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Hi All,

It's time to re-finish my Mahogany (winter project). My usual method is to strip off the old polyurithane with "Zip Strip" chemical paint remover, wash, sand, and stain with "Zar" Dark Mahogany stain (I like the look of the darker wood). I then apply about 6 coats of "ZAR" (Marine Rated) "Gloss" Polyurithane, sanding between coats, and cleaning between coats with mineral spirits soaked on a lint free rag. I only get a few seasons out of this finish as my boat is moored uncovered, and totally exposed to "Sun", "Rain", "Salt", and "Sandy sneakers". I've never used "Varnish" before, and was just wondering what "tricks" or "products" that others use to re-finish the bright work on their boat, does anything last longer than the way that I do it ?

Thank's,

Matt

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I did mine this past winter. No stripper; 60-grit disks on a random orbit sander took the old finish off fast and easy. I used mahogany and cherry stains to blend the colors of various pieces of new and old wood, then put on 6 coats of a quality varnish. All except the final coat were applied with chip brushes; the final was with a good badger brush. I sanded lightly and used a tack rag between coats.

Tim

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With that type of exposure, I would suggest sealing the wood with West Systems Epoxy using 207 Special Clear Hardener. 2 base coats will do wonders. After that, pick your favorite varnish-Epiphanes, Captains, etc. and apply your 6+/- coats of varnish over the epoxy. The epoxy will offer better protection against penetrations in the finish. I would also recommend annual touch-up's rather than the complete over-haul every 3 years. I seek out any problem areas that have developed over the season, scuff sand the area (if down to bare wood, re-seal area w/ epoxy) and re-apply an appropriate number of coats of varnish. Far less work than a complete strip.

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Are you refinishing every winter? If you are then you shouldn't have to strip off the old varnish every time. I would just give it a light sand and another coat or two every winter which is a lot less of a pain than stripping it all off and starting all over. As far as your process goes i do everything just about the same way. I apply the last coat of varnish with a foam brush because i think it comes out looking better. Good Luck

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Everything sounds good until you mentioned ZAR's polyurethane varnish. I would not use it. Instead, use Z-Spar's Flagship varnish, which has about 6 times the UV inhibitor of regular varnish. That is what you need for your exposure conditions. Use a foam brush to put on 10 coats, sanding lightly between coats with 3M's "Sandblaster" 320 grit paper. I have tried Epifanes
and Interlux varnishes, and find neither to be as glossy, nor hold up as well, as the Flagship. let the varnish cure for several weeks before re-installing on the boat, or parts will stick together. And avoid and finishing washers in direct contact with the wood. They cut the varnish skin. Alwasys use a fender washer under any of Whaler's finishing washer details. Countersunk screws are bad for the skin also. Plug the countersunk hole, re-drill from the backside, and use a pan head screw with flat wahser under it instead. This photo shows an example of each condition improved as I described:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...=R1-21.jpg

If you do it this way, you will not have re-strip next time, provide you don't let the varnish wear through to bare wood.
Just re-sand with #220, and apply another 3 coats when needed.

Here is some of my "Flagship" varnish work. I use Zar #120 teak stain first for additional UV protection.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...CN1357.jpg

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Surprised nobody is mentioning sikkens cetol marine. Start with a coat or two of cetol light then go with coats of cetol gloss. I use it on teak that is out all summer on Chesapeake bay, exposed to sun and rain and walked on. lasts for years especially if an extra coat added each year or two. I believe it can be used on mahogany as well. Anyone have experience with cetol on mahogany?