Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Have Paint Will Travel
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/07/11 - 6:35 PM
#1
It has come to my attention that my original thread
My Girl's Refit was getting too large and took a lot of time for some of our PC's to load.
I have added a poll to this new chapter into this refit
just for the pleasure of giving brief inputs.
Question: Would you use Gell or Paint for your own refit?
On the North West front.
I did take advantage of the pleasant weather today and spent three hours sanding the decking s and gunwale sides of the deck areas.
400 grit gave me enough control on the DA to stay within depth and to render the areas smooth and new.
The detail involved was surprisingly easy in comparing it the curved surfaces from the cap structures.
Corners and recesses will be done last with manual sandings.
The work has progressed rather nicely and buffing with a cutting compound will be the next step.
Got to run, good for now.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/07/11 - 6:40 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/08/11 - 6:19 AM
#2
There is a lot to be said about the"art" of sanding
And this specifically working with Polyester resin.
I did find that the feel of the hand to the structures gave more of an actual feel leading to zeroing in on the coarseness spots of the areas
And laying down while sanding gave a more precise product where the 90' plus, where deck and inside gunwales met.
Turning your head just so produced a different angle and bead to the structures and allowed you to see all remaining dimples.
These were soon dispatched with the 400.
Ha!
One of my favorite sayings comes to mind
"We shall not concentrate on the work that lay before us but rather to the work that has so very well been accomplished."
More to come.
PS-An opinion is as similar as the nose on your face
Everybody has one.
Please vote.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/08/11 - 6:20 AM
Posted by Gamalot on 10/08/11 - 7:05 AM
#3
I am missing something in these processes and can't quite put my finger on the problems. I have watched and helped a friend while he was painting his classic Porche with some extremely expensive auto paint. The project was rather tedious and done in a very high tech paint booth. It came out gorgeous and there was a considerable amount of sanding and buffing to get the finish to perfection. In total I would say he spent 2 full days prepping, taping, spraying, sanding, buffing and finishing.
My experience with GC is minimal to date and has been a real PITA!
Where I and I think others here are missing something is in the process. I have never watched a boat builder such as BW in the process of spraying GC on a new hull. Something tells me they do not and can not spend the hours of time we seem to in getting a new hull sprayed and ready for the show room floor. Does anyone here believe BW has a hull in the paint booth and on the finishing line for the hours upon hours we tend to spend? Can we honestly believe BW goes through all these steps of sanding with various grit papers and then buffing with all the different preparations and finally waxing after waiting around for GC to set up and dry?
I honestly don't believe it has to be this difficult a process and that a boat manufacturer could not possibly spend as much time and effort as we seem to have to. I know we have member who previously worked for BW or other manufacturers and someone with this knowledge could possibly step up and explain the process. I would love to hear from someone such as Chuck Bennett as to how much time it takes the factory to get a bare hull fully sprayed and finished. I certainly understand they are set up with all the gear and equipment to do this process in streamlined fashion but I am having a very hard time believing they go through all the trials and tribulations we have when doing it.
As far as the poll question goes, I don't know which way to vote as I believe the time and effort is equal either way but I would always opt to go with the factory finish if at all possible.
Posted by zappaddles on 10/08/11 - 7:36 AM
#4
GC is sprayed onto the mold before any of the structural related glasswork is done. The quality of the GC finish is then related to the smoothness of the mold.
The more blimish free the mold is the less hand work there is to produce the beautiful GC finish BW is known for.
With only having experience with GC on a boat I can't attest to anything related to a painted hulls surface. You might want to consider GCing the interior and hull cap and painting the outside of the hull. This method would allow the attendant scratches from foot traffic, dragged coolers, anchors etc. to be repaired with seemless results. A repaired painted surface is much more difficult to repair with seemless results.
Zap
Posted by Blackduck on 10/08/11 - 7:45 AM
#5
I would paint, unless it was a small repair. I question how good the bond is on re- gel coating, and the labor is just mind blowing. Try driving a screw into a re-gel coated surface, may times the new gel coat will separate from the old, no matter how well the surface was prepped.
Edited by Blackduck on 10/08/11 - 7:51 AM
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/17/11 - 4:44 PM
#7
More detailing today
Fish box at back proved to be a bit more work that I had anticipated
One point to be mentioned will be that
Upon sanding one of the inside wall surface
I did come upon a "bubble" that flaked off upon sanding.
The size was about a dime in circ.
The one and only flaking experienced in all surfaces.
The under lay proved to be the red glazing putty.
I would advise to not use this product as the drying will be extremely slow and sometimes will not dry at all.
A careful hand touch up will be done today and sanded smooth tomorrow.
Instead I would recommend to use either a vynilester or white filler mentioned in my original thread.
Time invested will pay of in regard to the finished product.
Posted by Derwd24 on 10/17/11 - 6:18 PM
#8
I always thought I'd go with gelcoat. but given all the issues you guys are having in the "Getting Ready to Spray Gelcoat" thread below, I'd have to vote for paint now. (Unless it was an 11' or 13' hull...)
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...owstart=20
Posted by gusgus on 10/17/11 - 6:42 PM
#9
If I had the money, time, or willingness to dedicate myself for the inordinate amount of time I read about. How the process was repeated and repeated to find it required another 5 gallons to be "absolutely perfect" after the last ten gallons weren't enough already. I say with certainty I will paint. Plus I have yet to read about an anti fouling gel coat. So I will do all I can to return the hull to the form it was designed to be, but paint is just easy and one heck of a lot cheaper.
Posted by contender250 on 10/17/11 - 7:02 PM
#10
Nothing is wrong with painting a boat if it is done correctly and with the right materials. I just redid two whalers (1978 11, 1975 16) both were painted with awl-grip. Both boats were sanded, primed and painted, sanded and painted again. The other reason is I have never done gel-coat, and I understand it cost more, but I do not know for sure cause I know the awl-grip was not cheap...
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/18/11 - 7:21 PM
#11
Careful hand detailing in sanding today.
The indent between the rear fish box and inner stern section was carefully sanded to remove unwanted features.
The drain tube ports were sanded smooth removing residuals from spray.
The main idea and point to remember will be to keep in mind that this thread is not meant to discourage anyone from working with Polyester gell and resin.
The point of the whole adventure will be.
To
1-Have a recounting of my personal works.
2-Hopefully enjoy distractions from the daily grind.
3-Possibly get some pointers.
4-Laugh your ass off reading about this guy trying to hit the pinata.
5-Relate and understand that careful and attentive work has a sure way to pay dividends.
6-To understand that your project refit will give you satisfaction while doing the work AND bring a smile while thinking about solutions for the next step.
It is not so much about Paint or Gel Coat
It will be primarily about prepping to surfaces properly enough to receive the final skin.
Paint does not require sanding afterwards but Gell will
Therefore the extra details.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/18/11 - 8:26 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/23/11 - 6:13 AM
#12
In the last few days
I have been working on my Mahogany fish tub cover and my RPS wood surfaces.
Careful and detailed sanding removed all traces of stains,varnish and oxidation.
Two coats of Epoxy West System showed excellent sealing and shine.
A point to remember will be
1- To sand lightly between coats and erasing small protrusions.
2-To apply the Epoxy only while the surfaces are flat thus preventing the clear to run.
This will save you some extra sanding and touch ups.
I may apply some varnish later in order to give it a harder finish.
Brand suggestions?
I have been studying as to the proper part s to ad to the transom in order to be able to tow or to possibly lift the stern from two "eyes"
I am wondering as to what Perko or Whaler OEM parts may be available for this duty.
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/23/11 - 6:15 AM
Posted by ritzyrags on 02/08/12 - 5:05 PM
#13
It seems that the time is actually right to give another chat to this favorite Man folly of boat refitting; "My Everlasting Beauty" the Classic Outrage 19-1975.
And yes, more photos will be posted as soon as possible.
Night shift being done with
I do find myself typing with coffee in my housecoat while the Wife is religiously tuning to her favorite soap.
The latest weeks have been spent looking for parts for the refit.
A long sought set of Merc gauges originally from Puerto Rico were graciously farmed out to me from Captain Jim Mc Padden.
May the Good Lord and all the Saints in Heaven always keep an eye on him and his Crew.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/...6585f.jpg/
Another big Thank You to Gary Lothrop for sharing in his original console set of rod holders.
I did spend a few hours prepping them up for a permanent finish.
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/...0586m.jpg/
Always a pleasure to help each others when in need.
Halls Nautical was contacted for an order of console and 94Qts cooler cushions.
Sorry to see them retire after years of first rate services to so many Whaler owners.
My mind has been spanning subject of garnishing of Mahoganies and Teaks and the ever resurfacing fact that I will have to equip my stern with a first rate jack plate to recouple my Mercury to the renewed aft sections.
Edited by ritzyrags on 02/08/12 - 5:49 PM
Posted by Binkie on 02/08/12 - 7:23 PM
#14
An old boat painter told me that a blind man would make a better sander than a sighted one, Makes sense, the smoothness of the finish must be felt with the hand, and cannot be seen with the eye.
Posted by kamie on 02/08/12 - 8:03 PM
#15
Binkie,
I was told something similar about refinishing furniture, if you want to know that all the old finish has been removed and the piece sanded and ready for the new finish, just close your eyes and run your hands across it. It's amazing how our sense of touch can pick out imperfections that our eyes miss.
Posted by Gamalot on 02/09/12 - 5:54 AM
#16
The majority of my furniture building is with Oak. The trick with this wood is to get the final finish sanded as smooth as possible and then raise the grain by wiping it down with a damp rag. Sand it again by hand and do it again until you can feel no rough spots at all. My final trick is to get it finished to the best of my touch and then have my wife feel it up all over with softer hands. She can easily find spots that my rough hands just can't detect. There is nothing more frustrating than to apply the finish coat only to have it bring out sanding swirls and lines.
Posted by ritzyrags on 03/02/12 - 12:39 PM
#17
Winter has been a rather mild one with plenty of Pineapple express systems roaring by.
Parts have been sought and received for the project here.CPT Jim sent gauges,console rod holders from Gary and Bow Eyes from Yorick in the Netherlands.
The Igloo cooler 94 was located and MILLS cushions were ordered from Harry and Lois.
Bow locker questions remains to be solved.
In regard to the front anchor locker question
Upon prepping my unit for resurfacing
I had to remove two stainless coil springs that were attached to each sides within the recess.
And then when I did inspect a 1972 Whaler 19 as a prospect for purchase
I did view a type of locking mechanism involving said springs into making both doors to stay into an open position when being "locked".
If unable to locate these parts I will have to fabricate a "system" to meet my needs.
Until later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 03/02/12 - 1:48 PM
Posted by sdespop on 03/02/12 - 3:38 PM
#18
To paint or gelcoat depends on whether the boat will live in the water or be trailered. Finish paints such as Awlgrip or Interlux won't hold up below the waterline if left in the water for over 72 hours. As my 15 Sport lives on a trailer, I opted for Interlux Perfection, a 2 part polyurethane paint. Easy to apply with roller & tip method or, if you fave a good respirator, by spraying and the finish is very hard and durable. Finish sanding with very fine wet paper gives it a nice gloss.
Posted by ritzyrags on 03/04/12 - 4:40 AM
#19
I have managed to locate the 94 QTS Igloo marine cooler at West Marine and too the trip to pick it up yesterday.
I did find the store staff to be professional and helpful in my need for these parts.
Posted by ritzyrags on 05/16/12 - 12:36 PM
#20
Had to manage to keep the project alive and this while being overwhelmed by domestic duties.
Large sections of fencing were blown down by killer winds this Early spring.
I still managed to address the resurfacing of my Mahoganies and Teaks.
I did enjoy using and epoxy product called System Three.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1416
The work invested has been fun and rewarding.Will have to get some duties out of the way and start reassembling ASAP.
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/22/12 - 1:12 PM
#21
I have been working hard at resurfacing the last of my Teaks and Mahoganies on my work details of late.
The desired glass like finish has been obtained.
Upon reassembling the port and starboard three part wing like shelves
I came to realize that the braces supporting the front sections to the inner hull were not furnished with my model.
I am looking for possible used replacements and exact dimensions to the parts.
I will thank Larry for lending his photo and will be keen to hear of your hints at success in locating both those braces to bring to conclusion this area of the refit.
http://mmg.photobucket.com/albumview/....html?o=51
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/24/12 - 12:30 PM
#22
Well it seems that I will have to improvise a solution one more time and approximate the dimensions for these two identical pieces of teak.
More to come later, I am sure.
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/30/12 - 9:39 PM
#23
A moment to be remembered today as I did get to finalize a heavy work load and got back to business on the Classic.
If this keeps up folks I may be on my way to a strained relationship.
I did get to fit all three of my stern drains today and will be finalizing the hull side by tomorrow.
Fitting, aneiling and forming with the air gun did get the work well shaped.My small ball peen hammer was handy for the small detailing of the rims.
The angles from the inner were adequately reproduced.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1518
I had to painstakingly fish out this plastic connector that was firmly lodged within the mid transom structures.
The theory used upon original installation was to connect both brass drain terminals from both sides of the fish box drain and to couple them with this plastic duct.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1519
All three drains were prepped up and will be buttoned up tomorrow.
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/02/12 - 8:30 AM
#24
And a big sight of relief taken after having concluded this work detail.
All four through hull drains were individually tailored and installed.
The 3M 4200 caulking material did came in handy in isolating the finished work.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1520
Here is a view of the first phase of the fitting.The inner stern angle on the drain tube being completed;
The outer side has been angled and awaits the O ring.
Cable sump drain was next and having been reamed, went along rather nicely with the acceptance of the new brass.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1521
The finished stern section will show the two new self bailing fittings fish box new drain was also detailed.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1522
The anchor recess draining fitting will have to be addressed today.
As you can see, never a dull moment when working on your Whaler.
Posted by wannabe on 09/06/12 - 4:39 AM
#27
Keep posting with pics.
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/05/12 - 1:15 PM
#30
And a big Thank You to Finnegan/Larry for having sent a personal letter with some very good words of appreciation for my works here at Ritzyrags.
The fatefully made tracings will be put to good use in reproducing the support pieces for the gunwales shelves on the classic.
That is what a true Whaler Community member will be all about.
Thank You for the good deed Larry.
I will in time pass it on to someone in need.
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/05/12 - 1:17 PM
#31
Now on a different subject..
Who would we have among our numbers to etch and fabricate those darlings little metal tags to identify and attach to our stern sections?
Posted by ritzyrags on 02/05/13 - 5:10 PM
#32
I did get the needed tags from our sponsor Magic Brush.
Looks just like the thing..
And if anyone out there is left awaken by this thread
Let me know of the contacts to encounter the membership of
The Classic Whalers or Banana Owner's Club.
Posted by CES on 02/05/13 - 5:21 PM
#33
Welcome back Serge!!
What's the latest on your project? It's been quite a long time since we've read anything about it.
Posted by ritzyrags on 02/10/13 - 9:21 PM
#34
Thanks a bunch CES
It's been fast and furious here with a lot to deal with lately.
My project is still on track and alive.
Been trying to get parts, preferably OEM without having to get a loan for costs.
Jack plate and steering wheel are on my "get" list to start with.
Electrical s will be addressed in the last part of the fit.
I will update progress soon.
Thanks for your good thoughts.
Posted by ritzyrags on 02/28/13 - 9:12 PM
#35
I was very pleased with the work done from Janice at Magic Brush.
I did order a perfect reproduction of an original capacity plate and a BW hull number plate.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1581
Posted by ritzyrags on 03/30/13 - 8:26 PM
#36
The grass was mowed and the spring clean up is under way.
I did some update on the RPS and pulled the old tubular rod holder inserts off.
I did update this commodity to carefully fit two LEE's rod holders to the Teak backrest.
The 45' angle set up will be handy to have the rods set up near the console.when I do want them that close.
I can chalk another careful step toward this forever pleasant refit.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1582
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1583
On a lighter note
The Eagles have been circling me in response to my whistling to them when working outside on the boat.
And a brief pause wondering if they are ready to pounce and do away with me and my eternal works here.
To realize that I have no reason to fear since I used to customarily chat with them whistling and getting responses. They were both born here and from the huge nest in my backyard.
Their circling of my works will warrant me as family.
Posted by ritzyrags on 05/19/13 - 12:05 PM
#37
And after having gotten out of the way some pressing domestic duties as a new metal roof and heating/heat pump system installations to the ole shack here,
I did pull the trigger on a long researched jack plate.
West Marine contact had me forking out an extra $75 for delivery to my door here.
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/...Zke3tjgw1J
Forgive the long link.
Thanks to all my Whaler friends in helping me connecting the dots on this fabulous project...here.
Life is good when working on your favorite Whalers.;))
Do I get an AMEN?
Edited by ritzyrags on 05/19/13 - 12:08 PM
Posted by sraab928 on 05/20/13 - 5:33 AM
#38
Amen brother... Amen. Glad to see you still chugging along on her.
Posted by ritzyrags on 05/22/13 - 1:16 PM
#39
Thanks Scott,
As you well know this refit is like a good Cabernet
Not to be guzzled and certainly to be savored one sip at a time.
OEM parts locations have been an interesting challenge.
When all is said and done,
It would seem unlikely that I would leave her unattended at the docks.
I was not the one to coin "US" "The Three Amigos" but the evidence is showing that the feeling endures.;)
Hoy Caramba!
Edited by ritzyrags on 05/22/13 - 1:17 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 07/17/13 - 9:02 PM
#40
My Jack plate made from Power Lift was measured to the transom today.
I am planning to have the plate secured with four SS bolts to the stern.
The Merc was originally bolted through the structure atop but had two wood screw bolts holding the lower structure of the motor to the transom.
I am sure that some of you had to resolve that issue before.
Posted by egerrity on 07/18/13 - 9:09 AM
#41
Great pictures and progress. I look forward to the final photos. You have done a superb job.
Posted by jamesgt727 on 07/18/13 - 9:20 AM
#42
didnt realize this thread was so old.
Edited by jamesgt727 on 07/18/13 - 9:24 AM
Posted by ritzyrags on 07/18/13 - 1:30 PM
#43
Egeritty,
I thank You for your appreciation.
James,
To give you a bit of an explanation;)
My works here involve a ton of repairs and updates.
To work on my project can only be done after having cleared the deck of my quota of details.
Parts as in vintage are always sought year around.:))
I will update more on the subject later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 07/18/13 - 1:31 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/21/13 - 4:57 PM
#44
And today saw me re bolting my transom plate and prepping for the addition of the jack-plate.
In addition to this work the last coat of epoxy was layed to the gunwales.
The handy propane torch was used to remove any and all air bubbles.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1642
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/23/13 - 2:17 PM
#45
And for those of us that may have imagined that a jackplate can be just easily slapped on any given stern section, There is hope and relief in this update.
I will firstly discuss of the quality of this product here.The CMC Powerlift jack plate is extremely well built all aluminum pieces (5) and stainless bolts.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1644
To disassemble the unit giving clearance to fasten the lower "blind holes" was needed.
The addition of this component was an essential step toward completion of this refit.
Edited by ritzyrags on 08/23/13 - 2:22 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/01/13 - 9:42 PM
#46
Took advantage of the good weather today and got the rubrail track sections installed to the hull sections.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1654
Stainless screws were used to permanently attach the track to the hull.
PLC Premium was used as a caulking agent to secure and insulate the cap's lip before installation.
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/02/13 - 9:30 PM
#47
And for those who care to hear about the endless work here on the refit.
Today was a day that did enjoy custom fitting of the stern section areas.
Hot heating gun,cut off saw,drills and impact wrenches,belt sander,and plenty of elbow grease made this day into pleasant and rewarding results by sundown.
This Lady is starting more and more to look like a centerfold subject.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1657
Edited by ritzyrags on 09/02/13 - 9:31 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/03/13 - 11:47 AM
#48
At the risk of doubting of the interest in this refit..
And this due to the lack of comments.
Is there any of you still interested in this topic?
Posted by firebrand1 on 09/03/13 - 5:12 PM
#49
I'm interested in seeing how the old girl turns out! I have a 1975 Newport that I am working on as well--just stripped off the old black bottom paint and have begun applying custom-mixed tinted gel coat!! Managed to match the existing color of the bow area from the keel up to the old paint line which was quite different from the color from amidships aft to the transom! Batches were handled separately to accommodate the difference.
What's your next step?
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/04/13 - 12:09 PM
#50
The day yesterday was spent in;
Fastening the rub rail insert to the stern .
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1661
Picking up a tube of 3M 5200 quick dry and laying a seal on the upper rub rail junction to the gunwale.
Attaching the support brackets to the inner shelves
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1662
I was not totally displeased with the actual progression but was disappointed for having not be able to locate end caps for the rub rail finishing detail.
In preparation to install I did pause to study the fact that holes will have to be drilled to the front bow lip and bore through the newly resurfaced part in order to attach.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1663
This treasured part trusted into my ownership by CPT Jim of the Scrimshaw will finally find it's place and serve with pride.Thank You for your support..Always.
Posted by Finnegan on 09/04/13 - 7:58 PM
#51
Serge - there were no end caps used by the factory on the Outrage 19's. Here is the original detail, simply fastened with a screw:
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...3596070462
Why did you chose an all black rubrail system instead of the original off-white with red insert?
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/04/13 - 8:28 PM
#52
Larry,
Good to see that you didn't give up on me and my efforts.
The end caps is my way to dress up the end of the rubrail.
I am looking for a part similar in style to this OEM one.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showphot...hoto_id=31
A plain screw holding the insert somehow has fallen short for my taste.
The tracking and black insert were ordered directly from Chuck Bennet's directions.
The group order for the red and white came to be about a year later.
Kind of hard to justify the loss of some $600 for the one already here and go for another cost.
Anyway, I do like the classy black but would have ordered the red if available at the time.
Is there anything pleasant that has caught your eye?
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/05/13 - 1:35 PM
#53
And further more on the stern section subject.
Thanks for posting the appealing photo of your classic Larry.
What is the exact position of your Whaler logo?
Thanks as always.
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/07/13 - 9:27 PM
#54
As the World turn and in the inescapable truth that Time and Tide awaits for no man and so few Ladies..
To the preferred exceptions of our precious Classics Whaler hulls.
Plainly stated;
I was left undisturbed by static today.
Lost a bit of skin to the hands but managed to get some interesting details done.
The labeling of the hull was carefully done and I must say that I am not totally displeased with the final product.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1664
Capacity tags and labels were carefully affixed to the original designated areas.
The vent outlet emplacement was clearly designated with the correct label.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1665
I had to be mustering all my Magic to treat the new Whaler signs as a prospective new date on her first dance.
I am happy to say that we both feel just great after the concentrated effort.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1666
I do feel humbled standing back and admiring the final results of the concentrated efforts.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1667
As an intro to the next page,
I will say that the fitting of the bow light was an intense study.
More to come later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 09/07/13 - 9:29 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/08/13 - 8:16 PM
#55
Bow light has been fitted and collateral damage by drilling to the bow has been repaired.
I had to carefully drill@ a 45' angle to passage the way for the connecting wires to the front bow locker section.
I will again thank CPT Jim for having sent the well appreciated contribution for this refit.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1668
After all it can't always be about $,
That is what we try to do between Whaler Friends.
Thanks again for this essential part.
The bow bit was sent to the chrome shop and should be back soon to join the light who keeps asking me "Who has my back?".
More later.
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/18/13 - 11:32 AM
#56
The Bow Bit came back from the Victoria Plating Co today
The staff was courteous, and very efficient at giving me a reasonable quote for the rechoming job.
I will be pleased to replace the bow bit to it's original position.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1708
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/04/13 - 7:16 PM
#57
Dodging the intermittent sprinkle while the geese were honking their way South;
I did take time to re drill and re bolt down the renewed bow bit today.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1709
I wish that all the preferred Ladies in my life were all so very patient.
In my efforts putting away the Summer furniture today,I did take inventory of my boating parts and may have solved the garnishing of the end of the rub rail sections.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1661
More on that later.
Now for a plug..
I had great results in using Mr Clean extra strength "Magic Eraser" to start sprucing up the deck surfaces.I could hardly believe how well the white little sponge pad did in removing grime and stains.
Seems like I may have been sucking the hind t.t on this detail
but plenty had to be cleared on deck lately.
I am sure that you will be enjoying of what will be coming next..
Edited by ritzyrags on 10/04/13 - 10:19 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/05/13 - 6:04 PM
#58
While doing some work on the roof today
I came to view My Classic from a very different vantage position.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1710
I this point I will invite your honest opinions of the results so far.
There is no such thing as "bad" criticism.
I will ask for your opinions and your take on the way the Classic does look and in your opinion should look like in it's soon to be completion.
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/17/13 - 3:27 PM
#59
And to specifically address the Polling subject,
"Polyester Gel or Epoxy Paint"
I am well aware of the two widely used resurfacing agents but may like to hear of your observed preferences.
The question today will be as to,
Why do you prefer Gel over Epoxy and vice versa.
Meanwhile,
Back on the project that is giving me tickles when surveying the results so far..
I have re installed the original wood rod holders and had to rely a bit more than screws in order to get a firm and permanent positioning.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1712
The ID metal tag was also re fastened to the Port side stern section.
Caulking material was carefully applied to the tag and screws on positioning.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1711
For those of you not totally bored to death by this refit may give their thoughts on the work personally done here on this Classic 19 Outrage 1975.
Posted by ritzyrags on 05/24/14 - 12:44 PM
#60
Minimum thickness for local Teak was one inch.
Had to settle for Mahogany for console top.
Photo to my project page.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1760
Edited by ritzyrags on 05/24/14 - 4:49 PM
Posted by CES on 06/02/14 - 8:48 AM
#62
Nice!!!
Posted by sraab928 on 06/02/14 - 10:50 AM
#63
Looking good Serge.
Posted by gchuba on 06/02/14 - 7:27 PM
#64
I bet you held your breadth drilling, looking good.
Garris
Posted by ritzyrags on 06/04/14 - 12:20 PM
#65
Thank You Scott
And how is your Classic coming along?
Garris,
Prep is everything,
Premium quality tools will make the job easier.
CES.After having viewed your page,I would love to visit the Texas Coast areas
Thanks for the on Nice word.
More to come later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 06/05/14 - 1:37 AM
Posted by ritzyrags on 06/12/14 - 9:25 PM
#66
Today was spent in installing the windshield to the console.
A noted bit of complication was the inner console wing right recess installation of the washer/nut assembly.
Wet sanded the whole surfaces in prep for the next steps to come.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1771
Posted by CES on 06/13/14 - 11:25 AM
#67
ritzyrags wrote:
Thank You Scott
And how is your Classic coming along?
Garris,
Prep is everything,
Premium quality tools will make the job easier.
CES.After having viewed your page,I would love to visit the Texas Coast areas
Thanks for the on Nice word.
More to come later.
Sir, we have a lot to be thankful for in Texas! I hope to retire on the Texas coast some day.
Posted by ritzyrags on 06/25/14 - 4:15 PM
#69
Side door was carefully installed but not before having precisely expanded the opening on the console.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1775
The finish gloss being epoxy will at times give a rustic but uneven finish.
To the desired areas as in louvers; a careful sanding was done and; a couple coats of diamond Verathane was applied to seal the deal.
I am not totally dissatisfied with the results as I have tried hard to keep most parts from the original decade the Classic Outrage 19 were originally sold and sailed with great pleasure..
Still having fun with the detail and hope that you are enjoying of the progresses from this refit here from the great Pacific North West. ;)
Edited by ritzyrags on 06/25/14 - 4:16 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 06/27/14 - 3:29 PM
#70
Failure to locate a replacement part to install my console railing
I did enlarge the crack by cutting through fitting on the screw port section.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1776
Looking to get my hands on an exact replacement or to locate a stainless set up to give it a couple of beads to repair.
Posted by ritzyrags on 06/28/14 - 10:59 PM
#71
Between the Art carving shore contest today
http://www.crshorelinearts.ca/
and my daily duties to the estate
I did manage to have some quality time
And enjoyed assembling parts to my favorite Whaler project, "My Girl's Refit"
There is no doubt that I did assemble the Mahogany face plates to an initial .25" thickness and after enjoying the clunky effect decided to reduce the thickness by half.
A more streamlined effect was attained and kept.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1777
I did have a bit of a challenge in matching the gauges to the face plates but was actually pleased with the seating's.
To give a preview of completion I did crown the console with the "Smoking Hot" windshield giving a hint of things to come.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1778
To be continued.")
Posted by ritzyrags on 07/02/14 - 9:00 PM
#72
Upon setting the rod holder wood beds to console today
It became obvious that the 15" width was a bit too large to fit properly to the front of my tapered front Classic console.
After getting initially rather miffed by this setback
Did take a time out distracting myself sitting within the shrubbery shade and completing crosswords to occupy the time.
After having given the task to the behind the scene dept.
Solution #1 -To shorten one or both ends on the 15"s did prove unworkable.
Solution#2-to cut and shorten through the middle; unacceptable.
I ended up getting nudged toward my left over wood remnants and visualized a shorter version of the needed beds.
Reclaimed pieces were soon put to work through my efforts to make adequate d beds @ 13" per units.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1779
There will never be a dull moment when updating and taking your Classic to the Beauty Parlor.
Still somehow at a loss to know where those male snap parts from my back cushions went.
Never a dull moment here.
Edited by ritzyrags on 07/02/14 - 9:02 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 08/19/14 - 4:05 PM
#74
And to jot down a few words while being busy doing it..
I have been residing in Wet Sanding Heaven lately..
And this after God's flashlight has given me a magnified view of the small dimples left over from the previous sandings.
Ha! Never a dull moment here while working on the Whaler.
Beer on the house for the wet sanding addicts that need to get busy on the estate here..
That is what I get from having a side of me that is so damn well picky..
Plenty has happened since my last entry.
As in
The Port side of my gunwale mahogany having decided to separate itself from the Epoxy surfacing had to be removed.
And redone..
Never a dull moment at Ritzyrags :)
Edited by ritzyrags on 08/19/14 - 4:09 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/11/14 - 7:30 PM
#75
Hey! Ho!
Small setbacks were overcome d in seeing the mahoganies loosing their seals.
Things got a bit complicated upon removing the toppings to see some of the gelcoat chipping along the edges.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1856
Repairs, repairs and more repairs made the total effect on this refit a welcome d view.
The RPS was tentatively positioned and awaits for a precise position before being anchored.
Question to the Rank and File..
What would be the measurement in inches for the distance between console/RPS positioning?
More later.
Edited by ritzyrags on 09/11/14 - 7:40 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 09/19/14 - 6:44 PM
#76
And for the hardened detail incentive Whaler person looking for what may come next..
Great news from Mr Chuck Bennett having helped with the precise factory OEM distance between console and RPS positioning.
I will quote his response from my inquiry.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1857
"Pretty much all of the boats with the standard console and reversible pilot seat would have been set up at 18 1/2" between the aft edge of the console and the forward edge of the base on the RPS."
Thank You once again to Chuck for being so helpful in helping out.
I will look forward to thanking you in person at the earliest opportunity.
The seat was precisely positioned and pilot holes were carefully drilled.
The popular 3M 5200 caulk/sealant was used to secure the intrusion of screws to the deck.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1858
My fateful assistant and severe critic "Roxy Riddick" was not totally displeased with the latest updates and went on to mumble."I'll be keeping my eye on you Merc" :.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...to_id=1859
With critics like these is there any wonder that I can't afford to make too many mistakes ? :,
Edited by ritzyrags on 09/19/14 - 9:00 PM
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/08/14 - 6:10 PM
#77
And on the North Western front today
In the news and updates
The decking and structures were washed and refreshed.
Mid section cleats were carefully installed and properly torqued with large stainless backings.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1860
Only from a high vantage point and position did the obviousness of my resident Classic's effect on the resident foliage became apparent.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1861
After seeing this, I have no choice but to believe that the estate has fully adopted my Classic Outrage 19 1975 as part of the wholeness that makes Ritzyrags what it is here...
Posted by dougt on 10/08/14 - 6:46 PM
#78
Looking really good man.
Nice boat
Posted by wlagarde on 10/08/14 - 7:04 PM
#79
Looking really really good. Nice work!
Posted by ritzyrags on 10/08/14 - 9:33 PM
#80
My thanks to you guys..
Good to see that the Classic Whalers are still a current source of interest.
Always eager to hear of your latest updates and adventures.