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I am getting ready to build a stern light for the 18Outrage. It will not be totally OEM, but I was curious how tall it needs to be? 3 feet seems way too short and 6 feet seems way too long?

Thanks

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Kamie,
I think the minimum height is determined by your CG regulations in the U.S. like it is here. You may want to check the reg's first then go from there

I'm interested to hear what you do because I'd like to get rid of the light on the console which our CG doesn't like when we're standing at the helm.

Peter

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Kamie -

The stern light on your 18' outrage needs to be tall enough to "clear" a visual line to the lamp over the outboard powerhead.

If you are keeping the OEM lighting and discussing the rearward facing stern light only and keeping the steaming light (Masthead light) at the console.

One of the advantages of the T-Top on Evenstar was the solution to this somewhat complex navigation light arrangement on the Classic Whalers. If you're going with an all-around (360 degree) light at the stern like most currently designed pleasurecraft under 25 feet long, then you need to elevate the lamp to a specific height above the red/green bow nav lights. JimH on ContinuousWave.com has specified the CFR that has this measurement, however, I believe I recall it as 3 feet above the red/green. DO NOT TAKE THAT AS GOSPEL...check my numbers!

I Hope this helps.

Peter -

This is a major challenge on an Outrage - you may wish to consider an arch to "solve" the problem as your CG sees it!

By the way - if it's working correctly, they don't have to like it....but it's legal!

I do a lot of night-time/post dusk boating....how do you think GAMBLER got an arch?!!

Hint - it wasn't for rod storage.

Cheers.

Dave

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My dilemma is when I sit on the RPS, with the forward shelter up I can't see where I'm going. If I stand up at 6ft 2in I block the light on the console and the stern which I've been stopped for on our busier patrolled lakes while watching fireworks with the kids. The all-round white light must be seen at all times as all-round. No intermittent tall over-weight bodies allowed. So I planned to do what Kamie's attempting, build a new, very tall, stern light.

Maybe in my next life I can afford an arch but in the meantime I just raised the console 6 inches and the RPS 6 inches so I'm hoping I'll be able to sit and see over over the forward shelter. Then maybe not block the lights.

n the end though I'll probably end up trying to create a goofy 6 or 8 ft stern light that'll be visible when all the canvas is up so there's no argument with our CG, OPP, RCMP, Port Authority and whom ever the heck else patrol our waterways.

Technically, I think your rules are similar in that the all-round white light must be 3ft higher than the red/green navigation lights as you suggest.

Kamie's done some incredible work to Evenstar this year. and I look forward to hearing how she resolves the concern.

Peter

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Peter -

I hear you - that exact concern (use of the light with canvas up) in Georgian Bay several years ago is what prompted me to "solve the problem". The glare back from the windshield makes it impossible to use the boat at night with the canvas up.

A tall stern all-around light on a very long mast is a good solution if you're not a fisherman. The Revenge Series has this solution (JimH's Revenge 20 had one). The problem is where to store it when not in use? Especially when using the boat for fishing too.

Besides that, you want the light to be elevated enough to keep the glare out of your eyes when looking aft, and to reduce backscatter on the deck. A glare shield may work well for this.

If I weren't going to have an arch or T-Top on the boat, I'd consider a very tall (8') mast in the rear, with a LED white all-around light on top. Re-wire your switch to run this lamp off your "stern light" setting and also for the "anchor" setting, since this new config will do double duty.

The total cost should not be more than 100 in parts - finding the appropriate size tubing may be the challenge. Use the OEM stern lamp fittings to secure it at the stern.

If the boat is being used for cruising, you can leave the light up....when fishing, either bring it along if you're going to be out after dusk, or perhaps bungee it to the bow rail to get it out of your way...or just fish around it!

Not elegant - but it'd work.

I will also be interested to see how Kamie solves this challenge. She's doing a first class job on the rest of the boat - I'm sure she'll come up with a first-rate solution.

Dave

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I guess you missed this in the Articles section.
There is a complete step by step instruction on fabricating all the parts needed.
Of course you can improvise on the methods used to accommodate your needs.

http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=23

I have a stern light from a Revenge model also. I am not sure how tall it is as I haven't measured it but it is over 6 feet tall I believe. It also has the 360º Perko light on top.
As Dave points out, stowing it can be a problem...

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I looked up the CFR and it says the all around light needs to be 1 meter higher than the side lights. Which basically means, I am purchasing the 6 foot SS 1 1/4 tube from McMaster. If I need to cut it or if I choose to leave it a full 6 feet is TBD. Basically my plan is to create an all around light for the stern using a Perko pole light, a teak washer, 6 foot SS tube and the two wire trailer plug. I really don't go out that much at night, but as I travel farther from home, I might be in that situation. Once built I will determine if I need the glare shield installed.

WARNING....WARNING...THIS WILL NOT LOOK O.E.M!!

http://s136.photobucket.com/albums/q1...amster_666
Perko Pole Light I am planning to use. The light is 4 inches tall, washer will be 3/4 of an inch and the SS tube will be either 6' or less depending on need. Total max height of the stern light will be 6' 4".

I don't think it would be stable to have a longer tube so this may be the max height you could get using the bracket and resting the stern light on the deck.

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kamie,

I will measure my Revenge Stern light later on today when I get a chance.

If you use an original Perko light, it will look OEM.... B)
I think they still sell a 360º that was used on the Revenge style stern lights.

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I've yet to research it but I've wondered why we can't take a 6 ft light mast, cut it in half, leaving all the wiring in place, then make it so there is either an inside sleeve or an outside collar to hold it together when needed. A folding light mast basically.

Peter

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Joe,

That is a possibility now that I need to order the SS tube. I could order PKO0371DP0CHR which I believe is the stern light used on the Revenge series. I was trying to do this without ordering parts, no luck.

The plan remains the same though, mount the light on a teak washer and fasten the washer to the SS tube, either using set screws or contact adhesive.

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kamie,

I just measured my stern lights.

1. Outrage series = 3 feet
2. Revenge series = 6 feet

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Thanks Joe,
BTW, I didn't miss the wonderful article about how to build one better than OEM. That is where I figured out I needed 1 1/4 inch tube and all West Marine sells is 1 inch. Looks like it's time to order more parts and get busy.
Parts list:
McMaster - p/n 89995K64 SS 6 foot 1 1/4 OD tube. <- going cheaper as this is welded as seemless is twice the price.
Perko - PKO0371DP0CHR 1 1/2 inches high by 2 1/2 inches in diameter all around light

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I have an OE Whaler 360 degree stern light from my Revenge Walk Through in my basement. It has been surplused since the installation of my RADAR arch and nav light reconfiguration.

This light stands 8'-4" tall overall. The pole is anodized aluminum which is what Whaler used early on and (apparently) on my 1988 Revenge as well.)

I may as well sell it if anybody is interested.

Kamie, if you build your own, be careful of what tubing you use. You want a very thin wall ornamental tubing, not industrial pipe. The weight will be considerable if the wall thickness is too great.

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Kamie,

I just looked up the McMaster-Carr part number you listed. That is .065 tubing. That is WAY too heavy for your intended use. Also be aware that it is not polished and you will have to expend some effort to make is presentable.

I bought some thinwall tubing from McMaster-Carr a few years ago. The finish was industrial, not ornamental. I was able to chuck the tubing into a sort of home-made lathe using a drill motor and spinning it while holding it in a sand paper wrapped hand and thus giving it a brushed finish that looks pretty good. It took some time and patience to get all the markings and scratches out of it though.

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Tom,
are you saying I could use thinner tubing? The .065 was the used for the stern light fabrication article http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=23 which is why I picked it.

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kamie,

.065" is WAY too thick. You want .035".

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Thanks Tom. The tubing will be at my house when I get home from work. Will take photo's and post. I will also look to order the .35 and return the .65

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tom,
did you say you were willing to part with the revenge stern light?
if so, please PM or email me.
thanks
Joe

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Tom,
.35 or .49? The 1 inch railing I got from West was .49?

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Kamie,

Whaler rails are made using .049" tubing. .065" tubing is extra strong and used by some manufacturers, but not many. the .035" tubing is the thinnest I can find on the McMaster-Carr web site. The OE stainless steel stern light used by Whaler may have had even thinner tubing. I have made two stern lights myself and the last one I used the .035" tubing from McMaster-Carr. It is as heavy as I would dare to use.

Joe, I would consider that if you have an appropriate home for my orphaned light. Send me an email.

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Thanks Tom,

I placed the order.

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I got the tube and I am waiting for the light assembly.

This weekend I was playing with the height using my boat hook as a test light. Dave is correct the regs indicate 1meter above the red/green lights. Measuring from the deck to the top of the gunnals is 18 inches, which means the light pole should be a total of 57 inches assuming the measurements are done to the bottom of the light. If the 1 meter includes the height of the light, then the total length of the pole is 55 1/2 inches. Past the 53/54 inch range the light is running into the stern cleats, although it's possible to work it back between the wires and the gas lines.

This is all assuming that you don't have to account for bow rise when measuring for lighting. Does anyone know if that is a true statement? The regulations didn't indicate anything other than height above navigation lights. They also didn't indicate height above things like, outboards, standing humans or sun tops.

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Kamie,

Of course you need to account for bow rise. The stern light needs to be one meter highr than the bow lights WHEN THE BOAT IS FLOATING IN THE WATER.

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Tom,

Do the rules apply for the bare hull or with the heaviest engine possible?
Even acounting for the difference, I think this turns the stern light pole into 5 foot length of pipe which is still doable to store although shorter is better for storage.

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I measured the difference between the bow and the stern with the boat floating and got 8 inches. So the stern light pole needs to be 60 inches long in total. This will put the light 1 meter above the Nav lights when the boat is in the water.

I will keep you posted on how the construction goes.

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I have almost finished the stern light. I used teak to make the washer and a 1 1/4 inch dowel that I then glued and nailed together. I drilled two holes thru the SS pipe to insert #8 x 3/4 inch screws to hold the top section in the pipe. The total length of the pipe is 60 inches although I am actually going to shorten that by 3 inches to 57 inches. That makes to light a total of 61 1/4 inches high when you factor in the the 3/4 inch thick washer, the 3 inch high light and the 1/2 inch rise for the teak block that the light sits in.
Evenstar

Light - Perko P/N 0371DP0CHR
Pipe from McMaster Carr - P/N 89995K62
Teak - leftover scrap

If the teak doesn't hold, I will have a 2 1/4 inch washer of Stainless Steel welded onto the pipe and drill / tap for screws to hold the light fixture on.