Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by SJ Striper on 04/04/05 - 5:28 PM

The 22 rage that I own has a full transom because of the WD. There are 3 teak hatches on the stern that are real weathered. One has a major crack. Also the floor hatch and the starboard bilge hatch is real beat up. The bilge hatch also has a big crack in it. The previous owner purchased Starboard for $300 and had milled to fit all openings. I would love to restore and reuse the teak. Any and all suggestions for repair/refinnish will be welcomed.

Thanks,
SJ.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 04/04/05 - 5:52 PM

Welcome Aboard SJ Striper,

First off I would like to mention that there is another model of Whaler called the Rage. So we don't confuse the models, as I was confused, let's call it by the proper name, OUTRAGE...

I do agree with cndwhaler as for saving the Teak. If you don't want the teak on the floor, then that is a possibility as the floor does take a beating. The other 3 hatches on top of your full transom in my mind, should be Teak. They look beautiful when finished properly, either oil or some type of varnish. If some pieces are cracked, then these can be replaced easy enough. If you can't do it yourself, then take it to a woodworker.

I have refinished many teak pieces and replaced many broken teak pieces.
Here is an example of teak gunwales:
http://users.sisqtel.net/jkriz/Gunwales//Gunwales/
You may or may not have the teak gunwales as some models had the fiberglass gunwales.

Here are some other projects on this site done by ratherwhalering. Many of us have done these same types of projects. Taking the wood apart, replacing any broken pieces, and then glueing the parts back together.
http://whalercentral.com/photogallery...?photo=270
This is a console door on many Montauk and Outrages.

Good luck and let us know when you get some photos posted.

Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/05/05 - 9:55 AM

Posted by Phil T on 04/05/05 - 7:19 AM

If the crack is the wood splitting (normal) I recommend you could do a repair from the back side.

One option is to place a cleat (strip of wood) on the underside that holds the two sides of the board together.

The bow locker in a Montauk uses 2 cleats to keep the boards together.

The key item is to get the 2 pieces as close together before screwing in the cleat. A pipe clamp would compress the wood and allow you time to drive the screws.

Suggest using teak or Ipe or similar wood for the cleat.

Hope this helps.

Posted by ratherwhalering on 04/05/05 - 9:51 AM

SJ: I just finished refinishing the teak hatches on a 1985 Outrage:
[color=brown]Removed Dead Link[/color]

Strangely enough, these hatches are screwed together using the method that Islander describes. To remove a brokes/split board, undo the screws and it will come off. You can then use a teak expoy ("Smiths" is available at BoatsUS) or just a good wood glue and some furniture clamps.

Easier, but more expensive, is to drop it off at a local cabinet maker/wood worker and have it duplicated. I will be doing this soon for the teak gunnel on the OR-18 soon.

For the sump cover, take it to TAP plastics, and they will make you an exact replica for around $15.00. They have Seaboard in "Desert Sand" which matches the desert tan color of your hull well.

You will be shocked at how well teak cleans up. The console doors/frames pictured above were awful when I started, but with sanding and attention to detail you will be happy with the outcome. This is the most rewarding project for a restoration, in my opinion, because the results are immediate, and it is such a drastic improvement!

Edited by Mike on 03/23/07 - 5:42 AM