Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Dauntless 170. Desperate to mod for bow mount trolling motor
Posted by Doc L on 04/03/14 - 7:13 PM
#1
i have a 2014 dauntless 170 with the nice shiny bow rail. Now I want to slap a trolling motor on the boat. Looking for some leads if any of you have modified your bow rails with success. I want to try and have the rails retract so as to deploy the trolling motor, yet when the trolling motor is off of the boat to still have an intact bow rail to keep kids from falling out of boat. Any suggestions ?
Posted by Phil T on 04/04/14 - 6:55 AM
#2
Most owners install a plate that extends outward beyond the bow and the motor is mounted the the plate. This allows the motor to stow under the rail without modification.
There have been a few owners who had a hinge added to their bow rail as well.
Posted by Doc L on 04/04/14 - 12:14 PM
#3
Thanks, I think an after market mod to the rail to swing it open is the ticket. I don't want to do the plate because that would not be visually appealing to the eyes. I have a lead on someone in my area (detroit) that may be able to do work like that. Any recommendations on a member that may have been through the bow rail swing option would be greatly appreciated. (Or some pics)
I also talked to whaler today. Good customer service. Whaler needed to restrict placement on factory install options due to keeping the nav light visable enough to meet safety standards.
Posted by gchuba on 04/04/14 - 12:57 PM
#4
I played with the idea for a side rail swing gate option for my 1979 22 ft Revenge. I did a lot of custom stainless rail work on the boat and I really wanted them for safety. I passed on the idea. Factors: a lot of leverage/stress on the "gate" when open (are your rail mounts through bolted or screwed down where you want the gate?) You can really damage the mounts/boat/rail if jarred hard with the open gate/rail; no sharp edges so the gate would be completely custom , and your current rails customized to return to the deck at the gate opening (leaving sharp edges bothered me); very, very, pricey; modifications to the continuous rail would leave the railing looking poorly (name your poison, funny looking rail lines or a trolling motor mount). When I did the rails on my boat, both me and the fabricator stood back to look at the "reveals" on the boat. A railing off by a 1/4 inch looks real awkward.
It was explained to me by the fabricator that the continuous run of rail spreads the load, especially with screwed down bases. I have a walk through opening on the starboard and port sides of my boat, 20 inches wide, and my railings are 17 inches above the gunwales, completely surrounding the rest of the boat. He suggested stainless chain with snap hooks or a "spring clasp something or other" with stainless cable used on sail boats. I left the opening alone.
gchuba
Edited by gchuba on 04/04/14 - 3:19 PM
Posted by Doc L on 04/04/14 - 7:22 PM
#5
I think I am back to a transom mount. I like my nav light where it is. I am Looking at a garelick mount. It has a plate that goes on the transom ( aluminum). Them you slide the bracket into that plate. Then put electric trolling motor ( or 2 stroke kicker ) on the bracket. I suspect I will only need a 36 inch shaft on the transom mount as the whalers draft is 11 inches.
It is harder to "push" a boat from the transom, but I gotta maintain the crossover looks for kids, cruising, and tubing.
Posted by gchuba on 04/05/14 - 6:19 PM
#6
Doc. Contact Garelick directly and give them the specs for your motor. Their mounts have different spring tensions and too stiff a spring for lowering a motor is a !!#!##**! of a time.
gchuba
edit: I guess that Garelick makes different motor mounts and my post is with regards to the accordion/scissor style
Edited by gchuba on 04/05/14 - 6:59 PM
Posted by Doc L on 04/05/14 - 7:00 PM
#7
Doh! Another variable. I'll call them now. Thanks a ton ;). Can't imagine the 80lb thrust minn kota weighs a ton. I ordered the beefer version of the garelick so I bet those spring tension are real tight and woulda been a beast to lower a light trolling motor or 48 lb 6 lb kicker on a bracket designed for a heavier motor.
Garelick also stated some bracket for 4 stroke some for 2 stroke kickers. If the motor weighs the same then what's the difference? Yet another question for garelick.
I did order the accordian style
Edited by Doc L on 04/05/14 - 7:03 PM
Posted by Doc L on 04/05/14 - 7:51 PM
#8
I also just realized I better have my kicker bought at the Same time for a proper install for the bracket!
Sigh....
This all started as a boy with a dream to jig them 'eyes on the detroit river...
Posted by Doc L on 04/05/14 - 8:03 PM
#9
I am now officially posting to myself....I have doubts there is a good spot to mount hardware what with the narrow beam, scuppers, transducer, and also to not cover the eyebolt used to secure the boat to the trailer. .... e Cripes
Posted by aaronm on 04/06/14 - 4:07 AM
#10
I think you are overthinking this. A transom mount trolling motor is very easy to put on and take off. No need for brackets or stress, just use the clamps that come stock with the unit.
It would be best for you to go with a 24 volt system. However, you could possibly get by with a 12 volt system with 55 pounds of thrust.
Posted by aaronm on 04/06/14 - 4:09 AM
#11
Also, you would not be able to push the boat well. You will need to back troll which, luckily for you, may be the best option as you jig up those 'eyes.
Posted by Doc L on 04/06/14 - 4:31 AM
#12
Nowhere to affix the motor on my dauntless transom. It has a small transom mounting areA that pretty much just is big enough for the 90hp Merc. That's my problem. So I gotta make or fashion a plate to bolt it to. Will post some pics if I get a chance.
Posted by Doc L on 04/06/14 - 5:28 PM
#14
Thanks for those picks. I went to my whaler dealer and looked at the dauntless 170 transom again. Mounting a garelick plate is a no go. The back end to the 170 dauntless has a low profile and not much transom above the water line. It would be a custom bracket build do to other obstructions on the transom (scuppers, u bolt used for tie downs when trailering, transducer ). One of those montauk pics had a custom bracket and that's likely the directions I would need to go. I have come full circle and am going to try and engine mount 80lb thrust minn kota. This gets me away from punching holes in the boat. Back to the drawing board.
Btw, nice display of rail mount rod holder ideas as well on those montauks :).
Posted by Doc L on 04/26/14 - 7:39 PM
#15
Finally pulled trigger. Minn kota engine mount 55lb thrust. One deep cycle 27 battery, a charger, a plug. No way to fit 2 large deep cycle 27 batteries in the center console for the 80 lb thrust engine. Install scheduled in 3 weeks! Can't wait to get on water. Threw in extra rod holders and a tackle tray. Will post some pics if it's a successful project.