Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by 2pats2 on 08/30/10 - 5:10 PM

New to the program.Just purchased Whaler.I have alwaws had I.O. power or recently sail," Hobiecat",down scalenng all the way,I now have a 13/6 Whaler, crusing off into the sun set, that has a long shaft 35hp Merc.I now know that this is about 3"- below the keel and not as advised.I also have a 25 hp.Merc. long shaft, same problem.At this stage of the game I am not looking to show off some top premformance but just to have nice cruse.
Short of the transom buildup plate", buy the why ,what is the price of that".
Is there some some adjustments that can be made with what I have or going back to a short shaft the easy why.
Good on you......................
Patrick

Posted by CES on 08/30/10 - 5:33 PM

If your boat is a pre 1972, you have a 15" transom. Also, if as you say, your cavitation plate is three inches below your keel, you're losing some serious performance. Your choices are: get a 15" shaft motor (hard to find unless you buy a Tohatsu or Nissan), raise your transom by purchasing and installing a jack plate ($150) or KentFab Transadapter ($450), or building up your transom (lots of work).

Edited by CES on 08/30/10 - 6:49 PM

Posted by Joe Kriz on 08/30/10 - 5:51 PM

You don't mention what year but there are ways to raise your transom like CES mentions.

Here is some info about years of 13' Whalers and there transom heights.
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...;pid=65327

Posted by CES on 08/30/10 - 6:45 PM

Joe Kriz wrote:
You don't mention what year but there are ways to raise your transom like CES mentions.

Here is some info about years of 13' Whalers and there transom heights.
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...;pid=65327

Joe, you're right, he didn't mention the year. However I made the assumption that it was pre-1972 based on his statement that it was an older and the the long shaft motors seemed three inches to long. Just made sense.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 08/30/10 - 7:01 PM

Cliff,

After doing this for several years I am no longer going to play guessing games with anyone.

Some sites have requirements for questions or they won't be answered.
1. Year
2. Model
3. Serial numbers (stencil or hin numbers in our case)

However, we don't have those requirements but if a member can't even tell us what year Whaler he has, I am no longer going to try and guess.
I am always going to ask before I put any time into giving a response.

As you know, we have lots of info on how to determine the year of a Whaler of to get it somewhat close.

My suggestion to everyone, give us the year and model of your Whaler so everyone here can help you better. Otherwise we would just be guessing at what you may need and may be waisting your time and ours.

Posted by 2pats2 on 08/31/10 - 7:40 AM

Sorry about the lack of information in my post.The Ohio title that I received at purchase states that it is a 1966 .
There is no hull number listed and I can not find one.
It does have the lower transom .Some one suggested a jack plate or a filler plate that can be had for around $500 but I am not looking to spend that kind of money.
I am fairly handy with repairs and have done some fiber glass work in the past.Is there any plan that covers this project or is it better to bite the bullet and buy the plate.Also is anyone using a long shaft on the short transom and how does it preform ?
Again this 13 footer is a center steer,no consol,steering just mounted flush into mehogany plank,gunnel to gunnel.
Is this factory ?
Thank`s for all the responce............Patrick

Posted by John Fyke on 08/31/10 - 7:57 AM

I have a lot of experience with fiberglass work including putting a transom in my Grady White. I would not attempt to do any glass work of that sort with little experience. Remember it will be holding your motor. Or not.

Posted by 2pats2 on 08/31/10 - 9:23 AM

#10

John,got your "DRIFT",as when motor is gone.I understated my experance with the sticky stuff.Lot of Vett work.I am well aware of the stress and load factor involved in this type of project.I get a kick out of tackling something like this but would like to see a plan of someone that successfully pulled it off.
Thank`s for the input.
Good on you,
Patrick

Posted by John Fyke on 08/31/10 - 10:06 AM

#11

My recomendation to you if you were to tackle this yourself would be to cut all the old wood out and replace with one piece instead of adding to what you already have.

Posted by Joe Kriz on 08/31/10 - 10:27 AM

#12

There are several members that built up their transom. You would have to look in the Personal Pages at all the 1970 13 models and below.
http://www.whalercentral.com/viewpage...page_id=65

Here is an example of a member that removed all the wood in the transom and replaced it on an Outrage 18' which would be the same principle.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...album_id=8

Here is one members 13' that has an inexpensive elevator type bracket.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=4603

Here is just one example of the elevator bracket
http://www.iboats.com/Transom-Elevato...w_id.40157

Trying to put a 20 inch shaft on a 15 inch transom would be like throwing your anchor overboard and then trying to get the boat up on plane.

Posted by 2pats2 on 08/31/10 - 11:16 AM

#13

You guys are great,Thank`s for the many tips.I have a bunch of new ideas that should keep me busy this winter.I contacted KentFab and am waiting for a reply.
Patrick

Posted by thegage on 08/31/10 - 11:32 AM

#15

Be aware that some people have had very slow responses to e-mails to Kentfab. Odd way to do business, but there it is.

John K.

Posted by Binkie on 08/31/10 - 12:01 PM

#16

If your motor is a long shaft with tiller steering, you are using a lot more effort to steer the boat than you would if you had a short shaft motor. If that tiller somehow slipped out of your hand at high speed, prepare to get wet, as you will probably dump the boat.

Its not against the law, to use a long shaft motor on a short shaft boat, but it just looks plain stupid.

By the way I have a `87 short shaft 25 Evinrude remote control, with a bad powerhead $250

Posted by John Fyke on 08/31/10 - 12:37 PM

#18

Binkie wrote:
If your motor is a long shaft with tiller steering, you are using a lot more effort to steer the boat than you would if you had a short shaft motor. If that tiller somehow slipped out of your hand at high speed, prepare to get wet, as you will probably dump the boat.

Its not against the law, to use a long shaft motor on a short shaft boat, but it just looks plain stupid.

By the way I have a `87 short shaft 25 Evinrude remote control, with a bad powerhead $250

Huh? What does that have to do with this thread. If your selling parts your in the wrong section.

Posted by Binkie on 08/31/10 - 6:55 PM

#19

(Huh? What does that have to do with this thread. If your selling parts your in the wrong section.)

Thank you for your input, LOL

Posted by 2pats2 on 09/07/10 - 4:48 AM

#21

Contacted Kentfab by phone after no reply to e-mails.
There transom elevator plate is close to $500 with shipping.
Nice looking full width plate .Kind of pricey.I am drawing up some plans and making a mock-up and will visit a local fabricator to see what he can do.
Got my work cut out.Redoing the hacked up job that some one did on the bow eye and getting that transom to where I want it.
Man this boating season went fast.Time to get the leaf vacume trailer out and check the snow plow.
Thank`s again for all the input.
Patrick