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My 1989 Montauk has 2 gas tanks I want to replace. One is a red plastic 12 gallon and the other a red plastic 6 gallon. Both are kind of ratty and I don't think either is original. They sit under the RPS and are kind of held in place by a wooden frame. They sit right on the deck as opposed to a mat. I picked up a used white Moeller 22 gallon tank and was checking it out on the weekend. It does not fit into the wooden frame so I postponed the job for now. I plan to remove the frame and fasten the tank to the deck with Moeller hold down brackets.
Does anyone know if this meets all of the USCG rules and if it will make any changes to the equipment required to be carried.

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The Moeller meets USCG regs.

What wooden frame are you talking about? It does not sounds like an add on.

All you need is 4 footman loops and some straps.

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I only get to the boat on weekends or I would send a photo. The "frame" is made out of wooden strips about 1"X 1" fastened to the deck and surrounds both tanks. It looks like it may have been added to keep the tanks from sliding around.
Looks like Moeller P/N 035711-10 would give me the straps and footman loops ($50).
I was thinking of using the Moeller metal "straps" P/N 035710 ($27)

They are on this page...3rd and 4th items down.

http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermar...cessories/

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These were original:
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=698

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Thanks for the link to the photo Joe. The boat definitely does not still have the original mats. The tanks sit right on the deck.
Someone did a fairly nice job of installing the wooden frame countersinking the screw into the deck and filling the holes with wooden plugs.

I'm debating whether to put the Moeller tank right on the deck also or put some kind of map under it. I'm hoping some members that installed the Moeller tank will chime in. I'm also interested in what method they used to secure it.

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there have been a few threads in the past on this topic.
I am in a similar boat as you. I have the moeller 22G white topside tank and under it are the 1989 OEM tank mats that are riveted too the deck. I have been thinking of taking others advice and replacing the old OEM mats with Dri-Dek (to fiit under the tank)
I too am figuring out how to best secure it i.e. secure it with the moeller tank hold down kit (straps) or the moeller permanent fuel tank hold down kit (Stainless brackets). That said, I read reviews about the stainless not holding up....pitting, etc.
before patching old holes and drilling new ones, I want to do it right the first time. So trying to figure out the best move myself

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FYI...I got a quote from a local outfit in NJ to make a custom aluminum tank to my dimensions and got this:

job: [1] gas tank 25 gal.
[1] baffle [1] ground tab
[1] fill with vented cap
[1] pick up tube
[1] sender mounting plate
pressure test to 5.lb air
mat: 1/8" [.125] thick alum. 5052 grade
epoxy coat ext. of tank
price: $390.00
shipping: ?
del. [5] work days

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The company that makes the aluminum tank said it needs to be grounded. I don't see any provision for grounding the Moeller plastic tank.

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USCG regulations do not require above deck plastic tanks to be grounded.

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Thanks Phil.
I'll likely stick with the Moeller anyhow since I already have it.
I'l'l keep an eye out here for any installation suggestion that may show up to help me do it right the first time.
One additional question I had was whether to run the fuel line directly to a barb in the tank connector or continue to use the already existing Evinrude quick connect.

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My personal opinion for fuel line and connectors is to replace them periodically, especially fuel fittings.

I like the high quality metal disconnects. While you have an OEM connector for the motor, the tank side is up to you.

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I have the Moeller 22 Gal tank on my 1984 Montauk 17. It's mounted under the RPS and was held down with those nylon straps but it's still moved around a little so I used the stainless hold-down brackets. My tank sits on the two original rubber mats with the edge lip removed where they meet giving a large flat area for the tank so sit on. I don't think you really need anything under it if you use the brackets to hold it still. Anything not a solid surface, like strips of teak or plastic or rubber is just going to be putting hard spots on the bottom of the tank rather than even flat level support. By the way, that same tank, same dimensions and all, used to be rated at 24 gal but I think because the fill is aft in the boat that side of the tank is lower so you can only get 22 gal in there. In any case. love mine.

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When I remove the existing wood strips from the deck, what is recommended to seal the holes?
Should I also use some sealant on the new screw for the tank hold down brackets?
I guess #10 1 1/4" flat head screws should be about right for those stainless brackets (don't have them in front of me).

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I would use pan head screws and bed them liberally with 3M 4200 or something on that order. Not silicone. As for the wood strips I would just clean out the screw holes and fill with MarineTex.

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Thanks. I have 4200. Will any marine putty epoxy work to fill the old holes? They will be mostly covered by the Moeller tank I could also fill them with 5200.

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If the holes would be hidden, not liking to do any more work than I have to, I would probably use 5200 too.

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I really like that West System Six10. I always have a tube of it and a few extra nozzles. You do need a good caulking gun (not a Harry Homeowner POS) to squirt it out. It's pricey though. Marine Tex works well too.

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I got the wooden frame out today. It was a pain getting to the screws under the wooden plugs but not too terrible. The tanks fits real nice under the RPS. I'll fasten it in place tomorrow.

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The wood was fastened to the deck with 3" #10 screws. From what I see in the wood locating drawings available here, the plywood under the deck is only 1/2" thick. I think i'm going to use 1 1/4" long #12 screws to fasten the hold down brackets.

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The tank is in!

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I can't figure out which tank you put in?

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I ended up installing the Moeller 22 gallon made for the Montauk that I bought used from a member here. It fit fine once I removed the wooden frame mentioned earlier. I fastened it to the deck with the Moeller metal straps (which are actually aluminum) using #12 1 1/4" stainless screws.

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Nice work - did you put anything under the tank or do you have it right on the deck?

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I put it right on the deck.

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Here is a couple of photos. One shows the wooden frame I had to remove. There are a couple of the fuel tank.
The GPS odometer said we ran 21 miles fishing today near Ocean City, NJ and the ETEC 90 burned a shade over 4 gallons.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/jpd7xphom76...t.jpg?dl=0

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Does anyone know if Dri-Dek under the moeller 22G white topside tank will work with the moeller permanent fuel tank hold down kit? If the tank is on the deck using the hold down kit, the aluminium brackets have some extra wiggle room, height wise, but im wondering if its enough to accommodate Dri-Dek. Has anyone done this set up? If so, do you have any pics to share?
Thanks

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I don't know how thick it is but I just put a Moeller 22 right on the deck. The aluminum clamps they sell for that tank did not really hold it down tight. I ended up cutting some 1/2 pieces tygon tubing and using it as a cushion under the lips of the clamps. That worked well for me.

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Thanks action - that is good to know and helpful.
I am still curious to know if anyone is using Dri-Dek under the moeller 22G white topside tank with the moeller permanent fuel tank hold down kit? Does it fit? I don't have any dri-dek kicking around to test it out.
Thanks

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Looking online it seems the Dri-Dek is 9/16" thick. If that is the case, the brackets may not fit. I saw somewhere that someone used some sort of kitchen mat they got from Home Depot. That sounds like a good option.

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I wonder how those little points of contact on the Dri-Dek would affect the bottom of the tank. On the other hand I have a 10 gallon bait tank on a piece of Dri-Dek and it works fine. On the third hand if the little points of contact would wear a hole in the bait tank, the water leaking out won't explode. On the fourth hand, the polyethylene material used for the tank is probably harder than the Dri-Dek material and there wouldn't be any movement anyway. The Dri-Dek is about a half inch thick so make sure you have the room and won't block the fuel fill cap removal.

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You can see my tank installation on my personal page. There is plenty of room above. Plus, I can fill it without even tilting my RPS forward.