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Restoring/Replacing the trailer
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 10:55 AM
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I have a Long brand galvanized welded trailer that came with my Outrage 17. To say it has seen better days is a understatement. I cringed while driving it 400 miles home on New Years.
While it maybe seem smart to run out and buy a nice new trailer, I would really like to repair it and not spend 2k. There are no used trailers within 300 miles of me.
The main frame, axle, rear crossmember, rims and tires are in good shape.
WARNING: The pictures are scary.
My plan is to pull the trailer from under the boat, cut out the two cross members and associated parts. Will replace the bearings and install new bearing buddies.
www.Easternmarine.com carries Load Rite parts that are bolt on and could work.
Photos: http://s527.photobucket.com/user/Casc...%20Trailer
Let the comments fly!
[Edited the title to reflect the evolution of the subject]
Edited by Phil T on 01/15/17 - 8:17 AM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| guitarfish |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 11:17 AM
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I think that's the way I'm going about mine too.
I have a cross member that looks a bit iffy in the middle. If I can find it, I'll be able to just bolt up the new one.
You are right to do it off season. Trust me, I waited too long once......
Mine's a 17' too.
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| Finnegan |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 11:28 AM
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Phil - In my opinion, fixing up a trailer that is in that bad a condition is a waste of time and money. You will always still have an old, fixed up but valueless trailer. and you will still end up spending at least 1K on it before it's right.
Locate a Continental dealer in the Florida panhandle, and order a new all welded galvanized Tilt-frame keel roller CV-8-72 (2800# capacity), and you will be way ahead financially.
It may cost about $1600. I have this trailer under my classic Outrage 19.
See photos in the personal website link.
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| guitarfish |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 11:38 AM
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After Finny posted I went back and looked at the front member pic, which I should have done before commenting.
But though I understand his point, if (big if), the side beams are still good I would just replace the cross members.
I'm self employed and have more spare time than money this time of year.
If I could I would certainly upgrade to a double axle w/ electric brakes!
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 12:26 PM
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While I agree with Larry (Finnegan) in principle, there are too many items fighting for the budgeted dollar.
2 of the 3 cross members are totally rusted through. The hull is resting on the bunks and not the rollers.
My tentative plan is the get a two or three years out of the trailer then replace it.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| jgortva |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 1:44 PM
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Phil,
You are right, those cross members look scary. It is a shame because the rest of the metal on the trailer doesn't look bad. I couldn't get to the link for Eastern marine, but I cannot believe your fix would cost as much as Finnegan estimates. I guess it comes down to how much you use the trailer and far far you transport your boat. If you are like me and leave your boat in the water for the season or trailer for short distances to your local waterway then I think your idea is spot on and you will probably be surprised on how long you can keep that trailer going after repairs. If you like to travel with the boat or tow on roads with a lot of steep grades or hills, then you will probably not be completely satisfied until you replace the trailer. No offense, but as for the tilt continental trailer Finnegan has, I am not a fan. I have had a couple of Whaler buddies who have that same model and they do not like them much. The tilt feature is mostly useless, and I do not like the way the bunks are positioned as without guide ons getting the boat on the trailer in a level centered fashion can take multiple attempts and on a busy weekend, people waiting to use the launch ramp can have little sense of humor or patience. I would agree that a upgraded new trailer for your boat that is set up or designed a little better would be more in the $2000-$2500 range.
Jim G.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/12/17 - 4:02 PM
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The boat will be trailererd 100% with closest pond 40 miles way. Expect to pull it to TN, Great Lakes, Indiana etc.
I spent some time on Eastern Marines site and my rough estimates for parts is already at $700 and does not include bunk boards, rear guides, tax or shipping.
4 cross member hangers
2 cross members
3 bunk bracket kits
2 bunk carpets
5 10" rollers (2 on rear, 2 on middle, 1 on forward)
5 10" roller brackets
5 stainless shafts
10 cotter pins
6 U bolts
6 plates
6 nuts
1 V bow stop
1 5" roller
1 ss shaft
2 pins
1 winch strap
Cr*p. Larry's estimate is spot on (go back up to post #3).
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| alan heckmamleper |
Posted on 01/14/17 - 12:26 PM
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Phil, I went through the same thing a few years ago and I ended up getting a new trailer. Check out Pirate Marine .com, this is where I got my trailer. My trailer is a Load Rite galvanized bunk trailer. The base price was $1499, I added a spare tire and rim, LED lights, and added 3 yellow rollers ( 2 at the very back and 1 on the crossmember and also 1 at the front. The total for everything was about $1800. I have sold 2 boat trailers and 1 was a salt water trailer that sounds just like yours. You should be able to get $400 or $500 out of your old trailer even in the shape its in. You will have close to $1000 in your old trailer plus your time to rehab it, so for what you can get out of your old trailer and what you spend on trailer parts to rehab your old trailer you can have a brand new trailer. Check out Pirate Marine.com and see what you think Dan, the owner is good to deal with and they are located in Berlin Lake, Ohio between Akron and Youngstown just off Interstate 80. P.S. I never had any trouble selling any of my old boat trailers.
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| mtown |
Posted on 01/15/17 - 5:28 AM
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I have rebuilt 2 trailers including axles and all cross members, and in one case even replaced the main beam that the tongue attaches to.
I say this to indicate that I am not opposed to the concept of repairing one. In the case of your trailer, I bet when you start the disassembly you will end up finding the springs and shackles are also bad, and possibly the axle and hubs.
Also those wheels that look fine may be shot. I was putting air in a tire when the back side of the wheel split completely out. Visually both wheels [galvanized spoke type] looked fine. My boats are either on a lift or in one case on the trailer next door to the ramp I use.
If I trailered as much as you I would buy a new one. Especially if you plan to do so in 3 years anyway.
I like Eastern Marine, but check out Champion Trailers for parts also. Think they are in Louisiana.
Edited by mtown on 01/15/17 - 5:30 AM |
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| jcdawg83 |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 7:30 AM
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I went down the trailer repair rabbit hole with an aluminum trailer. After a year of buying parts and doing some work myself and paying to have some more complex work done, I bought a new galvanized trailer. I spent $1600 on a new trailer after spending about $800 on parts and labor on the old trailer. I did manage to get $270 from a scrap metal yard for the old trailer. Of course, this was shortly after spending the last money, $180 for two new tires and wheels.
My advice is; buy a new galvanized trailer.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 9:12 AM
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Ok - I am convinced. A new trailer it is.
Given that I expect to use the trailer in fresh water 95% of the time and the budget is already blown, I am looking at a galvanized bunk trailer with doubled up keel rollers on each cross member.
As for dealers within reasonable driving distance, these are my choices:
Road King - Winchester - 15 miles
EZ Loader - Louisville - 60 miles
Shoreland'r - Lake Cumberland -85 miles
*Load Rite - Charleston WV - 175 mi
* My 1991 Outrage 17 had a 2004 Load Rite trailer that was fantastic. Same model is available.
The closest Continental dealer is outside of Mobile, AL and that is just a bit too far.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| gchuba |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 9:29 AM
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For Phil's application I completely agree with replacement. On the other hand. I restored a trailer for a 1978 23' Penn Yan I purchased. Dual axle and heavy construction with 3/16" and 1/4" angle/channel iron. A new trailer I could see spending over $5,000 (not as heavily built). I reused the old rims (Ford bolt pattern) with the hubs completely rebuilt, tires, machined the old drums, new brakes, springs and bolts/pins, etc.... Axles left in place. I did all the labor and about $900 out of pocket. It still looks like an old trailer. I believe you need to look hard at replacement cost vs. repair cost as well as use. My out of pocket similar to Phil's estimate and not as comprehensive but, I feel safe and secure towing it. So those looking at this thread please weigh all the factors because in my application.....well worth the rebuild. I would not consider rebuilding Phil's trailer.
Garris
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| wezie |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 10:05 AM
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Congratulations on your new trailer.
There are a couple of places uo front on your old trailer frame which look iffy at best.
The closed axle tube may have no rust or may break tomorrow.
Had one like it break on a private ramp with no witnesses and it was still a surprise and a pain. $300 for new axle and Two 20 mile trips to get it. Do not know what it would have cost on the road.
Given all your time and travel to get this old one fixed, the new one is a great way to go.
I often forget the resale dollars. Even a few dollars for the old one makes the difference.
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 4:21 PM
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Phil,
Good decision. I would have had serious doubts about the integrity of the trailer frame/rails. If the cross members have rusted through the frame can't be too far behind. Even though the forward portion of the frame is not always submerged the after half is submerged with each use. Rusting from the inside is insidious and difficult to detect with out special gear. For your 17 a welded aluminum trailer constructed with C channel would get the job done.
Butch |
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| boomerang206 |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 4:46 PM
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I've seen so many times boat owners who have every boat improvement and convenience from dual bilge pumps, Epirbs, to vhf and satellite phones sitting beside the road due to trailer maintenance or lack thereof . Go for the aluminum nonrollered bunked trailer. A torsion axle and all stainless hardware using teflon insulators to minimize dissimilar metal induced corrosion where you can. I use non carpeted treated and painted bunks with surifix bunk slicks. I bought my basic trailer off Craig's list used for $600.00. $600 more thrown at it and I have a great low maintenance trailer that minimizes road shoulder sitting while wishing you would have spent the extra bucks. I will post finished pix of mine in a few weeks......$1200.00 in a trailer you couldn't buy for 2 grand. Salt water is tough on everything. For me anodized or stainless all the way! Bo........Boomerang206
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| boomerang206 |
Posted on 01/16/17 - 4:51 PM
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Plus lots of freshwater wash down wth liberal coats of Mercury outboard corrosion guard.......I forgot!
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| mtown |
Posted on 01/17/17 - 5:33 AM
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Phil's trailer gets a freshwater washdown every time he backs it in. Since the budget is a factor galvanized is perfect.
It would be interesting to see the weight difference for aluminum.
I have always considered aluminum but I trailer very little and there are still a lot of steel parts to go bad in salt water.
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 01/17/17 - 7:05 AM
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mtown,
I believe the steel hardware used on aluminum trailers is usually good quality stainless. The trailers are usually welded so the use of bolt-ons is minimal. Our aluminum trailer non-aluminum parts are "potted" to prevent/minimize bimetallic corrosion. The torsion axle and hubs, etc are an exception although the axle attachment at the frame is insulated with rubber or neoprene sheet.
Three years of year round salt water use and so far no visible corrosion with the exception of some light rust on the steel winch and landing jack.
Of course for Phil's use in fresh water only it's a non-issue except possibly for resale.
Butch |
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| mtown |
Posted on 01/17/17 - 9:11 AM
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butchdavis wrote:
mtown,
I believe the steel hardware used on aluminum trailers is usually good quality stainless. The trailers are usually welded so the use of bolt-ons is minimal. Our aluminum trailer non-aluminum parts are "potted" to prevent/minimize bimetallic corrosion. The torsion axle and hubs, etc are an exception although the axle attachment at the frame is insulated with rubber or neoprene sheet.
Three years of year round salt water use and so far no visible corrosion with the exception of some light rust on the steel winch and landing jack.
Of course for Phil's use in fresh water only it's a non-issue except possibly for resale.
That is good to know. I guess my main thought was the hubs,leave springs. One of these days I will buy aluminum.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 02/24/17 - 5:17 AM
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I wanted to follow up on this thread for those interested.
The current trailer fits the boat rather well so I took it's measurements. I went online and researched the companies listed above and created a "spec" list and emailed a handful of dealers.
After followup emails and two rounds of phone calls and onsite visits I got solid quotes from 50% of them.
I elected to go with LoadRite based on prior experience, price and build quality. The trailer selected is a bit overbuilt and over spec'ed for what the boat needs but that was the idea.
I elected galvanized since there is a slight chance of returning to the ocean and it has a smaller LOA/boat ratio and can fit in tight garage.
While I have read/helped many purchase a new trailer, doing it myself surprised me in that it was as hard, if not harder, than I expected.
It was very time consuming with lots of details to verify. We caught 2 or 3 incorrect details, that if even one occurred, would have led to disaster.
I purchased all the keel rollers and hardware separately because they are not standard anymore and are expensive options that can be a DIY.
I expect delivery in the next 10 days (3-5 week delivery from order date).
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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