---

Every year I cover the 22 with a tarp and tie it down well, but I live in a high wind area and it gets beat up pretty good from flexing (unfortunately no way to get it to fit as tight as shrink wrap).

This year I was thinking of trying to add "lateral" strips (for lack of a better term) in the shape of an upside down U that would run from side to side and attach at the top to the 1x strip that I normaly run from the tip of the bow rail, up over the T-top, and down to the stern.

It would be kind of like adding "ribs" to the structure to try and help keep the tarp tighter. Am wondering if I could mill down any specific kind of wood and have it bend to that U shape without breaking, or is that too optimistic? I've seen the flexible fiberglass slats used, but was thinking I may be able to make something up? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated, thanks.

---

Consider strapping (used in construction). I think the dimensions are 1/2 x 3 and sold in 8,10,12,14 lengths. It is typically southern yellow pine and #2 or #3 on the grade scale.

While it has some flex, you may want to get it wet and prop up the middle of the length to get it to bow. Adding cross pieces in the middle of the U will keep it from sagging.

I too use a heavy duty tarp. For the frame I use saw horse brackets and 2x4's for the legs and ridge. One set in the bow and another from the console to the stern.

My boat is parked perpendicular to NE so it gets the nasty winds on it's side. So far it has only collapsed once and since tying down the frame it stays put. 

I have the tarp closed at the ends and very tight (prevents snow load). 

I have recent photos and will try to upload them.

---

Thanks for the reply Phil. I have the same issue here with the strong NE winds off the water.

The height of the T-top creates a significant surface area on the tarp for the wind, so I'm hoping the "ribs" will take up most of the slack in the tarp and stop the flexing.

You've given me an idea with the strapping suggeston. I might try a series of inside relief cuts in the middle of the strapping strip where the bend wiill be to see if I can get it to conform to the needed radius if I can't get it to bend enough otherwise. Thought about water to add flex, and also steam, but wasn't sure how much it would penetrate?

---

Dave -

While I am sure you already know this, keeping the "ends" of the tarp closed help cut down on movement. I find when they are open, the tarp flails like crazy.

I have seen boats with T-tops wrapped at the yards. Do you go over the top with the tarp? Does your beam runs above the top?

---

Hello Guys ,

I have been shrink wrapping my Outrage over last few years but always wonder if a tarp would do just as good of a job .Iam interested in this thread as to how you guys wrap with the poly tarp over the TTop . I dont have alot to add but It really interests me . The price of shrink wrapping is expensive thats for sure . Thanks .

---

Thanks Phil, I run the support beam from the front of the bow rail, up over the T-top, and down to the stern just in front of the motor. I wrap the tarp pretty tightly in the front around the winch post, and in the rear have tried both covering the motor and not, and I pull it as tightly as I can to the hull. There's no real openings, but as you know, the wind will find a way.

Bob, that was my thinking in going with a tarp vs shrink wrap. Figured it would generate less waste the more seasons I could get from one tarp. If I can set this up the way I hope, I don't think 3 seasons is unreasonable.

---

I cover my boat each winter, and for the past couple years I used strapping and shrink wrap.... for me it is much easier than using tarps and gets the job done well, no sags, flapping, and no snow or water build up. If I did not have access to both the materials and gun I surely would use a tarp for cost savings.

For both tarps and shrink I used starpping to make the ribs, bends pretty easily, although others use PVC pipe. It bends over long lengths and is easy to use year after year.

Good luck.

Dana

---

I have been using the 4" pvc pipe setup for years now. There are no sharp edges to wear the tarp. Use one 10 foot section to run front to back. Connect a 90 degree elbow to each end facing down. Cut another 10 foot section in half to go to the floor . Where the two halfs touch the floor you use the pvc flanges that look like pedistal seat bases. Screw the bases to a piece of plywood for stability. Secure this frame with rope going over the sides of the boat. It costs about 40+ dollars to make but lasts for years. After the tarp is secured with bungee cords it looks like an army pup tent and can be taken off quickly to use the boat off season. Depending on what is in your boat you may have to make one of the upright pipes longer or shorter than the other. I have my 13' and my 16' covered with the same set-up. My 21 uses the same thing but needs a piece of wood duck taped to the front part to reach the front of the boat because the 10' pvc is not long enough for a 21' boat.
I know two people who carefully cut there shrink wrap off and get 3 years out of it and both of them have t-tops. They store the shrink wrap indoors so it does not get as much sun damage.