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Bottom Paint Recommendation
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| jmerry |
Posted on 08/01/16 - 6:09 PM
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I know that there are probably pieces of information scattered around in various posts regarding my question, but I'd like to get some specific feedback for my situation. I'm a novice painter, so I don't want to mess this up. Thanks in advance for any thoughts / recommendations.
I purchased an immaculate 2012 Boston Whaler Montauk 150 with thinning black ablative bottom paint. From what I can tell, the boat never sat in the water, but previous owner had it painted "just in case" - and has never been in salt. That said, I'd considered removing it, but I know that would be a huge job - and I know that they probably lightly scored the hull for adherence and getting it back to shiny glass would be a lot of trouble. I do, however, like the contrasting appearance of the black, so think a hard, durable, slick gloss epoxy would be the simplest ticket.
The boat will NEVER sit in the water and will always be trailered to and from the lake. Garage kept and will likely never see salt, as we're situated in the north Georgia mountains and is used primarily for striper fishing.
Thoughts or suggestions regarding paint or other options? I considered a cheaper topside enamel and also have looked at the Interlux VC Offshore, although I'm not crazy about spending $260 per gallon. My primary goal if painted is to gain a high gloss, hard, durable, and slick finish that will be as fast or faster that waxed fiberglass. Paint will be brushed or rolled on, as I will do it at home.
Thanks!
Jay Merry
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 08/02/16 - 5:10 AM
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First, you may want to remove the existing ablative pain. It is designed to wear away and may not be a good base for a decorative paint. I would not put an epoxy paint over it.
As you are a novice painter epoxy paint may not be a good learning candidate. I believe a coat or two of a good topside marine paint may be a good choice for your boat.
If it was my boat I would chemically remove the ablative paint and restore the bottom gel coat. A fine grit sandpaper followed by rubbing compound, polish and finally wax should have it gleaming better than new.
A 15 foot bottom will do quickly and in the long run be well worth the effort. When the time comes to sell the 15 you will realize a quicker or more profitable sale of a fresh water boat with no bottom paint. Many buyers are suspicious of a fresh water boat with bottom paint as it may be hiding a repair.
Butch |
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| jmerry |
Posted on 08/02/16 - 5:27 AM
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Thanks so much for the recommendation, Butch. It certainly could be that stripping the ablative paint and going back with the original gel coat would be the best option. Primarily I was looking for the easiest solution as the work will be done in my garage, although I agree that having the original hull would increase resale value.
In regards to stripping - can you recommend a chemical stripper that would act effectively on the ablative paint?
Thanks again!
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| jgortva |
Posted on 08/02/16 - 6:07 AM
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jmerry,
I have traveled down your road previously. I had a 13 foot sport that had faded almost, "baby blue" bottom paint that I ended up stripping off with some stripper I got at Home Depot that worked along with a paper type medium. You applied the stripper, and then stuck the paper medium to the stripper. Hours later after the stripper kind off dried, you peeled the medium off and along with it came the bottom paint. It was real effective, however the sanding scratches left by the prep work made it pretty much impossible to revert the boat back to gel coat without a huge undertaking. I ended up settling on re painting the bottom in black using Interlux VC Performance Epoxy Bottom Paint. It has Teflon in it and has more of a semi gloss sheen to it rather than gloss, but I believe it is pretty much almost as slippery as the gel coat. This way, you would actually have bottom paint on the bottom of your boat in the event your plans change, you want to put the boat in for the weekend, or even sell it.
Jim G.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 08/02/16 - 7:11 AM
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If you do a search on "remove bottom paint' you will see several comments:
-Paint over
-remove manually with non-toxic products.
-hire someone to soda blast or shell blast. (both are VERY messy).
If me, I would do in sections over the fall/winter. Start with the transom, sides and bow areas that can be seen.
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| jmerry |
Posted on 08/02/16 - 5:19 PM
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jgortva wrote:
jmerry,
I have traveled down your road previously. I had a 13 foot sport that had faded almost, "baby blue" bottom paint that I ended up stripping off with some stripper I got at Home Depot that worked along with a paper type medium. You applied the stripper, and then stuck the paper medium to the stripper. Hours later after the stripper kind off dried, you peeled the medium off and along with it came the bottom paint. It was real effective, however the sanding scratches left by the prep work made it pretty much impossible to revert the boat back to gel coat without a huge undertaking. I ended up settling on re painting the bottom in black using Interlux VC Performance Epoxy Bottom Paint. It has Teflon in it and has more of a semi gloss sheen to it rather than gloss, but I believe it is pretty much almost as slippery as the gel coat. This way, you would actually have bottom paint on the bottom of your boat in the event your plans change, you want to put the boat in for the weekend, or even sell it.
Jim G.
Thanks so much for the information, Jim.
I've been given similar advise elsewhere, although hopefully, the gel coat could be sanded lightly, polished with rubbing compound, and waxed to bring the original shine back. I too believe that whoever applied the paint probably scored the gelcoat lightly, but I don't believe that it would be hard to restore. It would, however, be plenty of work.
That said, worst case I could strip it off and evaluate - allowing either further refurbishment of the gelcoat or application of a hard paint like VC Offshore.
Do you recall the stripper that you used?
Thanks again!
Jay
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| jgortva |
Posted on 08/03/16 - 5:54 AM
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I am pretty sure it was the "Peel Away easy paint removal system".
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| Cape Codder |
Posted on 08/03/16 - 4:23 PM
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I use Pettit Hydrocoat Eco WATER-based ablative paint in black. Unbelievalbly easy to use with water clean up.
But, a neighbor uses the same product in WHITE!!! On a 2015 170 Montauk it is undetectable!
Not a bad option. 1 quart ought to do it, maybe 2.
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| tedious |
Posted on 08/04/16 - 5:40 AM
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Regarding the stripping, any way you do it is going to be a nasty job. Is there a place near you that does soda blasting? I've even seen places that come to your house and do it. It gets a lot of dust around, but it's just baking soda so will be gone with the next rain - might even be good for your plants and lawn!
Then you can see how it is underneath, and decide whether to polish it up or recoat it. I really like the idea of a bottom paint that matches the hull, may do that myself someday.
Tim
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 08/04/16 - 5:47 AM
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Beware any blasting operation. A lot of damage can result. If you go that route I recommend you be there and observe the work in progress.
Butch |
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| jgortva |
Posted on 08/04/16 - 5:56 AM
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I agree. If your goal is to try to preserve the gel coat, I don't think any media blasting will leave it like stripper will.
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| jmerry |
Posted on 08/04/16 - 5:35 PM
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Excellent comments, gentlemen. Thanks so much for the feedback.
At this point, I'll probably attempt to remove using the strip away system and evaluate the status of the gelcoat. If questionable, I'll likely go back with another paint - otherwise, may attempt to polish back out.
Any ideas for working on the hull? Do you guys work under the trailer and jack up to get under the bunks? Or, put on blocks? The 150 is a beast and pretty heavy for working on at home.
Thanks again.
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| Jay Fitz |
Posted on 08/04/16 - 6:58 PM
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You state that the boat will NEVER sit in the water and almost never see salt. If that's the case, you do not need bottom paint.
If you decide to strip what is currently on there I suggest checking out Star 10 stripper, great product and their website, starten.com, is quite informative.
Now, if you do decide to repaint for whatever reason, Hydrocoat is the way to go...
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 08/05/16 - 5:32 AM
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To save yourself a LOT of effort bite the bullet and turn the boat over. First remove the engine. Then rig up a couple of saw horse type supports to put the hull on to do the work. Make them tall enough to minimize stooping and bending. Get a couple of potential new fishing buddies to help with turn the boat over.
CAUTION: Don't do any bottom sanding or stripping over a lawn. Bottom paint will poison the grass and soil for years. Don't ask how I know.
Butch |
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| wezie |
Posted on 08/05/16 - 4:15 PM
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butchdavis wrote:
To save yourself a LOT of effort bite the bullet and turn the boat over. First remove the engine. Then rig up a couple of saw horse type supports to put the hull on to do the work. Make them tall enough to minimize stooping and bending. Get a couple of potential new fishing buddies to help with turn the boat over.
CAUTION: Don't do any bottom sanding or stripping over a lawn. Bottom paint will poison the grass and soil for years. Don't ask how I know.
Butch has been there.
If I were obsessed with this project?
One afternoon when the weather is decent, I would take a piece of 200 to 400 grit wet sandpaper and while the boat is in the water, sand a hand size spot to see what lies beneath the paint.
If you want the best results, turn the boat over. Working under a boat on a trailer is virtually impossible.
Even With the boat on a hoist, the job is miserable at best. You are still working over your head and trying to do detailed work. Not more damage.
With the engine and most equipment removed as practical, a few folks can turn the boat over onto strong saw horses, even the trailer with a few cross timbers. Plan this carefully.
You will have to bribe the same folk to turn it back over, and that will not work if they are damaged.
I would let some of it wear off. One year at a time. Some of the mess will go away, and you will get wiser in the meanwhile. If the world ends, this is just one miserable job you will not have had to finish.
Hope that the original prep was delicate work done by sensative hands and 600 wet sandpaper. Plan for work done with 40 grit and an angle grinder. Like Butch, I have seen too many done this way. That is the reason for the small test spot.
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| butchdavis |
Posted on 08/06/16 - 7:32 AM
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A small test spot is a smart idea.
Butch |
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