1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Replacing Mahogany Ply
Old Whale ah	#1  Posted on 07/20/17 - 9:39 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Anybody think it feasible to replace the original top piece of plywood under the windshield of the Ol' Nauset. I am having her repowered, and now would be the time. The guy doing the repower suggests cuttin' in a piece of starboard(black) and not messin' with the restore of the beautiful Honduran or Okume piece under the wind shield. Is this piece glued in, as well as screwed? I think I know the answer, but how much time and was it worth it, anyone?
Phil T	#2  Posted on 07/20/17 - 9:52 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Why does the top piece need to be replaced? If you need to mount a larger/smaller binnacle, get a piece of from Blackduck to cover the hole and mount the new one. http://www.blackduckgallery.com/WOODP...PARTS.html 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Old Whale ah	#3  Posted on 07/20/17 - 10:31 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Kinda new at this, but the plywood is de-laminating and would like to restore the helm to original after the salmon season. Once the mechanic puts on the binnacle it will mean taking it off to replace the mahogany under the windshield. I will check the link you sent. Thanks!
Phil T	#4  Posted on 07/20/17 - 11:30 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 6985 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Given you have a fabulous console, I say repair and avoid the starboard. If it is on the top, would a piece of mahogany ply on the top work? 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Old Whale ah	#5  Posted on 07/20/17 - 11:34 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Yes, why not pick up windshield and slip a quality piece under it and cover the edges with trim of solid mahogany of some kind, eh? Thanks!
Finnegan	#6  Posted on 07/20/17 - 11:37 AM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	The mahogany plywood top on those consoles is 1/2", and I would replace it if you have some woodworking skills. Basically you will have to unscrew the windshield from below, about 8 screws. You may also have to remove the raised edging, involving chipping out the pegs/bungs and unscrewing the screws. this will expose the entire top piece, which can then be replaced. Be sure to save the old one for windshield screw location reference. The entire console top should be refurbished at this time with new varnish. It may be a decent project that could take two weeks or so, considering varnish curing times. Starboard would destroy the console and value of the boat.
Old Whale ah	#7  Posted on 07/20/17 - 2:50 PM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Thanks for the great idea Finnegan. I will do just what you suggested I am looking at different marine plywood aquatech in 12 mm seems to be the one. I can't seem to locate the Honduran plywood. But there is one called Moranti(sp?)or Okume any other helpful hints, sure appreciate it
Weatherly	#8  Posted on 07/20/17 - 3:22 PM
Member Posts: 754 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	I have used ribbon-stripped sapele. I always remove the console from the boat when I do my varnish work.
Old Whale ah	#9  Posted on 07/20/17 - 10:41 PM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Thank you Weatherly. I will look at the ribbon-striped sapele. I like your idea about varnishing the top piece away from the boat. I will apply the last two coats after the piece is screwed down and the bungs are tapped in, then the windshield can be installed again. I will attack the job tomorrow. I am hoping that the piece is not glued to heavily. I will drill out the bungs with a 3/8" bit after accurately center punching them, then I will attempt to pry the piece loose with a flat bar. I may have to cut out the center of the old console with a sawz-all leaving a horseshoe shaped piece of old the old console to chisel-out between the screw holes, "yikes!" "get er done!" Anybody done this demo/replacement before? Thanks
Weatherly	#10  Posted on 07/21/17 - 5:31 AM
Member Posts: 754 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	I replaced the two sides of an RPS using ribbon-stripped sapele. I encountered the original 3 coats of polyurethane but no glue. The old ply came apart easy enough after removal of bungs and screws. The hardest part of the job was getting the new wood finish to match the old wood. I did alot of hand sanding of the old finish. I recommend against using a power sander on the old plywood. I finished all five consoles and assorted seats shown in photographs posted on my website. Edited by Weatherly on 07/21/17 - 5:34 AM
Old Whale ah	#11  Posted on 07/21/17 - 6:04 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	All I can say is, WOW! You must be a Pro Weatherly, eh? I will hand sand all the old wood. Maybe, I should sand the gap between the old ply and trim before I try to pop out the old top piece, no? That will allow me to get rid of the original three coats of Polyurethane? I am a retired bridge carpenter, and I have not made the precision cuts that may be required to cut the new sapele. I am pretty fair with the Skill saw, however. Any advice on that?
Weatherly	#12  Posted on 07/21/17 - 6:25 AM
Member Posts: 754 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	Funny thing, I have been around these Nauset/Sakonnet/Eastport consoles since 1971, or 46 years and counting. I am an avid FP16.7 owner; not a pro at all. Some of my varnish coats still run in spots; I am the first to admit that fact. Definitely "mind the gap" by sanding it first. Use a new blade when cutting. If you have a 36" wide console, like the one I am working on now, remember, the only edge that shows is the one closest to the console facia (where the steering bezel attaches), so the cross cuts will be covered on the sides and front by the raised solid edging. You will be cutting a piece roughly 35"x19" if your console is a 36" wide. Edited by Weatherly on 07/21/17 - 6:32 AM
butchdavis	#13  Posted on 07/21/17 - 7:08 AM
Member Posts: 826 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/22/11	I would not use marine plywood or any plywood for that matter. Solid mahogany would be a far longer lasting material with no need of edging. I believe the cost of solid vs real marine ply would not be vastly dissimilar. Our 1981 Sport 13 has the original solid mahogany lumber and is in good condition. Butch
Weatherly	#14  Posted on 07/21/17 - 8:10 AM
Member Posts: 754 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	Old Whale ah: Be certain to download as a reference for measurements, angles, bronze screw sizes, etc., the 39 page pdf file for the Nauset/Sakonnet/Eastport console located in the downloads section of this site.
Old Whale ah	#15  Posted on 07/22/17 - 6:39 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Got the old piece out. I dug into the plugs with a 1/2" chisel and popped out the plugs. the piece had no polyurethane at the edges, but the one in front( because it was downhill) did had a pool of the hard stuff. I could not find the sapele in a marine grade plywood. Weatherly did you use solid sapele? Edensaw had sapele in solid, but was afraid to ask the cost. I bought, took home, sanded, cut to size, laid out the holes, countersunk, and have my first coat on some very nice Aquatec Maranti (Philipine mahogany) marine grade plywood. I would like to post before and after pics. I will look into sapele for the front three panels at the end of fishing season. Weatherly, are ya' near Peabody(pronounced "Pee biddy"),LOL. I lived there in 65' went to third grade there. My Step Mum is from there. I will check out the screw and angle specs. thanks Edited by Old Whale ah on 07/22/17 - 7:21 AM
Weatherly	#16  Posted on 07/24/17 - 4:28 AM
Member Posts: 754 Comments: 4 Joined: 12/31/06	Good job getting the old piece out. I did not use solid wood but rather purchased a piece of 4X8 foot sheet of ribbon stripe sapele plywood, The cost was $140. and I have used the extra for other projects. Solid wood is too unstable to use on the top of the console; it would shrink,warp, expand and ruin the top structure. Peabody is on the north shore and more than 100 miles away from me.
Old Whale ah	#17  Posted on 07/24/17 - 8:16 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	Edensaw has cabinet grade sapelle is that OK? The top that I removed was not marine grade ply, according to the "wood guys". I remember ice skating on the bogs behind the house we rented from Doc Wescott DVM in the mid sixties. LOL I am presently living on The Strait of Juan De Fuca. The Chinook salmon season has three weeks left out in this part of the Straits. I will have La Push and Westport (out in the "peaceful sea") still open by the time I get me boat, perhaps.
EJO	#18  Posted on 07/25/17 - 6:51 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 669 Comments: 6 Joined: 11/25/12	OWa Okoume ply is closer to the old Philippine mahogany than Sapele but slightly more expensive and for solid wood the Shorea Meranti is what I would use for end caps/finishing. The Meranti is very close in grain and color as to what Chris-craft used. Skipper E-J m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150
Old Whale ah	#19  Posted on 07/25/17 - 7:33 AM
Member Posts: 23 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/20/17	This photo is of the Meranti I chose to go with. Any comments are welcomed!? Will re-varnish this winter and might replace with Bob Latourelle's product. For now must repower and fish. The fishin' is restricted here. Thank you Boldt!? Old Whale ah attached the following image: [101.64Kb]