Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: non skid
Posted by wamair on 04/14/16 - 10:02 AM
#1
I am spraying the interior of my 15 sport with gelcoat mixed with Duretec. The problem is the non skid. Should I spray over it and hope there is some left? sand it down and put some non skid in with the new gel coat or replace it all using Flex mold? I haven't tried ether process be for so any info would be appreciated . Thanks
Posted by Perichbrothers on 04/14/16 - 10:55 AM
#2
The flex mold stuff works awesome.
Used some for a non-whaler by Gibco I think.
The drawback is a sheet to cover your 15 is about $600.
The typical rubber granules are cheap and sticky.
TP
Posted by wamair on 04/14/16 - 12:21 PM
#3
can you use a smaller piece of flex mold and do it sections. Thanks
Posted by jamesgt727 on 04/14/16 - 1:53 PM
#4
yeah you can, just plan your breaks under seats and it'll look great, mine was done in smaller sections and it turned out perfect. large sections are really tough to do without flaws.
Posted by wamair on 04/14/16 - 5:48 PM
#5
Thanks jamesgt727 your boats are beautiful.
I'm installing a 1984 Yamaha 90 on my 15 that weighs 225 lbs and will be using the same interior that you have in the black max. I am trying to keep the weight down. jack plate or fixed mount?
Do you know the weight on your power plant setup?
Have you ever figured the center of gravity on your boat? ( I have no idea were it should be but it would be good to know )
Posted by jamesgt727 on 04/16/16 - 12:18 PM
#6
Couple things to consider...
If you can extend the strakes to the transom, then the CG doesn't matter as much and the boat will ride rock solid at any speed. My Atlas Jack Plate (hydraulic) weighs 42#, motor weighs 305lbs, and hydraulic steering I have a modified lower unit, so I guess I am near 360 lbs. You shouldn't need to worry so much about the CG, my interior is pushed as far forward as I could get it. My measurement is, From the transom to the front of the captain seat edge, 64".
If you are not running a modified lower unit, or a surfacing prop, I wouldn't bother using a hydraulic plate, they are heavy. If you are running a stock foot, just mount the cavitation plate just above the bottom of the hull lowest running surface.
The 15 performs best if its nose heavy. You don't want the nose of the boat up at all when you are running, even my boat runs fastest with two people in the boat, one driving and one up front. My best top speed number came with a 200# man up front ducking from the wind. WIth nobody on board, my CG is close to 48" from the transom, 1"-2" above the deck. When loaded with fuel and a person, the CG move forward, probably in the 60" range. When I run the boat by myself, I ballast the boat with anchors and weight in the forward locker, with near 80#'s.
The only thing I would suggest beyond the hull mod, is to run hydraulic steering, it is the best part of my boat. I'll tell you, if you are looking for a little speedster, I know of a place you can really hop up Yamaha's. More so than Mercs (like mine).
http://www.shop.hydrotecmarine.com/pr...tegoryId=2 these guys can make the Yamaha run so fast its scary
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O_KR4..._KR4Uv9NM0 keep in mind these are only 40HP motors running over 70 mph. If I had to do it all over again, I would have used the 90 yamaha (painted black of course) and had Hydro-tec build the block for speed. The kit above adds 20 HP.
Edited by jamesgt727 on 04/16/16 - 12:43 PM
Posted by wamair on 04/16/16 - 5:17 PM
#7
thanks again
you read mine mind on painting the Yamaha black.
I will be upending the boat next week to work on the bottom. Any tips on extending the strakes would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Phil