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A crab walks "straight" even though he does not think he is going sideways. It is all relative. You are looking at options and each one has it's trade offs. Looking at personal pages from above, you can simply screw the plastic mounting block to your boat to building a cool matching wooden frame. Also consider where and why you want to troll. If you want to slow troll live herring for stripers on the open water of Lake Lanier, mounting your trolling motor off to the side will work. If you go to Savannah and want to chase Reds and go up little creeks and inlets on a falling tide, you better mount it in the center. The trade offs I looked at were, I wanted to keep my front rail, we do go "offshore" every now and then. I did not want the trolling motor sticking out past the gunnel. I wanted to keep my bow open to fish and I wanted to go against a sometimes pretty strong current. We do not stay out past dark often so relocating the running lights was not a big deal. We do anchor between the Charleston jetties sometimes, so losing the chock was a trade off but we fish for Reds far more than we anchor fish. If you have 10 coats of Awlgrip on your Mahogany and Teak, and want to keep your boat stock you may need come up with some kind of removable custom mounting plate.( I think that is what your post asked!! LOL) I bet there are local businesses who can cut out parts on a water jet, tig weld and powder coat.

Todd12 has a cool simple set up. Since you do not have the front step area, you could curve your plate to match the boat's gunnel and bolt through the rub rail lip. I did that using the holes where the bow light/chock were and with my down rigger mounts.

Good luck on your search!