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Scott - Good work - Your trailer is identical to mine, and set up properly fits these old 21 Ribside/Smoothside hulls like it was specifically designed for the boat.

For reference, here is photo fo mine showing you pretty much everything that needs to be done:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...7742799107

Be sure you do the following set up work:

1. Bunks - As you can see, the 2 x 4 x 5" bunks are all that you need, supported on the last two crossmembers. As you have now determined, the factory suppied suppors are too short, and you need the 12" long ones. You can see that in the photo. Installed, they will be almost level on top, becasue you want them to rest in the highest point of the hull where there is a concave hull shape. Your dealer can use the same approximate location shown in the photo. Keep all weight on the keel when adjusting, and simply tap the supports up against the hull so it doens't rock.

2. Remove the factory installed GALVANIZED lag screws holding the support piece to the underside of the bunks, and replace with 3/8" x 2" STAINLESS lags. This is mandatory, since in salt the moisture holding bunk board will quickly rust out even the galvanized lags. Use a few washers under the lag head if necessary so the lag tip does not penetrate the bunk board and carpet.

3. Install pairs of rollers on all crossmebers. On the forward support, an 8" roller must be used for the front roller. If you look at the frame detail carefully, you will see whay this has to be done, with two loose brackets rather than a single pan bracket. I HIGHLY recommend you use 4 SS bolts for each st of brackets, with the top bolts resting ON TOP OF the crossmember and the brackets slid all the way down on to the bolts. This gives you absolute positive support which cannot drop under load or vibration. See this sefl explatatory photo:

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...3172274907

4. Finally, I recommend the vertical 60" tall guide ons by CE Smith. Install them perfectly vertical, tight against the rubrail, and be sure to use the horizontal 2" PVC extra tube to stabilize the horizontal legs in the vertical position. This simple trick works very well, and keeps the guide-ons strong and stable for years.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...5828637058

5. For stern connection to the trailer, I use a belly strap threaded under the two stern cleats, hooked to 3/8" eyebolts which connect the tail light brackets. Just be careful youi don't crack it down too tight as you can put stress cracks in the top shell.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...8835107585

I would print up these photos for your dealer when you are having the worik done, and BE THERE while he does it. Even the dealer can learn something from this experience!

Good luck. You will be very happy with the rig when set up properly. The boat simply rolls right off the trailer, so never unhook the winch strap until you are backed in. I have to take the bow line and wrap it around a dock cleat, or the winch stand so I can get the winch hook off when launching. Incidentally, the Whaler bow eye being used in these boats doesn't fit most of the standard winch strap hooks. You may have to look around for one that fits without jamming in the eye.