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Thank you for the replies. Have you ever run into any trouble getting a good seal on the angle side that you use the hammer on? When I cut the tube, I try to leave about a 1/4 inch to flare over the o ring on each end (I also put a little 4200 around the base). This has worked well in the past. In my current situation, on the angle side, my 1/4 inch turns into about 3/8 of an inch. I did hammer it over once, but questioned whether I got a good seal so I started over. I did not try the flat end of the hammer, but I will give that a shot. When I cut the tube a little shorter, the o ring just pops out.

I have also received the suggestion of cutting the tube to match the angle of the hull and use a smaller thread to compensate for the angle. I may give that a try, my only reservation being that I will be cutting the tube by hand and may not get the exact cut/angle that I want. The other thought I had was putting the preflared end on the outside; however, I am then stuck with the same problem on the inside and with less room to work.

I do heat up both ends until the tube looks blue and then drop it in water. I learned that heating it until turns red resulted in the tube bulging when I flared it. For what it is worth, flaring the tubes to 90 degrees is very easy, after that, it is as if I never heated the tube. Why it does this, I don't know, but it does make finishing the flare with the tool a little harder and it makes using the hammer somewhat difficult as I had to hit it good a couple of times to get the brass to curl over.