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I have fooled with that angle issue. I heat the end of the pipe before flaring. I try to flare the water side angle first outside of the boat. I have extra pipe and cut long. Scribe the end I am doing first and cut to match the angle using a cutting blade on a 4" grinder. Ridge ream the end. I undersize the bolt one diameter that comes in the kit as well as cutting down the neck of the flaring head so it does not deeply rub on the interior of the pipe. I then bend the bolt to match the angle a little better and tighten. I tried using all thread with a couple of lock nuts but.....even with additional lock washers the double nut side spun and screwed with the angle pressure. I bought a bunch of bolts to custom bend accordingly. I like doing the water side first because to me.....the most important. I place the tube in the hole and scribe the opposite side cutting long by 5/16" ( extra pipe length from memory, I referred to the Tom Clark article) and reversed the process. You need some one on the opposite side of the bolt holding it dead solid. If it turns, it throws the mitering off. Some fellows use the air hammer method from the article. I use the nuts and attach one of the flaring heads to a bolt with some nuts and tap it with a hammer for touch up. Sometimes just use the ball pinned hammer for a couple of taps. The method is dictated by access for which side to do first.

Good luck and have extra pipe on hand. I nearly went through a 3' length for my first fitting. I load up the the drilled hole in the boat with "BoatLife Sealant" to aid in sealing with the rubber O ring. Not too much or it distorts the rubber....mostly inside the holes edge. Some use some epoxies but I worry what would happen to the hull if I have to go in there again.
Garris