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I have decided to repower the boat on my personal page after looking at the old 140 Johnson off the boat yesterday. I am completely refitting the boat, and it seems dumb to spend all the cash required to do that without modernizing the power and adding a kicker.

I was considering the E-Tech 150 until I discussed this with my boat guy as all the latest repowers I have seen here at WC have been these motors. The boat Guru has recommended a Yamaha 4-stroke. Whatever I go with, I will also be matching a 9.9 Kicker. I see that weight could become an issue, but I have had extremely good luck with the Yamaha engines on boats in my past and I am now leaning towards this option myself.

I would welcome any input in this matter for consideration...I see several Yamaha powered Outrage 18's in the personal pages here but I have not seen anyone going with them on recent repowers. Why?

Thanks in advance for all input.

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Probably just because of weight along with adding a kicker.

The Yamaha 150 is almost 60 pounds more then the E-Tec 150.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=6

I have been considering the E-Tec 130 along with a kicker.

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I repowered with a Yamaha V-Max 150 fairly recently. I had to add a 5" spacer to the shaft since it only come in a 20" but the spacer was from Yamaha and didn't change the warranty. I love it. Great power and lighter than a 4 stroke.

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Few are choosing the Yamaha 150 due to weight, despite most agreeing it is an excellent engine.

Many choose the Yamaha F115 and love them. The F115 and 8hp kicker combination is pretty close to the same weight of the F150 alone.

It's tough to beat the perfomance per pound provided by the E-Tec's.

There are a few other lightweight choices, such as the Suzuki DF140. There are also rumours of an updated Yamaha 150 being in the works, but no word yet on when it will be available.

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As I continue the research here I see that if I go Yamaha, I really will need to stay with a 115 + kicker. I will have 408 lbs of 115 HP with 108 lbs of 9.9 kicker for a total of 516 lbs hanging off the back of the boat. Does anyone here have experience with performance of only 115 HP on a classic Outrage 18? It seems like it is underpowering...or maybe I am just overwhelmed?

The Evinrude site says they have discontinued the 130 E-Tech and moved to a gaudy looking 135 HP, it also appears to have gained a bit of weight:( The site is confusing me some I admit, but I am unable to find any matching kicker under 15 hp.

The quest continues...

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I recall reading about 115 Yamaha threads. You might want to do a site search to see what pops up. I believe I remember reading that the power was good enough especially if running in the ocean where top end is seldom obtainable. My 25 year old 130hp Yamaha two stroke will do 44 mph (gps) if this helps any.

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The Evinrude site still shows the 130hp but yes, it appears to be no longer in production.
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/engines...es/etec_v4

The Evinrude kickers 15hp and under are made by Tohatsu and are 4 stroke.
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/engines...le_engines

Evinrude does make a E-Tec 2 stroke 15 HO but no longer appears it is available in the US.
http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/engines...le_engines

Also see this list of kicker motors.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=7

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I have a 115 Yamaha 4 stroke on my 1985 18' and it is fine. I wish it was lighter as the transom sits lower than with the 115 yam 2 stroke but it has never been a problem. I wonder why so many have kickers with the dependability of outboards now. I used to have one on a 20' Mako and the one time it was needed it did not start. As soon as the main tank was fueled and the kicker was not needed it started first pull.
If I were truely worried about getting home now it would be with a 4-5 hp that would be stored in a safe place on board and with a seperate fuel supply. I am only using the 18 in the Chesapeake Bay and not offshore like the Mako.

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I believe that the 130hp is on the way out. You better hurry!

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My use for the kicker would be primarily for slow lake trolling, getting home would be a secondary advantage for me.

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You should consider Mercury. (disclaimer - Mercury is the only outboard I have ever owned - now have 8 of them)

The 125 Optimax only weighs 380# in 25" shaft. This should provide about 42 MPH top end. They cost about 8K

The new Mercury large cube 150 EFi 4-stroke is 20# lighter than any Japanese brand, at 455#. Supposedly, it is more powerful also. They cost about 10K

And they have one of the finest matching 9.9HP kickers you can buy.

For 27 years I have run 610# of twin Merc 2-strokes on my 1986 Outrage 18, set back 10" and with batteries in the splash well, and the boat can easily handle the weight.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...4646557636

So any 150 with a kicker should be acceptable. But if you want to stay light, and for the least amouint of money, that 3-star 125 Optimax is a bargain worth considering.

Evinrude had to drop the 130 V-4 E-tec (and similar 115HO) because of 3-star rating problems and mechanical difficulties relating to some exhaust valve which supposedly provided the extra HP over the conventional 115. Guess it didn't work ouit so well, even after the long time it took to bring to market.

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I hear so many people wanting to go the 4 strokes and I scratch my head. The new 2 strokes Merc and Evinrude offer everthing as the 4 strokes plus better torque and the same gas performance as the 4 strokes over all. The Evinrude has no maintance for the first 300 hrs. or three years. No oil changes ever. Way less moving parts, less weight and 5 yr warranty. Look at the two strokes. I got my 130 hp Evinrude for 10600.00. I don't know what the 4 strokes go for. I can recommend dealer on the west coast that I got my pricing at.

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Plenty of options to choose from for sure, and a bunch of considerations to ponder. As you can see, many of us don't want 500# on our transoms, and some are happy with 610#.

The Outrage was designed for a 375#, 150hp two stroke, or pair of 230# 70's. My take, and many others too, us this boat handles best with less than 500# on the transom. But it is a foam filled Whaler, and will float more if you want more.

Re powering is a big investment, so would recommend spending a few evenings reading all the threads about re powering an Outrage 18. This will empower you to make a reasonably well informed decision.

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X2 on the last 2 posts, well said... Research as much as you can before deciding.

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I haven't included the 125 Optimax in the list because it is not CARB3 rated.

We can't run those motors on many waters in California and other states may change their regulations in the future.

My suggestion for buying any new motor, is to make sure it is the cleanest motor available which is CARB3 rated at this time.

Yamaha 115 and a Yamaha F9.9 kicker
408 plus 89 = 493 pounds

E-Tec 115 and a 9.8 kicker
390 plus 82 = 472 pounds

Mercury and Suzuki, I think you can figure the rest out according to the list depending on which ones you choose.

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Joe, I am going to use a tilt/trim electric /pull start version of the Yamaha 9.9 that is the reason it weighs a bit more than the 88 lbs in my calculations.

I can't thank the person who suggested I search the site for Yamaha 115 Outrage 18 performance. Found a gold mine of info! Followed a link from PhilT here to another site where the whole EXACT scenario I am considering is discussed to death! Spent over an hour just reading! I even got a prop to spec from Tom Clark for my exact application if I go with the Yamaha 115. I didn't have to ask! Apparently he's already been there and done that:)

Finnegan, I really would like to stay with a US manufacturer such as Mercury, but...well...I had a Mercury one time back in 1990's...I am sure they are much more reliable now...let's just say me and a Mercury in my past could absolutely NOT get along. I was towed 2 times with only 56 hrs on the one I had, the last time was from 6 miles offshore into Freeport. I got a great trade in value for that one the next day...exactly 62% of what I had to pay for it new on the boat. It appears you have had much better luck than I have, or for that matter, anyone I know personally with Mercury.

The reason I want to go to 4-stroke power now as opposed to the 2-stroke option is that the 4 strokes, at least in our area here, hold their value and last longer than the 2 strokes. Whether this is based in facts or not, opinion in my area is that generally when run equally as hard, a 4 stroke outboard will last at least 2 times as long. I really have no idea if this is true myself, but all the Texas Gulf Coast outboard guys that I know tell me this. Since they appraise value of outboards professionally, I have to consider what they say.
The E-Tecs have a really bad reputation for various reasons locally on the coast where I do business. For example, While I was hanging around yesterday getting in the way at the shop, one of the local professional guides in the Palacios TX area and I were discussing outboard repowering. I mentioned how I had heard nothing but good about E-Tec's, he started bending my ear. I do not know personally if anything he said was true, but I know he does a LOT of fishing out of boats and he has to have 100% reliability in his business. He tells me that the E-Tec uses a water cooled ECM. He says that this ECM containment is a weak link, and that saltwater corrosion will cause big troubles quick. Apparently, he did not think that running a saltwater cooling stream circulating in the engine around the ECM was a very good idea. I repeat, I don't know if this is true about these engines, but what people think of them directly affects what they are worth. For all I know, ALL outboards could be cooling their ECM's with saltwater. I DO know I liked the E-Tec specs better than any other when I looked at the numbers on paper, the alternator amps alone is a big plus.

I like the Yamaha controls and instrument systems the best out of any brand I have considered, but I am still trying to figure out how they interface with my Garmin electronics package and autopilot. Still searching for interface compatibility specs...I know this info has to be somewhere. I can't find any clear answers to this on the outboard manufacturers sites so I am going to Garmin for answers before making my final decision.

I will probably never sell my Outrage. I will have at least 20 times what its worth to anyone else invested in it when I complete my project here. I will leave this boat to my Grandkids when I'm gone, and I don't want them to have any clearcut evidence that Pappy was addled at this early of an age:) Even if this might be true:)


Oh, BTW, I will have a complete set of worn out teak doors from the super console that will need a good home when I am done with all this, I ordered a complete new set of all doors and compartments today for mine from Mike at Nautical Lumber. The personal page here was invaluable while we were discussing what I needed, I just directed him to my personal site where he could clearly see what I needed precisely while we were on the phone. Another fine example of how the personal pages here are priceless, thanks Joe!

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Go over to the etecownersgroup.com website and do some reading to see how misinformed that guide is. There's also a fair amount of Etec owners from Tx on there too who would be more than happy to answer any questions you might have as a prospective buyer.

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I have a 1992 outrage 19 I....basically same boat as the the classic outrage 18. I recently repowered with the suzuki 140. I was attracted to 4 stroke technology, less maintenance, weight of the motor (420 lbs), and price (and additional 3 yrs of warranty). Performance is close to the original evinrude 150 I replaced. In regards to weight in the stern, I also have a 100 lb livewell in the stern....thats 520 lbs not including 2 adults fishing.....as stated in an earlier comment, flotation is excellent and the added weight is not an issue. I think the boat rides better with a little added weight in the stern....
All the brands are good, continue to do your research and choose the motor that fits your needs best....

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Don't forget to add another 40 pounds for that other battery for the electric start on that kicker.

No need for you to calculate anything.
All the weights are listed on the manufactures page and in our list.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=7

Yamaha 9.9 = 93 pounds
Yamaha 9.9 High Thrust = 102 pounds
Again, don't forget to add another 40 pounds for the battery.

Me personally, I have no use for another battery for electric start.
Have you seen my article here?
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48

My moto: KISS
Keep It Simple Simon
and the less weight the better.

Whatever Floats Your Boat

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I already keep 4 batteries under my console, 2for the 24V system and 1 for starting, 1 spare. I never have had batteries in the transom area even though I know that was the way they were originally. I like the ride of the boat with more weight in the center. I don't plan on carrying any more batteries with the addition of electric start kicker, I'll just utilize my spare for that.

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Silentpardner,
Did you concider the new Suzuki DF140A ? Only 396 pounds and timing chain instead of a timing belt which meens lower maintenance costs.
http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%2...F140A.aspx
Joe, you need to update/ add the weight for DF140A
No need for a kicker when you have 4-stroke, or?
I've heard only good things about Suzuki.

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Actually, the boat guy I use recommended that option immediately when we first discussed the repower. He uses Suzuki engines on at least half of the boats he builds. The 140 that you mention is the highest HP for the weight that I have found and I have and am considering this option, currently researching kickers that match. It is important to me to match a 9.9 to whatever brand I go with as closely as possible, and this has pretty much eliminated the E-Tec from my options already.

Incidentally, the guide I talked about in an earlier post in this thread at Palacios TX uses nothing but Suzuki engines on his high speed flats boats, and thinks they are the best engines being built today. He uses boats that have tunnel designs with jack-plated 250-350 hp engines on them and runs extremely hi-speeds in water less than 1' deep. Apparently, these Suzukis are the go-to motors for most of the hard run professional boats along the coast currently, (I see a LOT of them in the bays where I fish), and the 140 is definitely on my research list.

Incidentally, it is my understanding that Johnson and Suzuki have either merged or partnered on these motors, and most of the guys I know refer to these motors as "Johnzukis" in my area :)

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I'm a fan of that 140 as well. It's main shortcoming compared to the 150's is that it has much less torque, due to being a 2.0 litre compared to 2.6-2.9 for the various 150's. This translates to higher RPM for a given speed when compared to a 150, but owners still praise the DF140 as being very economical to operate. I suspect it would perform similarly to your old engine, while being much quieter and easier on fuel.

Note some markets have an updated DF140a this year, which is 15# lighter than the previous generation (407# for the 25" shaft version). I've yet to find proof of the DF140a being available in North America.
EDIT: DF140A now listed in US website: http://www.suzukimarine.com/Product%2...F140A.aspx
full details on the updates here: http://www.suzuki.is/2013/OBM/Product...44-041.pdf

The Johnsuki story is an old one, no longer relevant. Johnson re-branded Suzukis while they perfected their e-tecs for market. I believe this was for just a few years, and ended around 2005.

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Petrus,

The Suzuki 140A weighs 407 pounds for the 25" shaft model which is what the Outrage 18' uses.

Personally, I would not use my brand new expensive, large hp engine, to troll all day long.
Why put all those hours on a large motor just for trolling?
That is another nice thing about having a trolling motor.
The second is having an emergency backup to get home with or at least maybe out of harms way.

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Joe,
You have to admit 407 pounds is pretty good as well ; ).
If you are trolling for a whole day , I agree, a kicker would be better.

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Yeah, I just went through all the websites and specs on 1-13-13 and the 140A was not listed at that time.

I just updated our page again showing the new weight of 407 pounds.
Yes, that is a good weight.

Now along with the DF9.9A kicker at 93 pounds, not a bad combo.

Suzuki
DF140A @ 407 pounds
DF9.9A @ 93 pounds
Total = 500 pounds

Yamaha
115 @ 408 pounds
F9.9 @ 89
Total = 493 pounds

Evinrude
115 @ 390 pounds
9.8 @ 82 pounds
Total = 472 pounds

I will let someone else figure out the Mercury brand and a kicker.
Honda would be too heavy with a kicker in my opinion.

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Suzuki of America (or whatever they call it) recently declared bankruptcy and is stiffing their American creditors for about $500,000,000 in uncollectible debt.

Has the Bankruptcy Court now approved them to sell outboards under a different shell corporation, still making profits while others take a bath at their hands?

I would not buy an engine from people that operate like this. We all pay for the losses to our economy inflicted by this type of behavior. One can be either part of the problem or part of the solution.

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Hi SP- I'm not going to get into the motor wars (other than to take issue with the Optimax being called "new") but I can tell you that the Yamaha was VERY easy to integrate with my Lowrance GPS head. I don't have Garmin experience, but a quick search on Garmin Yamaha engine interface cable turned up lots of stuff. If your existing setup is NMEA-based, I think it will just be a matter of getting the right pigtail to connect to the motor. For my setup, I didn't even need to go NMEA, just used Yamaha command link parts and connected from the Command Link bus straight to the GPS. I really like having the full suite of data, including water pressure, temperature, and mileage.

Tim

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Tim,

All I see is a Johnson in your personal page.
Did you put a new Yamaha on your 15' ?

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I did Joe - put an F70LA on, I think it was in the fall of 2010. It's actually on there in some of the photos, but all you can see is the controls.

As I recall, I put some links to progress photos in some postings at the time.

Tim

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Oh Finnegan...

A Suzucury is just decals away, being the paint is already jet black.

What is the best Mercury main plus kicker engine combination for the Outrage 18?

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Mark,

Also see this other thread I started for Outrage 18' with a kicker.
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...pid=107679

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I purchased a 2012 suzuki df 140 just before they officially declared bankruptcy.....Fortunately, the outboard division is going strong. Suzuki did send a letter with their intentions and future goals. They also sent money honoring a rebate promotion going on at the same time. In my area, on the west coast of Florida, suzuki motors are seen everywhere ( new boats and on older boats as a re-power). It's not uncommon to see commercial boats with suzuki motors with thousands of hours. The technology is proven and the price is inviting. The suzuki 140 was the right choice for me....I would do it all over again. Engine weight has not been an issue at all....I was overly concerned with that during the decision making process.
All the brands are good, its personal preference.....the suzuki 140 is another good option.....

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rwethereyet,

So can we assume you do not have the newer DF140A model that weighs less the the DF140?

I think the DF140 weighed in at around 421 or 427 pounds

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that is correct.... I have the DF 140, not the DF 140A

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Rwethereyet,
What else can you add to your repower experience? Does it feel like the 140 has to be revved alot at cruise speeds? Do you troll with it? We're there any disappointments at all with the change?
Thank you,

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I'm running a one of the new Mercury 150 Fourstrokes on my 18 Outrage, along with a kicker and with a separate portable tank that I keep in the splash well. I haven't noticed any problems with the weight. So far the motor has proven reliable and durable(I've now hit both logs and rocks with it) and it is exceptionally fuel efficient while being very strong in the power department.

Good luck with your repower, I should think you will be happy with any modern motor and I think having great local dealer support should be one of the most important factors when selecting a motor.

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ericflys,

Which kicker are you using?
See this thread and maybe you can give us more info.
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...pid=107679

Mercury FourStroke 150 = 465 to 470 pounds
Mercury kicker ?

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I have an older 15hp Mercury kicker that weighs about 75lbs, not including the six gallon portable tank that I use for it.

A lighter weight solution would be to run 9.9 Fourstroke that could run off the main tank, as my Racor filter has two outlets and one could be run to the kicker. The downside would be that if your problem is fuel related, both motors would be down.

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My boat is the same hull as the outrage 18. I fish 90% of time on the west coast of florida. The original engine was 1992 evinrude 150. Initially, I was ultra concerned with engine weight--I also run with a 100+ lb livewell in the stern. The suzuki 140 was thousands less than any of the 150's (including the suzuki 150), less weight, offering an additional 3 years of service, and an additonal $ 500 rebate--It all made sense to me. The motor is smooth, quiet, and extremely fuel efficient. It is not a 6 cylinder 150--the motor does feel less torquey in the midrange. Cruising speed does require higher RPM's. Its not problematic in any way. Top speed WOT with a full livewell and 2 adults is 41-42 mph. I love the reliability and performance is not an issue at the low, middle, or high range....I would make the same decision if I had to do it all over again. I think the suzuki 140 is a great option for thousands less than any 150. For anyone considering a 150, engine weight is really not an issue. All the brands are good...it's personal preference......(just make sure your area is represented well---for service related issues)

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I would like to thank everyone that has responded to this thread VERY much. I have considered every input and researched each idea and suggestion thoroughly, and I am still thinking, but I am probably going to go with the Yamaha option for the controls and network compatibility and proven performance and durability. I have not actually placed the order yet as the Outrage is still disassembled and it will be a while before it is ready for the motors. When I place the order for the engines, I'll post the final decision.

This thread truly exemplifies the value of this site , and again, thank you all very much!

Joe, my boat guy doesn't think the motor and kicker will both mount on the transom without interfering with my trim tabs, but thanks to the pictures from your project and others, I think I can convince him, and I really thank you for the illustration of that project. I don't think I have ever posted this before, but your Outrage 18 has got to be one of the best set up on the site and has been a real inspiration in my project. Thanks for this site, and thanks for your personal work illustrations.

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Well, the 1986 Outrage 18 refit and repower continue. I have decided to go with a Yamaha F-115 four stroke, and a Yamaha 9.9 HT, (electric start and power tilt) as a gasoline fueled trolling motor/kicker. I am going to mount the F-115 3 holes up and use the Yamaha 13" X 17P black stainless steel prop, at least for a start, that I got in the mail yesterday. I have purchased both motors and have them at Palacios TX ready to be installed and rigged right now.

We have decided to completely remove the Lenco trimtabs from the boat and mount the 2 motors on the transom as recommended by Boston Whaler.

The bottom of the hull and the transom have been completely restored to new condition, and the results are truly awesome. It is currently covered with protective plastic with the boat flipped over on a work trailer in the boat yard. I have added a couple of pictures of this to my Flickr site set for the Outrage here : http://www.flickr.com/photos/99787852...428438304/

We have been waiting for the complete package of new wood for the hull and console to get made and delivered to start the work on the inside of the boat. I talked with Mike at Nautical Lumber last week by phone, and he has it all fabricated and finished, and shipped the gunnel lumber, both new and old rails, to us last week. We expect delivery at Palacios early this week. The console doors and wood needed 1 more day's work on the finish, and we expect them to be at Palacios next week. This woodwork has taken a LONG time! This wood should look awesome, and with Mike's reputation for craftsmanship, I don't expect to be disappointed.

We are going to completely restore the super console to brand new condition. All wiring on the boat will be replaced to new and modernized. I am installing spreader lights on the T-Top, both front and rear, and under gunnel interior floor lighting as well as helm lighting for night fishing use. There will be underwater green lights for fishing at night as well. The electronics will consist of a Garmin 741xs combination GPS chartplotter and CHIRP sounder with a Chirp transom mount transducer, and a Garmin VHF-200 radio. There will now be four batteries under the console, 1 marine start battery for each motor and 2 deep cycle marine Group 31's for the electric trolling motor and night fishing lighting.

The dealer installed original custom leaning post with 30 gallon baitwell and tackle center is also going to be completely refurbished. Instead of the glaring white it will be Whaler desert tan from now on. The plumbing and aeration system in the baitwell will also be completely new, with new pumps.

We are taking this refit opportunity to get that Minn Kota Riptide SP - 70 lb Thrust, 54" Shaft, 24V, i-Pilot - Wireless trolling motor situated permanently on the bow of the boat. Right now, I am using a Riptide Saltwater Quick-Release Trolling Motor Bracket, RTA - 19, to mount the motor straight off the end of the bow of the boat. This works very well for stability of the motor, due to it's location directly over the original bowbit mounting plate, but the motors position when not in use gets in our way in the inside front of the boat. We are going to build a new stable mounting plate for the trolling motor to allow it to be positioned and supported more conventionally at a diagonal along the bow curvature. The power supply wiring for this motor will also be completely hidden and out of the way on the deck. It will still be removable using the Quick-Release mounting bracket, but the mount's block will have it's own custom glassed in platform to be attached to.

I don't have the original bowbit that came with this boat, it was missing when I bought the boat. We will install a cleat or bit in the original location to facilitate anchoring at the bow. Even with the old lightweight Johnson 2 stroke that was on the boat originally, it was uncomfortable to be anchored in 1-3 ft chop from the stern. The boat would take on water, then drain, in the transom drain area every time a wave hit the transom.

The original fuel tank has been completely drained and cleaned out in preparation for the new 4 stroke engines as well. All new fuel system hoses, tubing, and supply lines will be installed. The tank itself appears to be in great condition. The deck on the boat is sound, and other than having considerable amounts of dirt buildup on it from underneath the console and leaning post, has no damage in need of repair or replacement. There is some spider-cracking on the interior outside of the non-slip checkering of the deck that will be repaired.

It appears that the whole project just might be completed before the end of this year after all, but it doesn't look like we will have it for the fall redfish run. My wife and I really love to use this boat back in the shallow water cuts with oyster-shell bottoms and large reefs that hold a lot of fish this time of year on the coast. I sure hope I don't grow too old before the project is completed to be able to get there again in this boat! Man, this project is sure taking a LOT more time than I expected :(
Well, SURELY we'll be able to hit the fish hard NEXT year!

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Well, I finally got some more pictures of the continuing, (seems like it is taking forever), project on my 1986 Boston Whaler Outrage 18. I visited the shop Saturday and took some more pictures of the progress to date.

There are a lot of headaches to come. I found that the 9.9 I spec'd for this project was not what I have received, it's a tiller handle, 25" shaft model, and we have got to have it remote controlled from the helm. The F-115 has been installed with the wrong guage and a single motor control. Tommy made some adjustments to the transom, in fiberglass, to accommodate the wrong 9.9, I am now looking for a kit to convert the tiller handle to remote and getting the guage and controls issue addressed.

The wood I have gotten for the console looks great! Only problem, Stennett has failed to include the swing down drawer to fill that smaller hole on the starboard side and the 2 teak floor trim strips. The fire extinguisher box was not a box at all, at least in Mike's world, so he just sent some trim to go around that hole. He still has my original gunnel caps, and he has never sent me the teak screw hole plugs for the unfinished gunnels he has sent.

I still have all my original console wood piled up there in the boat, looks like I may have to try my hand at restoring a few pieces to complete my console, at least until I can find new parts.

Tommy forgot to build a platform on the starboard side of the bow for my I-Pilot trolling motor, still on the punch list. LED lighting is ordered, but has not arrived yet. We still don't have the decals.

The bottom drain hole in the transom and all the new through hull brass has yet to be installed. The new rub rail track and the rubrail are there, still need to get installed.

The leaning post and baitwell still has to be completed and installed.

Lot's of headaches I have probably left out...but there has been progress!

Here's the link to the album that has the latest pictures of the project: https://www.flickr.com/photos/9978785...428438304/

The last pictures in this album are the latest.

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I don't see why you would accept a wrong order on the kicker. It should also be a 20" model. If it were mine, I would not accept a mistake like that.

Nautical Lumber must have assumed you had a later year console which has the plastic teak trimmed FE box.

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WOW, a 25 inch shaft.

A 20 inch is what you need. That is what I had on my Outrage 18'.
I'm sure you have seen this article:
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48

See near the bottom of the article for John Flook and his Yamaha's.

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Finnegan,
I wasn't there when the motor was received, I was away on business. I am sure you can understand that situation. I was not informed about the modifications being made...sort of.

The confusion began because I did want them to fabricate a modification on the bow of the boat for my electric trolling motor. When I was gone and checked in by telephone during the fabrication process, I was told all about the progress of the fabrication of the trolling motor mount on the boat. I assumed that he trolling motor mount being fabricated was the mount on the bow. I also assumed that the 9.9 would have been delivered to me as it was specified. I never opened the box/crate when I delivered this motor to Tommy, I just dropped it off with the also unopened crate with the correct 115.

I made a lot of assumptions in retrospect, and that led to the shop making a lot of assumptions...that has lead to me probably having to purchase another motor now. I do have that mint one to sell or trade to reduce my loss, but it is painful.

I made a serious mistake. I will have to deal with the consequences of this mistake. I am a big boy, I will handle it.

As far as the wood goes...I also made a serious mistake when I ordered and paid for in good faith something that had not been created yet from a person who, at that time, had been recently discredited in the classic whaler community. I had not heard of the problems everyone was having with him, and he certainly is a smooth operator on the phone. I didn't even know he had been dropped here as a sponsor until a few months later. By that time, it was too late.

I have to thank Sue at TWIN CITIES MARINE for assisting me in getting what I have now. She was the only person, and he has quite a few folks trying to make contact with him, that could get him to call back and send what I finally got. This wood was ordered well over a year ago, I got it at the end of last month. The whole episode with the wood was very trying, and I have realized that I made a mistake in dealing with a dishonest person for quite a while now.

I am a big boy, I can handle this problem as well.

This is my first big Boston Whaler custom refit project, and I have made mistakes. I have learned a lot already, and I expect to learn more as this continues. I can't blame anyone but myself.

Also, that 9.9 is not a kicker motor. I intend to use it for a specific type of trolling that requires that horsepower. I have access to a couple of freshwater lakes here in our area that have been stocked with Red Drum by the TPWD. The trolling method that I have been most successful with involves powering up speed rapidly and then powering down speed rapidly over schools of these fish in 40-50 feet of water while downrigging up to six rods at a time at about 25-35 feet depth. This method of trolling requires more power than simple slow trolling. If I ever get this project finished, I would certainly be very honored to demonstrate this technique to you if you get out this way, it is a LOT of fun to do :) My wife, kids, and grandkids love this!

Nautical Lumber, or more specifically, Mike Stennet, has photos of my console. I can assure you, he was, and is, aware of the need for my 1986 model fire extinguisher box to have been made out of wood. I have never seen any super console with an open hole in the starboard side with a frame built around it instead of the drop down door covering it...perhaps you have, I have not. Please note, the frame for this door was supplied, just the door was missing! I guess that somehow Mike's apparent theft of my original gunnel caps that he said he had to have in order to make the new ones is somehow acceptable? Have you ever seen a super console circa 1986 that did not have teak strips at the base as trim? I have not. There is no excuse for Mike, I am sorry. It is still my fault that I dealt with him. I will have to accept my responsibility in this matter and I will, no matter how bitter a pill this is. My Whaler will not suffer though.

I am building a custom Boston Whaler Outrage 18 boat here. I am using as much of the original design as possible, and using as much of the original boat components as possible, but this boat will be used for a lot of different specific needs for me personally. This boat was not ordered with anything other than the super console from the factory, and was dealer equipped to the original buyers spec in FL. It will still be similar to the original buyers spec when I am done with this project, with my own personal needs accommodated. I don't think I have ever seen some of the features I am incorporating in this rebuild applied to any Boston Whaler before.
The transom modification that has already been done to accommodate a 25" shaft 9.9 does not bother me at all, I need to be clear. This is a very nicely crafted modification. The problem with the motor at this point is it is tiller operated, not remote. This will be addressed and corrected, even if it requires me to purchase another engine. The bow mount for an I-Pilot electric trolling motor will also be addressed, and I am certain that the fiberglass work will be crafted at the highest standard for this mod as well. No rails have ever been on this boat, and there will never be any rails on it, at least, certainly, until after I am dead and gone. I have to have an open bow in order to use a cast net off the bow, just like the original owner.

The 30 gallon live well that is integrated into the custom leaning post with a tackle center will also be on this boat till after I am dead and gone. I intend to have it BW desert tan in color, as opposed to the original white, however. I need this baitwell to keep the bait I catch from the bow alive and healthy, just like that original owner did. I can, and will, transfer this bait to the big Whaler just before my grandkids and I head offshore. I will use this baitwell as a livewell when we toss crappie into it when we go night fishing in the TX lakes.

My point here is that this boat has always been, and will continue to be, a custom model, and a very personal boat. I intend to will it to my grandchildren. By the time this last transfer takes place, they will know intimately why every custom feature was incorporated, and most of all, how to use these features to have successful fishing trips in many different settings.
For this reason, the money and time I spend on this project is not an object of concern. I will gladly pay for my mistakes, while grumbling mostly to myself, for the return of passing on the sport I love. I know what it has meant to me to be able to enjoy this sport throughout my life, and I intend for this to be available to my progeny.

I guess there was bound to be mistakes made in this project by me when I think about it now, the project is me. I have made them all my life. :)

Sorry about the rambling explanation to the questions in your post above in my response, but I want you, and anyone else that reads this, to understand my passion.

You are always welcome onboard any of my boats. Please consider this as my personal invitation.

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Joe, and Finnegan,
I have already studied the examples illustrated exhaustively. I have emailed ALL the pictures of these examples to Tommy in the past to illustrate what I was looking for. Joe, feel free to completely delete that link if you want, it was unnecessary.

I ordered, and paid for, a 20" shaft 9.9 with electric tilt and trim and remote control. Of course. I have the purchase order right here, right now. This was not the problem here.

My mistake, in this matter, was negligence. I was too busy making money to watch over this project as it evolved. It's too late to do anything now but pick up the pieces and move forward. I have a business that is very intense during certain months of the year, but it is also very lucrative. To complicate matters, the schedule on this project had 3 major setbacks.

1st schedule delay was the wood. Trust me, there are many more details here that I have not, and do not plan to, discuss publically. The project progress was held up a year just as a result of the Stennet factor. A lot of communication was lost during this time within the project. It happens when things drag on.
2nd problem was of a personal nature for Tommy at the shop. I refuse to accept that I should have pressured him for the sake of my project, given his situation.
3rd problem was that I was trying to do too many Boston Whaler projects at once. I purchased and retrieved a beautiful Whaler 27 FC WD from Wisconsin, repowered it, and completely upgraded the fuel and electrical systems, and the electronics as well. I am the 3rd owner of this boat.
Everything will be fine, it is just going to take some more time and effort to complete the project.

I had no problem understanding what needed to be done here, I just wasn't there enough to supervise the progress, when it suddenly occurred after the wood started arriving. Neither Tommy or myself were available for this function through no fault of our own, and the shop hands may have been forced to start making some decisions above their pay grade due to our absence. I should have shut the project down and did not. My mistake.

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I had almost the same experience (but worse) with a brand new Mercury, NEVER again. After three years of misery I sold the boat. My Yamaha's haven't given me any problems at all.

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whalerbob,

Thanks for the comment and the refreshment of my memory :)

I don't think I have made a mistake with the engine brand choice, that's for sure :) Those new motors sure look good on that transom, don't you think? :)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9978785...491583884/

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Yesterday, I made another visit to the shop. We think we can use that 9.9 as a remote controlled troller. The Yamaha rigging supplier is working on a solution.

While there standing around just looking, we noticed that the T-top accessory box was still white. Tommy is going to remove this and gelcoat it BW desert tan when we add the new audio components.

Overall, it appears, even though we are still not out of the woods completely, that everything will be fine. I know I feel much better now :)