---

I am about to replace the bunks (wood, brackets and carpet) on my trailer. In the past, even treated wood only lasts as long as the carpets (4 years max). I have a handful of good red cedar 2x6s that I'm pretty sure would last longer than treated 2x4s.
Would the natural tanins in the cedar seep through the carpet and stain the boat? Should I oil the wood or let the west coast red cedar just absorb and release water like it usually does?

---

Pressure treated will last the longest.

---

Cypress is used a good deal here on the South Coast.

I'm surprised your wood is failing so quickly. Is it possible you're using the wrong carpet type? Is the carpet drying quickly? Usually the carpet used on trailer bunks drys quickly. Carpet that retains water and prevents the bubks from drying well will promote rot.

You may want to consider using the Slick Sticks or similar on your bunks and eliminate the carpet.

---

Remember the carpet goes on the top and the sides but not on the bottom to allow it to dry.

---

Thanks folks.
Yes, the original bunkers were completely covered in carpet and have a light backing which I assume did not allow the wood to dry or drain. I'm going to try the cedar and leave the bottom exposed for good drainage. If I keep checking them, maybe I'll be able to tell whether they are holding up or not, or when they are going to fail, if they do. I'll go back to treated if they don't perform perfectly right away.
I have never used the bunker slicks. Are they as good as they claim? Do they mark or scrape the bottom at all? They say they are "non-marking" but that's what they said about the keel roller and bow stop. I just replaced those with the Stolz rollers and I'll clean the black marks from the old ones when I fix the bottom puncture...
breaks my heart to look at the hole in the hull... not really looking forward to dusty, itchy fiberglass work either.

---

Seal the two ends of the plank. That end grain is where the water intrusion will start the decay.
Garris

---

Right! Thanks gchuba! I might have forgotten about the ends.

---

If you use ipe you won't need to worry about rot or sealing it.

John K.

---

use the red cedar you have but b-4 covering it use Smith & co CPES to stop any rot or decaying especially the end grains

---

I claim no expertise on the matter, but..... it seems to me that given the very few hours per year a trailer bunk stays in the water sealing the end grain is gilding the lily.

---

Ends are like sponges and fabric over them only will compound the expansion/ contraction problems. Just like your treated deck, reseal your ends after cutting and it will last much longer. Besides, the ends make first contact when loading, the other ends face forced water and dirt when driving.
Here in western Canada, I also believe it takes much longer to dry out any water in the bunks because it is so much cooler here. Boats are often stored indoors and unheated. You can often see mini-icicles hanging off wood bunkers.
I saw some park benches once made out of recycled plastic 2x4s. Slap some ski wax on top and you have lifetime bunkers. I'm going to look for a source... as long as I don't have to buy a cord of it just to try it out.
Thanks everyone.

---

I do not know of a "plastic 2x4" that is structural. Expands and contracts with temperature. Droops when hot. Slice your hand when cold/frozen. At least that is with the "Trex" product line. Use your stash of wood.
Garris

---

Used the cedar 2x6s. Light coating on the tops of CedarTreat. Covered with new bunker carpet (couldn't find a blue roll to match the decals- used black). Left the bottoms exposed. Staples only, no adhesive, to make repairs/ replacement easier. Installed a secondary short set to spread the weight too.
Should last a few years... We'll see.
Thanks everyone.
What a great forum.

---

Sealed and varnished Oak will seal the deal for years to come and most likely will outlast your trailer..

---

I wish I had seen this thread earlier. Fishinsam, I used cedar for the same reasons years ago on my 23' Baja trailer. It was okay but I always worried about the wood pulling away from the mounting screws as the grain on cedar is not tight. I just barely tightened up the screws after filling up the screw holes with waterproof sealant. In my experience, the rot has always started with the screw holes. I've never had a bunk that rotted enough that it would not safely support the boat. I've had plenty of bunks that would no longer stay attached to the trailer.

BTW, one trick I use to reduce corrosion of the trailer brackets where the wet bunks sit: in addition to getting the carpet off the bottom, I put two stainless steel fender washers over each screw between the bunks and the brackets. No wet wood touching the brackets and the SS washers don't stay wet.