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I know this subject has been discussed several times but I couldn't find anyone discuss a kicker on a 170. During this off season I am planning on putting a kicker on mine and looking to see if anyone has done it and is willing to share the how it went.

My present plan is to add a 6hp Mercury on a Tanner Mfg mount. I would like the 8hp but worried about the extra weight. If you have experience with the 170 I would like to hear about it.

Thanks

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l installed a 1983, 9.9 evinrude on my 1988 newtauk,90 hp, bolted straight to the transom, starboard side,works like a charm. On full plane the kicker is totally out of the water. Trolls great, stears with large motor, again have not had any problems with this set up. Mike

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Mike

How close to your max transom weight are you with your setup. With the 6hp am going to really close and a 8hp or 9hp would put me 30 to 40 lbs over the recommended max. Mike

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Here is Warren's (WT) photo album showing his Mercury 6 hp kicker on his Montauk 170.

Warren is pretty hardcore and I respect his setup and gear.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/warre...amp;page=1

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1988, Newtauk, 1989 2 stroke 90hp evinrude Fitch, 2 stroke 9.9 evinrude 1986,weight around 85 #. I think I'm ok on #, 4 stroke weight more than 2 strokes, I'm problem right with Phil T on weight. The boat still level in the water, no water in motor well, when setting in wafer.

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I saw were the max hull weight was around 410# or so for a 17' montauk, so l'll asume that my evinrude 90hp,2 stroke weight in @ around 320#, with power tilt and trim and kicker 9.9hp 2 stroke is around 85#', I'm right around max, I feel ok, with that weight,the gas tank is under the RPS, all three battier are up front, one under console, two in the cooler for for trolling motor 24v. Just my thought's

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Please keep in mind the Montauk 17 and Montauk 170 are completely different hulls.

Kicker selection and mounting is not the same for both models.

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Yes. That's why I am looking specifically for someone with kicker on a 170. With the 6hp and the 2015 Mercury 4 stroke there is no max weight wiggle room. But I think it will be fine and I never fully load with people.

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sorry I didn't see the 170, I thought all Montauk were the same. Mike


(Edit: fixed typo in Montauk for search ability)

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I have a Merc 9.9 on a Tanner mount on a 2007 montauk 190 and it works great. The mount is the best.

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Did all the bolts go below the step or did you put a couple of though bolts above the step? How are you as far as max engine weight? Do you have any pics?

Thanks

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Gentlemen: could you please shed some light on Kickers and brackets.
I own a Montauk 190 (2011) with Mercury 150 EFI Fourstroke.
I am buying a long shaft Mercury 9.9.
I don't know yet how to install in a very steady and neat way the small engine. I have seen Mfjnet picture and it has a very nice look.
Can you please tell me what bracket you have used (Tanner? which model?), how you manage the small engine when cruising at high speed and also if the two engines are coupled.
Thank you very much for your help.

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I used the bracket from Tanner Mfg for my install of my 9.9 hp kicker. My boat was only 1 year old and I wanted something solid, durable and professional looking that would last the lifetime of the boat. I believe Tanner brackets does this but they are costly, but well worth it in my opinion. You can just call them and they have a product for all Whalers.

To mount mine a built a jig that would hold the motor with the bracket attached and I attached this jig to my motorcycle Floor jack. This way I could move the complete set up up, down and sideways and look at and measure everything perfectly for the best location. I have attached a picture of this set up on my personal page on this site. I also created a plywood jig that matched the mounting face of the bracket and holes exactly. This helped me drill perfectly spaced and perpendicular holes for mounting. The top 3 holes are above the rear seat and I used white bolt head covers for a professional look.

The final attachment location allows me to fully tilt up the motor (must be turned to one side) for cruising and launching. I steer with the main motor by attaching them together with an EZ Steer set up. The rod with the EZ Steer was too short so I purchased a longer stainless steel rod and bent it in a Z pattern for a perfect fit. I also covered the rod in a hard plastic tubing for a great look. I had to build a small aluminum bracket for attachment to the kicker motor. In the end it works perfect, steers great and comes on and off in seconds for tilting and cruising. After 2 years of use with many hours trolling for salmon i have no regrets or problems with my set up.

Hope this helps

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Kind of you Mjfnet.
I'm thoroughly reading your post and I'm trying to fully understand in Italian some terms I am not used.
I think that your solution is the neatest I have seen up to now.
Before looking at your picture I had already identified Tanner as "the" solution, now I am trying to contact them to see if they can ship overseas.
One more thing: should any doubt arise, I will come back you.
Thanks a lot for now.

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Question for you, Mjfnet.
I am in touch with Tanner, they have been very helpful and I am in the process to place the order.
But...they supply the bracket in two flavours: offset at 6"1/2 or offset at 13" from the transom.
I am highly in doubt.
Since, as far I have seen, you have my same engine "long shaft", which one of the two bracket did you choose, and why?
My first idea is to go with the 13" as I have more room to lock the engine high enough when not in use, but I am not 100% convinced of this.
One more thing: did you install a second plate inside the boat on the transom or not?

Thank you very much.

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Mine is the 6 1/2 offset. That is the size they recommended for 17 Montauk. It works well for me, but I could see an advantage to the 13” in that it would be eadier to tilt the motor up. Mine tilts up fully but must be turned to one side and you have to reach down to the stop to un lock it.

I did use some stainless steel backing in the area of the boat behind the access hatch. In the area above the step I backed with some 1/4” starboard and washers. After 2 years of lots of use of the 9.9 Mercury trolling it is still solid.

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Thank you.
I had the very same idea about backing with a stainless steel plate,
I am still in doubt; the 6" 1/2 is unobtrusive, the 13" probably not.
It never happens that the propeller comes down to the water when the engine is up?
And...your engine is long shaft, correct?

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Have you seen this article for reference?

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=111

http://www.tannermfg.com/motorbracketsorbrackets

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Yes, thank you. Pictures depict the “long offset” bracket, it would be very useful to have an identic look of a similar engine with “short offset” bracket which is less intrusive and, by far, nicer.
I am convinced that Tanner is the right choice, I still have doubts on the offset.
It will end up that if I cannot find a lateral picture of the transom with the engine up I’ll have to revert to a simulation with drawings where I am hot very keen.

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I went through the same issues earlier this year, and also got a lot of info from this site. In the end I took my chances and did what I thought was best. My current setup is awesome, and exactly what I wanted.

First of all, I think the Tanner is a wonderful bracket. But I thought it cost more than it was worth so I bought the competitive Garelick model. It isn't as fancy, but it works fine.

Originally, I estimated that I needed a long shaft. Wrong choice. It ran fine, but it dragged in the water at any speed when not in use and tilted up. I ended up trading a brand new motor in for a NOS short shaft.

The picture of the Suzy above looks to me that the motor is a long shaft, and thus longer than it need be. For a troller that will never exceed hull speed, only the prop need be below the bottom. Lining up the cav plate with the bottom is not necessary. Now, having said that, if that motor does not drag in the water, then it should be OK and the extra drag from the longer shaft will probably be insignificant.

I didn't buy a EZSteer, but rather simply a SS all-thread and a pair of QD couplings, and cut it to the proper size. The main already had a hole in the bracket that worked fine.

I have had kickers on every boat I've owned since 1968, so I have a bit of experience. Nevertheless, I still learn new tricks every day.

The attached pic was taken with the original long shaft. The new short shaft is much higher out of the water.

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and the last...

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I have the long shaft and the 6 1/2 Tanner bracket, When I am fully tilted up I don't touch the water at all. This is the only picture I have with the motor up. The boat is at the boat house so unable to take another until net time I am there. Hope it helps.

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It does help a lot. Thank you!

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Hard to tell, but it looks like the 9.9 tilts higher than my 3.5.

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Are we all on the same page here?

15 inch shaft = Short
20 inch shaft = Long
25 inch shaft = X Long

gypsmjim looks like an X Long shaft but that could be just the photo.
The model number of the motor would tell us for sure.

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I'd bet a beer...seems xl at first glance

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The one in the picture on the trailer is a 20" (long), which IMHO was too long for the application. I have since switched to a short (15"), which is what was on the transom in the picture with the boat in the water. By making the switch I actually gained a fraction higher speed (less drag).

Mercury's catalog indicates that they do not even offer an XL (25") in the single cylinder 3.5 HP 4-stroke model.

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Make is a Bud...

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Would be nice to know the Model number of your motor.

Many manufacturers change their specifications from year to year so trying to find out what any particular years specification can be challenging.
Always best to post Factual information here so we can all be on the same page.

A short shaft apparently is good for your boat/situation as you mention for your Montauk 150.
It may not be good for other models like a Montauk 170 as Mjfnet states in his post where the 20 inch long shaft works for him.

Nice to have references for both newer model boats.

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Mine is definitely the Mercury 9.9 hp 20” long shaft. My model # is 9.9MLH.

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Model 1F03201HK. The attached EBay listing shows a pic for reference:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercury-3-5-HP-4-Stroke-Outboard-Motor-1F03201EK-Manual-Start-Tiller-Handle-15-/132440879970?hash=item1ed6177362

Certainly, different hulls have different requirements. In my experience kickers are often mounted too low. Sure they can be mounted with the AV plate lined up with the boat bottom and they will work OK. But mounted higher they will work better. The prop just needs to be below the bottom.

Not trying to be argumentative - just responding to a question and trying to provide the benefit of my experience.

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Any make and several

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Looks like Mjfnet has the 9.9 Long shaft according to his Model/Serial number.
He also has the Manual Start model and a few other Letters missing for the year etc.
9.9/M/L

Below is a photo of a "Four Stroke/ 9.9hp/ Electric Start/ Long Shaft/ HPB" telling us what year
Some of you Mercury folks can tell us what year this is?

Always interested in seeing variations and what works best for different boats and owners.

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I've had several already today, so no need for more.

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The box tells it all....It's a 2012.

In my case I had a 2017 long shaft and traded it for a 2011 short. Lost my shirt on that one but at least now I got the cats meow...

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We don't have the box here for verification.

Many people tell us they have a Montauk, or a particular year of something. Most of the times they either have typo or some other mistake.
What they really have is something different once they tell us the year and the info or photo from the box.

Factual numbers that are posted here is what we know.

I have lost of boxes in the garage. :-)

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Joe, I believe he was referring to the "12" that can be seen within the black box in the lower right corner of the decal.

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Mine is a bare bones 2015 9.9. The label is simply F9.9MLH

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Ha Ha to me.
I was thinking boxes or crates in some cases.

Thanks for the label numbers mjfnet,
That shows exactly what you have.

OMC used to have the year and accessories in those letters in code.
But the E= Electric, L= Long, etc. and the years used "INTRODUCED" as the code for the year.
So a CC in the Serial/Model would equal a 1988 year model.