch.... yes I annealed the end before flaring. I quenched it. No bulge noticed - I think its created by the air hammer as you work it around vs the bolt method is consitant inward pressure without movement. Just a guess though.

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How long do you heat it for??

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I heated it till it discolored a little bit - It didnt seem long at all but it did sizzle when run under water. I am by no means an expert so I may be wrong - I just did what I fealt was right.