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The first two days:
Friday, August 4, 2007
1:00 PM CST
Leaving the office in heavy traffic, 90 degrees. It takes 3 hours to reach Gary, Indiana, on the South side of the lake. My trip plans have changed slightly; in part due to the unusually heavy traffic, in part due to Pat’s earlier trailer problems. I received a call earlier in the day from Pat, who I was going to meet in Copper Harbor on Saturday morning. Pat had trailer trouble in the Detroit area and is just now leaving the metro area. My plans changed from driving up through Wisconsin (back through Chicago) to driving up and following Pat through the lower peninsula of Michigan to ensure he didn’t have any further problems. This is a good idea for me on two fronts: 1st, it provides me with a travel companion in the 16 hour trip ahead; second, it provides a layer of protection from falling asleep at the wheel, since we were in CB communication the entire trip north.

10:00 PM CST Meeting up with Pat in the Wal-Mart parking lot in Gaylord, Michigan, I’ve fully fueled my new Ford F150 tow vehicle and we’re ready to charge onward to Copper Harbor. I’ve set the pace at around 70 MPH. It is faster than I normally tow, however, we’re behind schedule and traffic is light and the weather is clear. In about an hour, we find ourselves crossing the Mackinac Bridge. As we cross the center span, 200 feet above the lake below, I look to the East out to Mackinac Island. A nearly full moon is blazing and has lit the area in full, eerie light. The lake is flat calm. I remark to Pat on the radio that if we get up to Copper Harbor and it’s still dark, I’m game for crossing at night. Foolish me, I always forget how big the Upper Peninsula of Michigan is!

Saturday, August 5, 2007
1:00 AM – we stop briefly in Munising, Michigan for some fuel. The temperature in the interior of the peninsula has registered as low as 38 degrees, and there has been considerable fog on the highway. I’m shivering in my t-shirt, shorts and sandals as I pump fuel into the truck.

4:30 AM – we stop again at Baraga, Michigan for more fuel – the price ($2.85/gallon) is too hard top pass up. Pat pumps his boat full of fuel. I top off my tanks in the boat and the truck and we press onward.

5:45 AM – I’m driving dangerous. The sky in the east is brightening and I’m having trouble staying awake as we navigate the winding road north of Houghton into Copper Harbor…but I know we’re almost there…just a few more miles.

6:15 AM – we roll into the Copper Harbor marina facility as the sun breaks over the horizon. We pull to the ramp and begin loading the boats.

9:15 AM – after loading the boats, re-checking provisions, launching the boats and storing the trailers and tow vehicles, we buy a the last two bags of ice at the marina and start the voyage in a flat calm.

9:35 AM – as we clear the Copper Harbor buoy, I note the time and the sea state – there are small ripples on the water from a gentle breeze near shore, but further offshore, the lake is like glass. There is a gentle ½ foot swell left over from the previous day’s wind…enough to entice a gentle bounce in the boat as we spool up the outboards and begin our crossing at around 30 MPH. My twin 90 HP engines humming along at 3,400 RPM.

I look to the clear water to port and notice the reflection of the moon facing me in the glass-smooth surface. I look over at Pat’s 22’ Revenge, running alongside me with nearly perfect spray patterns coming from the chines. I look over and can see the grin on Pat’s face.

The 56 mile crossing slowly becomes monotonous – after a long overnight drive up to Copper Harbor, the travel fatigue is getting the better of Pat. I notice him crossing my wake back and forth several times (later he tells me that he actually nodded off it was so smooth!).

At one point, I look down at my depth finder: 913 feet deep, running at 30 MPH and 53 degree lake temperature.

The trip continues on – and Isle Royale looms on the horizon. Excitement returns with the return of the isle.

12:30 – after stopping at Rock Harbor for a few forgotten provisions, Pat and I divert to Raspberry Island to stretch our sea legs and for a picnic lunch. Our destination this afternoon is Belle Isle on the other side of the island, but for now, we need energy and a brief walk.

Back on the boats, we beat it to Belle Isle – I’m following waypoints and we’re running smartly. The plan is to get to the dock and settle in for the afternoon and await the arrival of David Pendleton in his 23’ Conquest, TAMPICO. After arriving at the island and securing the boats to the dock, I take a nap on a nearby picnic table, while Pat explores the island. I wake to the smell of diesel fuel in the fresh air. It rouses me from my nap enough to cause me to look up at a large cruiser waiting to dock. It is a dive boat, chartered to dive on the many wrecks of the area. We make room for them at the dock, and soon , the dock is filling up with new boats and no sign of TAMPICO. Eventually, David arrives and we have a grand total of 7 boats moored fast to the T shaped dock with three boats 3 slips rafted 2 deep and Gambler, in the sling behind two commercial dive boats.

Twilight falls and the curtain raises on a celestial display second to none. First Venus appears in the SE, then Mars, chasing Venus (he’ll chase her all week, never catching her). The brighter stars appear and then, our Milky Way galaxy appears in vivid detail. I say my goodnights and retire under the canvas, leaving the rear curtain open to allow the cool night air into my comfortable berth forward….It has been a long day and I quickly drift to sleep.