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Sunday, August 6.

The day dawned bright and clear and breakfast at the dock found us having bacon and eggs on the Coleman stove.

After a brief walk around the island, we pack and stow our gear and head out toward McCargoe Cove. It is a beautiful day, and we idle along down the Amygdaloid channel at no-wake speed, enjoying the scenery.

10 miles or so later, we arrive at the entrance to McCargoe. We see an old 17’ Whaler at the Birch Island dock and comment about it to each other on the radio. Just then, I realize that this is probably “Hoagy” who had mentioned he was going to be up on the island when we were. I just couldn’t remember the name of his boat. I scanned 16 and actually heard an interaction between “Visitation” and the Amygdaloid ranger station. Visitation! That was the name of his boat.

When he cleared the channel, I hailed him on 16 and asked him to switch to 68 where Pat and Dave could overhear our conversation. The dock at Birch Island was full, and we invited him down to the dock at the base of the cove. He gladly joined and as we were tying up at the dock and Hoagy joins us in his 1967 Boston Whaler 16’7” with customized woodwork and a newer Johnson (Suzuki) 4-stroke 90.

Hoagy is 73 and a retired preacher man. These days he’s a prison chaplain and lives in the mid-lower Michigan area. He came to Isle Royale alone….at night…..in his boat…..from Houghton (70 miles)…..with no GPS…….and no working compass. Hoagy is one of the most colorful characters we will meet on this trip….and, perhaps, is among the most colorful characters I have met. Ever.

Not that I’m alone in that estimation of the man. Virtually everywhere we will go on the island, we will meet up with some hiker, boater or visitor who, upon being told we spent some time in McCargoe Cove, will ask – “Did you see that old guy in the little blue and white Whaler?” Hoagy certainly has an impact on people he meets.

Chaplain Hoagy joins us at the dock and soon we’re talking shop – about Whalers and whaler projects and such. There are a group of young men on the dock – they’re hikers – friends and a few cousins all camping together. It’s a warm day and they’re taking advantage of the sunshine to go for a quick refreshing swim. Soon one comes over and asks Hoagy if he will take them fishing. He agrees and shortly two guys and Hoagy are out in the boat casting for pike.

Pat, Dave and I busy ourselves around the boats. Pat is working on rigging a rain shelter for his cockpit aft of the helm and I help him out with that for awhile. Dave didn’t sleep well the night before, and takes full advantage of the relaxing atmosphere and gentle breeze to take a nap aboard TAMPICO.

Later Dave breaks out T/T TAMPICO – an 8’ Zodiac inflatable with 2 HP air-cooled Honda outboard. Cool!

I’ve been reading Bonnie Dahl’s Superior Way cruising guide and let Dave know it’s time to explore the cove. We go for a quick ride around the bottom of the cove and then proceed to explore up the small creek at the base of the bay.

When we return, it’s pushing dinner time and we begin to make meal preparations. Hoagy and the boys aren’t back yet and we wonder how the fishing is while we eat our dinner. The rest of the boys are up at the campfire talking quietly and looking hungrily at us.

Just as we finish dishes, the little Whaler returns with three successful fishermen – the young guys hooting their success loudly to their campmates – 5 pike, two are 29 inches. The group quickly crowds around the dock, photos are taken and three other boys grab the fish and begin cleaning them enthusiastically. I wander over to make sure they’re doing the job properly, while the other guys get their camp stoves out and begin making preparations for a dinner feast (There are literally MOUNDS of meat from this successful trip – and it ends up providing two meals for the seven guys).

After watching these guys struggle to prepare these fish, I can take it no longer. I quietly walk to my boat and grab a fresh onion, a clove of fresh garlic, cooking oil, my frying basket and saucepan….and some of my special batter mix. Returning to the campsite, I take my turn in showing these guys how to prepare a fresh catch!

Soon all bellies are full and tight and the conversation is flowing freely…the remaining fish fillets are securely in a cooler aboard TAMPICO for the night and the stars are blazing.

After quite an evening of conversation, where we learn that several of the boys were actually classmates of a CW Forum member, it’s time to turn in. I crawl into my berth and quickly fall asleep.