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If that were my consol I would make sure the wood is extremely dry. Humidity and damp wood will kill this project. The company I work for made structural fiberglass coated plywood. in an extreme amount of trial and error and expence we found the need to get the wood moisture down to less than 4%. You wont get there without a vacuum oven so you need to get it as dry as you can and for your purpose your not glassing for structure. The first coat of resin you should thin to a runny consistancy and spread on all surfaces and let it soak in and cure. Then follow up with a thick coat of un-thinned resin and imbed the glass into it working out trapped air and bubbles with a laminating roller and rubber squeegees. Since you are using plywood really concentrate on your edges and where your glass overwraps will fall. You want the falling edges to be on the back sides as much as possible. I would also fillet all inside correner joints with thickened epoxy to at least 1/4" radius to help prevent cracking where 2 pannels meet. In my case I would use epoxy and tint it and I would also paint the final outcome with epoxy paint. As you are inexperienced ( MY assumption) the longer work time with the proper epoxy will be of great benefit but a whole lot more expensive. Polyester resin will work and will be more work if you decide to gelcoat when you get to final coating. If you are planning to Varnish over the the resin I would personally use epoxy so you can get a slow cure time and work out the bubbles. If you are going this route then pratice on a large piece of scrap use a relly slow cure epoxy and try a heat gun to break viscosity to release entrapped micro bubbles. This is an art not a just brush and go. Get it too hot and it will set-up and probably exotherm burning the resin.
Take your time prepping the raw fiberglass to lay where you want it so when you place it in resin and work it out you dont have to deal with a whole bunch of excess puckered up material that wont lay down properly.
Have fun.
Steve