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1983 Outrage 18,bow eye worked itself loose and damaged the hull/fiberglass oround it(while on the trailer). I purchased a new D ring and threaded rod. Its a structural /stress area,so whats the best way of repairing it. I would like to fill the space where the rod passes through the hull(with the rod passing through it) to provide some strength and cover up the exposed foam and then appropiately repair the outside where the D ring/lifting ring sits on the hull. There are some pics on my homepage of the damage. Thanks.
Jerry

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Jerry, I am currently redoing my 83 Montauk. My bow eye worked loose and rounded out the hole. My damage is far less than yours but I also bought a new 2 bolt D eye with the landing plate welded. I am reinforcing that area with extra glass, creating a new landing area for it and filling everything else. I will be posting pics over the next 2 weeks that include that repair as well. You can see the damage on my project page. Not a lot of help but I think the 2 bolt D eye is the way to go for longevity and durability.

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98 daunt...you have your work cutout for you. always remember that this is the tow point as well as the loading point. anything you do at this location is important. i am not familiar with the dauntless, but my '87 montauk is thru bolted wherein the D rods thru to the eye within the boat.



bottomfish...i thing that a thru bolt on the mountauk is better than a 2 bolt plate unless the 2 bolt is thru bolted.

i am in the process of replacing my D and eye just recently. some of my questions are posted. i made a seat of acrylic/plastic sheet to cover the front damage as well as give a new foundation for the D to sit on. i also have done similar to the interior at the eye to spread the weight around when using this tow/load point. naturally i have to replace the S/S rod due to these backers being installed, as to lenthen it.

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tommy mc ,I used to have a dauntless. the boat I am referring to is a 1983 outrage 18 which is through bolted,I posted the questionbecause I am concerned that it is a high stress point,I was considering a ss plate on the inside ring together with fully filling the enthir hole the ss rod passes through with some epoxy resin,with a stress plate on the outside bow D ring. where on LI are you ,Im in Port Washington.

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in2deep...
lindenhurst
the thru bolt is best but im not to sure how the SS plate on the in and out will look.
how about a SS fender washer
and on the outside...wouldnt the SSplate conflict with the hulls contour

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I did consider a large ss fender washer,probally cheaper and much easier to find,and yes the outside is proving/challenging to solve,the contour is difficult to match. I have seen a whaler with a custom ss plate on the outside and it wasent very attractive.

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The newer style bow eye can be installed on most all Whalers.

We have a photo of the newer style in the OEM Parts Photo section here:
Note the plate(s):
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=26

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Tommy, I am going to through bolt it. If you use the existing interior hole on the Montauk then using a homemade drill block you can make the second hole toward the bow. A backing plate on the interior and you have the original but with two. I am doing it next week and will post pics on my project page. FYI I had to buy 4" stainless studs and weld onto the D studs to make the 7+ inches through the hull. Going to be well worth the effort as I will smile many trouble free years from now.

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I tore the bow eye out of my 13 footer, becuase of a flexing tilt mechanism on my trailer, coming home from a 100 mile trip. Here is my photobucket repair pages. Just scroll down for a pictorial of how I repaired it to look better than new. I bought a stainless threaded rod at Home Depot to do the repair along with a mahogany donut that I made. I don`t know if this will help you on your 18 footer, but it might give you some ideas.
http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c19...%20repair/

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thanks for all the ideas,Ill probably use the factory threaded 10.5" ss rod,with a large ss fender washer on the inside lifting eye a bunch of resin with fiberglass fibers inside the void and the D ring on the outside. I jsut wish the outside D ring was sitting on a larger piece of metal to disperse the weight. Binkie,did you buy a tear swim platform and mod it to use as a stern platform? Great idea ,I want to make something similar for the bow of my outrage.

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Hey everyone, I bought In2Deep's Outrage last august and have been following his threads to see what has or hasn't been done. I have made many upgrades and repairs and love it. Here's my question. It seems like Jerry did not reglass under the D-ring on the boweye. I can hand turn it (which I know is not good). Does the D-ring just "sit" on what will be the refiberglassed/resin repair? Inboard there is the ss plate and lifting ring. Thanks for anyone help on this.