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I just purchased an OEM replacement rub rail and plan to install this weekend. I have two questions for the group:

1) Is it preferable to seal the old rivet holes with a marine sealant (such as 3M 4200 or 5200 or polysulfide sealant) or should I use gelcoat, marine tex, west systems six-10, etc?

2) Is it preferable to use rivets or stainless screws during the reinstallation?

Thanks in advance for the groups insights!

Bill

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Several methods as you state and it's kind of a personal preference.
If you use the search function, you'll find lots of threads for additional reading.

http://www.whalercentral.com/search.p...p;chars=50


Sounds like a little difficult to install, a few tricks but all worth it in the end.

Best regards,
Doug

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I used Six-10 to fill the rivet holes, it works great. I put a piece of blue painters tape on each filled hole as I went along so they wouldn't seep and they'd be nice and flush.

Make sure the receiver track is good and warm.

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I filled my old holes with "Splash Zone". Similar to working with Bondo. I like using screws for the track. I had a molding "bump" in the track's casting that would not cinch tight as I attached it with screws. Fortunately it was at an area that I could get some clamps on it. I clamped it tight an left it alone for a few days before I re-installed it. The same with the 6" returns that get mitered cut installed over the transom. Bowed badly, so I shimmed the two outer edges on top of some plywood and put a screw in the center to straighten the piece, and left alone for a few days. I prefer installing the rubber any day of the week than working with the track.

Garris

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I filled my old holes with "Splash Zone". Similar to working with Bondo. I like using screws for the track. I had a molding "bump" in the track's casting that would not cinch tight as I attached it with screws. Fortunately it was at an area that I could get some clamps on it. I clamped it tight an left it alone for a few days before I re-installed it. The same with the 6" returns that get mitered cut installed over the transom. Bowed badly, so I shimmed the two outer edges on top of some plywood and put a screw in the center to straighten the piece, and left alone for a few days. I prefer installing the rubber any day of the week than working with the track.

Garris

Some one earlier referred to track as working with "coiled concrete", I second the motion. I also had a piece of track that could have been mounted continuously around the hull. Tom Clark said to leave a seem on the bow and I did.

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If you don’t mind me asking what did you pay for the rub rail?

The reason I ask is I acquired some from a diseased friend which isn’t the correct size for my Revenge, however it appears to be the same as my 1988 Montauk.

Best of luck on your project.

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I have a new piece of black rub rail (no track, I ended up purchasing an additional red rubber insert) that fits my 1979 22' Revenge. You can have my 50' piece for the $65 I paid for it plus shipping.

Garris

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Thank you all for your responses - I appreciate it!

My plan:
1) Remove original rub rail by drilling out old rivets.
2) Fill old rivet holes with West Systems Six-10 (easy form factor for application via use of caulk gun) and tape over with painters tape until fully cured
3) Install new rub rail track with heat gun, clamps, stainless screws, and 3M 4200 to be sure screw holes are sealed.
4) Replace bow light wiring during the process.
5) Install insert with rubber mallet and then affix ends of insert.

I plan to take lots of nice pictures and will create project page to document for others to have as a reference.

donp - I purchased it off eBay for $199 + $29 shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131248516942?...1497.l2649

Garris - Thank you for the offer but I already have an insert included with the rub rail I purchased.
Best,

Bill

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I recommed using the rivets as the fiberglass is not that thick where the rub rail secures. Also that is what the factory used on all the whalers that I have replaced rub rails on. All my rub rails where one continous piece. One problem I had was the front bow light had to be shimmed up. I used a 1/4" star board cut to the shape of the bow light mount. I did not want to cut into the new rub rail. Good luck

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For clarification, my rub rail insert is one continuous piece. My track (that accepts the insert) has the seem at the bow. My guess would be for expansion and contraction with the temperature.

Garris

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My original rub rail and the new rub rail are one contiguous piece as well. It's interesting Garris' was two piece. Have any had problems with buckling of their once piece rub rail after installation?

I just removed the old rail - what a pain and a dirty job at that. Tomorrow I clean up the hull edge and repair the old holes with West systems six-10. You are correct the glass isn't really that thick so I may switch to using the rivets once I get a good look in day light.

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I havn't had any problems with the contiguous piece . Tha was the way boston whaler shipped it to me. I assume your kit came with instructions ? Something else is the soft L that goes between the hull and the rigid track , it looks like it can go either way, but the longer part of it goes on top . Also start a new rivet/screw pattern so you don't get to close to old rivet holes.

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You cannot compare different models and/or sizes of Whalers.

Garris' Revenge 22' most likely has 3 seams.
One at the bow and one at each corner of the transom.

Smaller Whalers have no seam whatsoever as the bow is NOT pointed and they don't wrap around the transom like larger Whalers.

I suggest talking about one model of Whaler at a time here so people don't get confused on what is going on.
We are discussing the rub rail on a 15' Classic model. Nothing else.
No seams in either the track or the insert.

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Joe, thanks for the feedback. I did not know the smaller boats had a different system than mine. Thought all Whalers 2 piece set ups.

Garris

Joe, yes three seems. I tried to describe how to straighten/miter the two small pieces/seems at the stern.

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Thanks Joe for clarifying. That makes sense....and again all thank you for the insights.

I got the hull edge cleaned up tonight and it looks good. I'll fill the old holes tomorrow. I plan to mark the position of the old rivet holes with pieces of tape on the top of the gunwale set back from the edge. This way when I install the new rail I can avoid placing a new rivet in the same place an old one was - when possible.

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wlagarde:

Sent you an e-mail. If you need some wire for the bow light let me know. I have a whole roll and will send you what you need.

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I replaced the rubrail on my 15 footer in June of this year. This is what I did. It is not an easy job, but it is not difficult either. Some folks use one or two helpers but I don't find that necessary. The old rivet holes I filled with a bondo type filler before I sprayed the interior of the boat with AwlGrip. Some folks also soak the new rubrail in a pail of hot water or try to stretch it out in the sun, but those methods don't work very well and after all its summer everywhere, although the insert will go in easier if its soaked in a pail or hot water. The 13 footer rubrail that I did a few years ago is more difficult that the 15 footer, as the raiius in the bow is tighter. You need 3 clamps, that are available at Harbor freight tools for very little cost. Use rivets as they were used originally, and the glass is too thin for screws, and the rivets are inclued. They are a little more difficult to use than screws, but thats just the way it is, and rivets will pull the rubrail track in tighter. Start at either side at the stern. clamp the rail in place for about 3 or 4 feet using the clamps. then just drill your holes and insert your rivets at about 6" intervils. Use a closer spacing for the first 3. when you get that section done, release the clamps, and do the same thing again, moving 3 feet at a time. The rubrail is very stiff, and you have to manhandle it a bit sometimes., Whe you get to the turn at the bow you will find that the rubrail from being coiled up will make the turn naturally, and unlike the sharp turn of the 13 footer, you won't need to use a heat gun, Just keep going and by the time you are half done, you will be a pro. As far as the insert is concerned, it may work better if it is soaked in a pail of hot water. A rubber hammer can be useful . good luck but this job is hard to screw up if you don' rush through it.

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blacksmithdog - I really appreciate the offer. Turns out I already purchased wire from west marine.

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Update - Well I installed the rub rail track and I ended up using rivets. I found them really easy to work with and they pulled the track up to the hull edge really nicely. I didn't need to use a heat gun as Bunkie suggested expect for the very ends near the transom. Installed the new bow light wire this morning and the black insert is half way in - stopped at the bow.

Question for the group:

1) Do most cut the rub rail track to accept the bow light/chock or go with todd12's method? todd12 can you post some pictures of what you did? Also, no the kit didn't come with instructions but I initially referenced Boston Whaler's rub rail diagram and Specialty Marine's rub rail installation instructions.

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I finished the job. I ended up cutting the track (with a small sharp wood chisel) like Whaler did. It looks outstanding. Thanks to everyone for your help.

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Glad it all worked out well.
We'll be looking forward to pictures :-)

Doug

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Not to change the subject, but I have just finished my custom 15 footer, and I'm continuing to search for the same Tohatsu outboard that is on your boat.

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I created a project page of the work that can be viewed here: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...lbum_id=66