Posted by fitz73222 on 07/31/16 - 5:28 PM
#20
heimtun wrote:
I've been reading over your proceedure and am having trouble wrapping my head around:
Now from the pump body you are going to see a link rod that connects to the throttle linkage with a ball socket, disconnect that ball socket at the throttle linkage, it justs pops off with a little effort.
Got this... seems relatively easy.
Then you will see the pump arm rotate to full 50/1 oil feed position, this will allow you to do this on a flush attachment in the driveway without having to put the boat in the water and run at high speed.
Not sure what you mean re above... "pump arm rotate to full 50/1" - hmmm?? Are you saying I can do a flush on the driveway somehow and don't have to do the step below?
Now you have to run the engine on pre-mix 50/1 in a remote tank to make sure while the engine is running it is getting the correct amount of oil while the remainder of the air is bled from the oil pump. Run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes and your done!
Not sure about above either...
What happens (doesn't) happen when I remove the rod?
The oil pump is gear driven from a gear on the crankshaft to a worm gear that drives the pump. The outflow of the pump is regulated by engine throttle position from 80-1 at idle to 50-1 oil to gas ratio above 3500 RPMs via the link arm I mentioned. When you disconnect that link arm the pump regulating valve is spring loaded and the pump will default to full open position. Basically you are fooling the pump into max oil flow because it is no longer tied to throttle position. The premise is to minimize the amount of time it takes to purge any remaining air in the pump without having to run the engine at high speed to do it. But while this is happening you temporarily run the engine on premix fuel to ensure no damage occurs to the engine from interrupted oil flow from air remaining in the system, of course this is with the engine running above idle. What I meant by flush is running the engine from a garden hose with a set of muffs over the cooling intake holes.
This process is based on running it at shop and not having to launch the boat since it's not good practice to run the engine above 3500 RPMs out of the water, hence fooling the oil pump into max flow and doing it on land . If you choose to put the boat in the water to do this you do not have to disconnect the link arm and just run it on premix fuel, take it and run it like you would normally for a half hour or so and the system will be purged of air and engine is protected from your premix fuel while this occurs. Hope this makes better sense. Congratulations you still have your ignition wrench set and you have some cars that need them!!!