Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 1998 60 hp 2-cycle low oil switch

Posted by fitz73222 on 07/31/16 - 1:56 PM
#17

heimtun wrote:
fitz73222 wrote:
Hi Wayne,
Which part of this did you want to revisit?

I was thinking of possibly trying to replace the switch and do the hose (which you recommended) at the same time.

I don't want to do that until I understand all aspects of this replacement - including how, based on your warning not to start the motor until, I "prime" the oil pump.


OK, got it...
The hose comes in a 15" length from Mercury so pretty self explanatory trim to fit to the old hose length plus a smige extra just in case you need it. Tie strap the connections at the tank base and the oil pump. Make sure the tank sits correctly in the rubber boot at the bottom of the tank and the oil line and fitting sits in the groove at the bottom of the rubber boot and make sure there is no interference, kinks, anything that keeps the oil line from a nice straight and clean shot to the oil pump fitting.The switch is easy, one screw, in and out, done and connect the two blue wires. Now that we have introduced air into the system we need to bleed the pump. You'll need a flashlight to see the pump hex nut (9/32") in the middle of the oil pump body, it sticks out a little bit so you'll see it. Chances are you wont have that wrench unless you have an ignition wrench set from the old days for setting up breaker points in automotive distributers. I'm 56 and still have my set LOL. After everything is hooked up and secured, dump a quart of outboard oil in the tank. Now open that bleeder screw a couple of turns and you'll see the oil line fill and bubbles start to come out of the pump behind fitting you loosened and then oil will start to run out of it, snug the screw back up, done. Now from the pump body you are going to see a link rod that connects to the throttle linkage with a ball socket, disconnect that ball socket at the throttle linkage, it justs pops off with a little effort. Then you will see the pump arm rotate to full 50/1 oil feed position, this will allow you to do this on a flush attachment in the driveway without having to put the boat in the water and run at high speed. Now you have to run the engine on pre-mix 50/1 in a remote tank to make sure while the engine is running it is getting the correct amount of oil while the remainder of the air is bled from the oil pump. Run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes and your done! Reconnect the link arm from the oil pump to the carb linkage. You now can go back to straight gas if you want because your oil injection system is now purged. Easy Peasy!