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Finally splashed it on 6/20/2014.

Here's a link to a post on BDoutdoors. ( Hope WC staff doesn't mind sending people over to see.)

http://www.bdoutdoors.com/forums/thre...rt.545563/

Appreciate all the help, ideas from WC.
Dennis, Phil, Joe, Jharrell, and many others here at WC.

Thanks.
PS: please keep the comments, suggestions coming.

Joe

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hullinthewater,

I cannot get to that link as it says it has been viewed to many times. This is the first time I went there.

We do not mind links to photos anywhere on the net as long as it is not another discussion on another site.

I am not sure what you linked to as it does not work for me.
Is it a photo?
Or a forum discussion on another site?

Would like to see photos.
Try uploading your photos to some photo site like Photobucket, Picasa, etc.

See attachment below on what I see from your link.

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Joe, the link works fine for me.
Very nice and clean boat, although it's a Yamaha on it ; )

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Joe,
Sorry if mis-led, but it's a fishing website and I posted in their 'Check out my boat' forum w/about 10 pics.
I'll update my photobucket over the weekend.

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Also, they're huge on site sponsors (commercials) so they like to ID their traffic headcount. I get that message too if I browse more than 5 pages w/out logging in.

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Many sites have gone commercial.
Even the free photo site, Photobucket.
I can't stand all those ads either. To me it is a waste of my time to visit some sites as I am bombarded by advertisements for things I will never use or even consider buying.

We are selective in our sponsors and it must be boating related and preferably Whaler related but not limited to.
I'm sure none of us would like to see commercials here for watches, sex toys, real estate, etc.

Try our free personal page section.
Note: it helps to know how to handle the size of photos. See this link below for help if you need it.
http://www.whalercentral.com/faq.php?...p?cat_id=1

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Very nice! :)

It is hard to see in the photos, but have you done the interior anti-slip surfacing yet? Also, it appears you need to get the thru-hulls in the transom tubed :) Don't want to get water in all that new fiberglass and foam work :)

I think re-furbishing a classic Boston Whaler is the very best deal going today, but it does take a LOT of time and patience to do it right. I have a project underway myself that is ongoing for the last 2 years...but we're getting there!

http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...ost_125403

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9978785...428438304/

You'll be bloodying that deck soon!
Oh yeah, as a footnote, I agree with your engine choice, there is no better choice than Yamaha available in my opinion, especially on that size boat. But you may have noticed that I am a fan of their engines on any size boat:)

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I agree Joe. It is annoying to browse w/pop-ups, pop-overs and left-right margin ads.
I just posted pics to a personal page, here at WC.

Silent- thanks. The thru-hull brass drains are replaced with solid fiberglass tubes, except for my anchor locker, which still has original brass but isn't generally immersed. But I'll glass-tube it in later too. Once these are fiberglass, there's no looking back.

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Forgot Silent: yes, I used the the AwlGrip non-skid, which is interesting stuff.
This hull must have sat in the sun it's whole life, but it did have a nice marine blue canvas cover, but whether it sat uncovered, I don't really know.
An awful lot of the horizontal surfaces had gel coat crazing [spider-webs]. While filling in all deck liner holes [+/- 80-90], I decided to abandon thought of trying to hide each one individually and went with AwlGrip LP in BW Desert Tan formula.
I opened all the spiders webs with a dremel using a fine metal cone bit much like a dental drill. Faired in all with a thickened 'peanutbutter-like' WestSystem paste- lots of small plastic trowling and wipe away excess. Since there was no easy way of reproducing non-skid pattern, decided to mask out all the non-skid panels and apply AwlGrip non-skid.
Here's where its interesting: AwlGrip has 3 grades of non-skid, which if you were assessing by looks in the can before use, you might conclude that even the most coarse grade looks fine like sugar and therefore I picked the most coarse. Wrong assessment. The product grows or pops up like pop-corn once it makes contact with paint that hasn't yet set, by chemical reaction. The result for me is that it was so coarse, you couldn't drag your bare knees or fore arms, and wasn't so gentle on hands either. Once it was set and standing up, I 'softened' it a bit by skimming it with a very thin, sharp 8 inch wide drywall trowel knife. That took it down a bit and I gave it another coat to fill it a hair. Worked well, but still rough compared to OEM patterned gel coat. There will be no slipping here, which is 180 from the straight painted panels, which when wet are very very slick. I'm very pleased with the product, which is hard and will require direct hits with sharp edges to knick or scratch. Likely will scratch or chip with hard landings of metal fish lures, or dropped tools, but oh well, until then its crazy shiney like a polished new gel coat finish. Also did the exterior transom and 2- 12 x 12 square repair areas that were only 3x3 inch injuries by PO.

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Looks good and very clean.

Observation:
It looks like the old motor was mounted using the "Blind" holes.
Now your new motor looks like it is using the Standard BIA mounting holes which would mean the lower holes are the "Red" ones.
In 1986/1987, the 17' hulls could drill the Standard BIA holes.
Also looks like your motor is mounted 2 holes up.

Can you measure your holes in the transom and let us know for sure that the "Red" holes are drilled?
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82

Good job on your personal page.
Now no more unwanted advertisements from those other hosting services.

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Thanks Joe- I'll measure holes next time I down there (tomorrow).
The old lowers were not blind, but thru to the old 1987 Yam40 2S. Bolted all the way thru.
Correct on 2 holes up; like I said, if lifted to 3 holes up, the bottom of bracket will clear waterline at rest.
I'll update here with some more performance data when time allows.
Now in 7th hour and haven't gone over 43k rpm.
Current Priorities:
Wire up Bilge pump (back getting tired of scooping 20 big-gulps out of bilge)
Pin down the lean post seat
Secure strap fuel tank and Racor 025 to lean post
Console: Set glove box, then lower access hatch, UnSwitched loads/Fuse-Switch panel.

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It appears those old engine mounting holes haven't been filled. Or is that just the appearance in the photo? Anyway, if they haven't been filled, you should put some 5200 or 4200 in there until you can do a more permanent job because there is exposed end grain plywood inside this holes.

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Wing- they're lined with WestSystem.
Decided it was easier than plugging with grain correct material for such small openings. Might be usable for transducer leads, otherwise they just drain out like the big splashwell drains.

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Joe K-
I just did an indirect measure of new motor mount hole layout from pics I took back when. It looks to me that I have a Yellow hole [7-1/4"] layout.
I just updated personal page w/pics of the hole layout.

http://www.whalercentral.com/infusions/personal_page/view_personal_page.php?user_id=29977

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Thanks.
With a 7 1/4" spacing, those would be the Yellow holes.

Your motor is now mounted 2 holes up and you are able to raise and lower your motor by not using those old blind holes.

Looks good.

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Nice job on the upgrade. I like that console better than most of the after market ones I've seen so far. Is it the Niente or the modified Niente? I am customizing a 1988 SSL and trying to decide weather to go with the modified which is 30 inches or the standard which is 36.

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Nice job that is exactly what I want to do with my 1999 Alert 17. Can you post any pictures of the completed job with the leaning post installed. That is exactly the console that I've been looking for. And last but not least how satisfied are you with this setup and what if anything would you do differently if you did it again, as far as I can see nothing but after having this setup for a while I'd just like to hear your opinion.

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johnstout and Alan H take a look at the OP personal page where he shows the CC and talks about the supplier and also shows pictures of the leaning post.