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Restoration…???
Pete_in_CA
#1 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 11:12 AM
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Boat Specs: The boat appears to be a 13’ Sport but I have no idea as to what the year is, and I have not been able to locate any kind of serial number ect…

I purchased this boat for very little money. What I know about the boat is that often took on lots of water when it was used. I assisted the pervious owner with pulling this boat out of the water, I know it weighed well over 500# (as it took several of us to place it on rollers and move it up the beach), and took over 20 minutes to drain all the water when it was pulled and placed upside down on the hard in 2016. The boat remained upside down on the hard until I purchased and relaunched it to bring it home Oct 2017. Once home I pulled the boat immediately and now have it flipped upside down in the yard. I knew the boat was a project boat as I had noticed 2 holes the size of a quarter on the starboard side when it was pulled in 2016. Thought that’s where the water got in…. until embarking on a voyage of discovery.
Voyage of discovery: Pictures tell it best, but what I found out is that someone had done a “Bottom Job” on this boat over a previous layer of bottom paint that they failed to remove before adding a lot of chopped fiberglass mat and cloth that concealed multiple penetrations in the hull.

Unfortunately pics are to large to load...working on that.


Edited by Pete_in_CA on 01/17/18 - 11:47 AM
 
Joe Kriz
#2 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 11:58 AM
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Welcome aboard WhalerCentral.

See this Frequently Asked Question on "What Year is my Boat"
http://www.whalercentral.com/faq.php?...?cat_id=10

The Stencil number can be found in the bow locker or below the engine on the inside of the transom depending on what year.
See this info on 13' hulls
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=101

See other members personal pages here
http://www.whalercentral.com/viewpage...page_id=65

Let us know what you find.

 
Pete_in_CA
#3 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 12:14 PM
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Joe,

Thank you much. I'll give it a look to see what I can find.


Pete_in_CA attached the following image:


[98.99Kb]
 
Pete_in_CA
#4 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 12:18 PM
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Some additional pics....


Pete_in_CA attached the following image:


[100.68Kb]
 
Pete_in_CA
#5 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 12:22 PM
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Second hole in the starboard side...


Pete_in_CA attached the following image:


[56.44Kb]
 
Pete_in_CA
#6 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 12:24 PM
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One more....


Pete_in_CA attached the following image:


[72.97Kb]
 
mtown
#7 Print Post
Posted on 01/17/18 - 1:28 PM
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You might want to remove the machete from the bottom it will cause a lot of drag when you run it.

The big issue is how much the boat weighs. If it is really soaked foam then it is probably not worth spending time and money. If the water was just in voids and has drained out then the boat is definatly fixable. Grind away all the loose stuff and bottom paint and cut the glass away where it is actually falling off already.

You will probably need some 2 part foam and some fg cloth like 1708.

I am a big fan of epoxy resin not poly so others will differ here.

Put in foam as needed, coat with epoxy to seal the new and old foam and then add more resin and cloth to fill the voids back to flush with the existing bottom.

I found using thin plywood as a "reverse form" worked well to keep the foam in the shape of the hull.


 
Pete_in_CA
#8 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/18 - 9:45 AM
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MTOWN,

Thanks for the recommendations. Although the boat has been on the hard since October, it remains very heavy. I was told by the previous owner that the deck has been cut out and replaced with plywood and glassed over. I in addition to the foam being soaked the plywood is probably saturated with water too. On the fence as to how much time and money I want to put into this....

 
mtown
#9 Print Post
Posted on 01/20/18 - 11:17 AM
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I would get 2- 2x8x14' and 2 2x8x8' and some 6 mill poly. Build a form and line it with poly. Fill with water and get some help to put boat in water. Add weight to stern to simulate motor, add weight to simulate people or just have them sit in the boat. If you can easily take it to water skip this step.

Compare the water line to the one painted and also compare it to pics on this site of the hull you have. If it does not sit much lower than it should, it is probably worth the effort to repair. Especially if you are just planning on using and not creating a show piece.

I did a major repair to my 16'6" after almost everyone that saw pics said trash it. I spent about $350 total and maybe 30 man hours. That was almost 4 years ago and I am very happy with the outcome. My foam was dry so it made sense to me to repair.

Of the $350 about $100 was on a epoxy barrier coat that was really over kill.


Edited by mtown on 01/20/18 - 11:21 AM
 
Bigred84
#10 Print Post
Posted on 01/27/18 - 1:17 PM
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I'm considering painting my 17 footer, I've read several posts were guys have used awlgrip or interlux on their hulls but when I called and talked to a service member for both places they both said you can not use their products below the water line. How are these guys doing their boats with these paints?

 
mtown
#11 Print Post
Posted on 01/28/18 - 6:14 AM
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Interlux makes many different kinds of paint. I think most people us Interlux Perfection for above the water line. For the bottom I would use Interprotect 2000e.

It is an epoxy barrier coat. Several coats are recommended. It comes in gray or white and is a two part paint.

You can then paint below the waterline with Interlux VP Epoxy. It is a very slick paint but is not anti-fouling, so if your boat is kept in the water it is not what you want. Just the barrier coat is fine, but again not anti-fouling.

 
Bigred84
#12 Print Post
Posted on 01/30/18 - 8:44 AM
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Thanks mtown! Could I use both of those to paint the entire hull not just the bottom?

 
mtown
#13 Print Post
Posted on 01/30/18 - 1:59 PM
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I would contact Interlux. They have tech help available. I would not use Perfection below the water and the VP is specificall designed to be below the water.
The barrier coat is also designed to be below the water.
UV may adversely affect those two if used where they are not designed for.

There are also many 1 part paints made by Interlux that will do what you want and be less expensive and easier to use.

 
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