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Everything sounds good until you mentioned ZAR's polyurethane varnish. I would not use it. Instead, use Z-Spar's Flagship varnish, which has about 6 times the UV inhibitor of regular varnish. That is what you need for your exposure conditions. Use a foam brush to put on 10 coats, sanding lightly between coats with 3M's "Sandblaster" 320 grit paper. I have tried Epifanes
and Interlux varnishes, and find neither to be as glossy, nor hold up as well, as the Flagship. let the varnish cure for several weeks before re-installing on the boat, or parts will stick together. And avoid and finishing washers in direct contact with the wood. They cut the varnish skin. Alwasys use a fender washer under any of Whaler's finishing washer details. Countersunk screws are bad for the skin also. Plug the countersunk hole, re-drill from the backside, and use a pan head screw with flat wahser under it instead. This photo shows an example of each condition improved as I described:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...=R1-21.jpg

If you do it this way, you will not have re-strip next time, provide you don't let the varnish wear through to bare wood.
Just re-sand with #220, and apply another 3 coats when needed.

Here is some of my "Flagship" varnish work. I use Zar #120 teak stain first for additional UV protection.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...CN1357.jpg