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I have a 1979 Montauk (all original) which is the identical boat to the 1982 model you have. Here is a link to the photo album. Perhaps this will help with some of your questions and restoration solutions:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...1146300143

1. Where the battery goes is subject to much debate, but I prefer Whaler's chosen location in the stern corner. They knew what they were doing. The matching tan Whaler battery box is important for this location in my opinion. I recently saw a Montauk with battery moved to the console, and the unecessary clutter was unbelievable, taking up up MUCH NEEDED storage space in the boat. Both oil injection tank and battery (sitting on the boat floor though large hole in console floor) were in the console, and the tunnel was cluttered with the large, thick battery cables and oil injection hose and wiring, leaving practically no place for an esential bilge pump installation.

2. You should always keep the bow locker plug in, and also the stern sump plug. The only time to remove stern sump plug is if you are taking MAJOR water into the boat while underway in heavy seas. Otherwise a functioning 500 GPH bilge pump will get rid of any water, either underway or at rest.

3. Power trim is always nice to have, but with only a 70, not essential. I would not bother changing it, nor installing any kind of trim tabs.

4. Already answered. I use Marine-Tex White epoxy, drilling out hole to twice the #10 screw diameter (3/8" drill). Sand and buff flush, re-drill for the #10 screws.

5 & 6. I would buy factory designed replacement varnished mahogany cooler cleats for the 94Qt Igloo.
There are vendors that can be found on this site. Re-use the existing screw holes in the floor. Set cooler in place with hinges forward! For a factory tan pleat replacement cooler cushion, use Anderson Upholstery in FLA. They are the only vendor still making these, and are first class. Twin Cities Marine can get one for you (from them) if you do not want to go direct.

7. For replacement of the black vinyl console surfacing, I used black carbon fiber adhesive vinyl sheeting. it is basically an automotive product, but it came out nice and looks great. See Ebay for sources. I also replaced the teak plywood instrument panels with new solid teak panels, planed to 3/8" thickness. I upgrades steering to BayStar hydraulic, basically to get rid of the bulky rigid steering cable.

8. I believe a functioning bilge pump is mandatory. I used the little, very compact Rule 500 GPH "chip" sensing automatic (about $60), powered through a simple dash mounted on-off switch, so the sensing mode can be completely turned off when the pump is not needed. The black smooth-wall discharge hose follows the engine/steering rigging, and dumps over the transom alonside the engine. Done correctly, it's not even visible or noticeable.