Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Outrage mechanical fuel gauge

Posted by tothemax on 05/22/12 - 4:20 PM
#1

I pulled the Rochester mechanical gauge on my 18' I didn't realize the gauge was separate from the mechanism - I'm guessing it's the magnetic version. All of the mechanical parts seem to be working fine, the gauge itself was rusted and had moisture inside. The float is cork and after 25 years probably could use replacing.

Is there a way to test the mechanism, paperclip maybe? I'm calling Rochester tomorrow, but thought I would check here first.

Thanks in advance...

Max

Posted by contender250 on 05/22/12 - 5:29 PM
#2

Quit wasting you time and purchase a new one...25 years old it does not own you anything...

Posted by tothemax on 05/23/12 - 8:28 AM
#3

FYI: For anyone is looking for this part - it has been replaced with a universal unit Rochester part number 6580-00151 one distributor in Virginia is eComponents (800) 640-1556 - POC Tammy. The price was $78 for the complete assy.

I'll post if there are any issues with this part.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 05/23/12 - 9:24 AM
#4

How does it compare to this?
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=826

Any photos of the parts you purchased?

Posted by tothemax on 05/23/12 - 9:51 AM
#5

I'm hoping that is exactly it... it's shipping today and I'll confirm when it gets here. I spoke with the Rochester service dept. in Texas and they gave me the PN and contact info.

Posted by sammidog on 05/23/12 - 10:59 AM
#6

Lol. Im so cheap. I found the cork in mine to weight about twice what it should so replaced it with a cork stopper about the same diameter. I coated it with thinned west system epoxy, measured how nuch gas was in the rank to make sure ut read correctly and i'm up and running. $1.50 cork ant the epoxy i had.

Posted by tothemax on 05/23/12 - 11:49 AM
#7

All of the mechanics in mine is fine, but the top where the guage sits has a fair amount of corrosion and the gauge is shot. I don't want any leaks down the road so $78 + shipping is fine if it's the right part. Also the arm on mine is so short that it had to be reading full for the first 4 inches from the top of the tank - the new adjustable version may allow for a little more accuracy

Edited by tothemax on 05/23/12 - 11:50 AM

Posted by dreilly on 05/24/12 - 8:13 AM
#8

Sammi - if it makes you feel any better, in a pinch I used 2 wine corks and trimmed them to fit into the tank and match buoyancy of the old float.

Posted by sammidog on 05/24/12 - 10:51 AM
#9

Ugh! I spent $1.50 too much. Lol

Posted by tedious on 06/01/12 - 10:57 AM
#10

Max, did you get the gauge? The one on my sister-in-law's 18 doesn't move at all, so trying to help her with it.

Tim

Posted by tothemax on 06/01/12 - 11:38 AM
#11

Hopefully it will arrive today... I'll post a picture once it arrives.

Max

Posted by tedious on 06/01/12 - 11:41 AM
#12

Thanks Max - also interested in whether it comes with gaskets, etc - in other words, a turnkey op.

I noticed that on Rochester's site they have options like a stainless steel or aluminum float - did you stay with the stock rubber?

Tim

Posted by tothemax on 06/04/12 - 11:01 AM
#13

Called today - part was never shipped. Had to re-order. Should arrive on Wed.

Max

Edited by tothemax on 06/04/12 - 11:01 AM

Posted by Sjoconnor on 06/09/12 - 10:45 AM
#14

Any luck getting the part? I'm about to make a decision on replacing mine.

Edited by Sjoconnor on 06/09/12 - 10:46 AM

Posted by tothemax on 06/09/12 - 7:10 PM
#15

It arrived yesterday - and it is a universal fit with a 30" arm and a plastic float. No directions came with it - it looks like you bend the arm to shape then crimp the arm so the float stays in place. There are two small flat washers, one on each side of the float so a small crimp will keep the float in place. It's very well made and comes with four new mount screws and a new rubber flange gasket. It looks like the correct one, it will be hard to tell until I adjust the float arm correctly. I'm hoping to get it installed today...

FYI: It worked out to about $88 with shipping.

Here's some pix:

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0901.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0900.jpg

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0899.jpg

Edited by tothemax on 06/10/12 - 7:46 AM

Posted by tedious on 07/09/12 - 6:51 AM
#16

Max, how did this work out, finally? I'm getting ready to order one, but just wanted to double check that it did the job for you. And any installation tricks would be helpful too. Thanks!

Tim

Posted by contender250 on 07/09/12 - 7:07 AM
#17

Told you.....

Posted by tothemax on 07/09/12 - 9:58 AM
#18

Got caught up with other projects - will probably get to the install in a week or so and will post anything I find out during the install. It looks pretty straight forward.

Needed to make sure that hull work was done and the engine running, and the deck sealed before getting carried away with interior stuff.

This boat really needed some TLC...

Edited by tothemax on 07/09/12 - 9:59 AM

Posted by tothemax on 07/22/12 - 7:41 PM
#19

Did the new gauge install today - that aftermarket part had to be modified to work for me. First off the rod is going the wrong direction first attempt (picture 1) I did a 90 degree bend, eventualoly I had to bend it 180 degrees for it to work in my tank. I was able to do that (see the side by side with the old unit). I tried to match the angles so that it woulkd read similarly - very hard to match since the replacement unit is much shorter than the original.

The 2.5" depth does work with my tank and appears to give enough clearance to register - I felt around with a rod and did not find a baffle in the gauge area.

When I tried to install my 180 degree modified unit the bend was tto wide and it would not go into the tank, I carefully tried to modify it with pliers and vice grips but the rod broke at the hard bend.

I was able to drill the old rod out of the unit and clear the pressed area and luckily there is plenty of rod that ships with the unit. I made a single bend in my vice and reinserted and crimped the unit and it was a much better fit and function. My tank flange had a few areas with slight corrosion so I used a thin smear of RTV blue gaskit seal.

From start to finish about 4 hours

Old and new side by side - with the first 90 degree bend

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0934.jpg

Another side by side

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0932.jpg

Final version:

http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m...G_0939.jpg

Edited by tothemax on 07/22/12 - 7:46 PM

Posted by chucklewis100 on 07/10/16 - 8:00 PM
#20

I just opened my 1988 Outrage 18's fuel gauge, as the mechanical part was stuck and attached is a photo of what was inside. Looks like the Rochester 6500 in another post I read. I was able to get it working and replaced the magnetic part on top with an exact item I purchased from Nauset Marine. They sell them on e-bay as well. Once I reassembled it all, it works great.

Edited by chucklewis100 on 07/10/16 - 8:03 PM