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I just recenlty pulled off the old channel that the rub rail inserts into and put on new channel. I cut off any rivets with a snippers (cut partly one way, then turn the snips and finish the cut); this way the cut of the rivet will be flush to the boat as possible. After that we took a hammer and tapped on them until they were flush with the hole. Some we pulled out, but then you have a bigger hole. We cauked any remaining holes with a marine cauk. Make sure the rivets are flush so the new channel will fit up nice, and not be pushed out by any remaining rivet head. Once all the rivets were cut, and cleaned up to allow the new channel to go on; we put the new channel on. One person holding the role of channel, one person with a drill, and one person holding the channel down tightly to the boat when we were drilling. We then drilled new holes into the boat of which I really didn't want to do; but was the only real way of putting the new channel on, because matching the holes would have been difficult. We used #10 stainless screws; hex head. We checked on this; some say rivets are better; others say to use screws. I liked the way the screws went in. Boston whaler said they they install their rub rail channel by using these #10 screws and that have an epoxy on them. I would have liked to have these, but I neeed the screws the same day I called Whaler on this, so I couldn't wait for them by mail. I went downtown and bought 100 of #10 SS screws for about $30. I was told that you can get the epoxy coated ones from your BW dealer.