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1997 17' Outrage II Deck
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/26/16 - 11:41 AM
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My 17' Outrage II deck above the fuel tank is soft. I plan to remove console and lift deck to replace what ever is below.
Does anyone know what lies below? I am assuming that is is plywood that got wet and rotted. Has any does this and could give me some insight or advice? Pictures also would help.
[Edited to clarify model is the post-classic Outrage 17 II to avoid confusion with the earlier Outrage 17 I model.]
Edited by Phil T on 07/26/16 - 3:31 PM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/26/16 - 11:47 AM
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See "Outrage Deck Repair" in our Articles section
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...p?cat_id=5
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/26/16 - 12:11 PM
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I have read this article many times and I am guesing that I should assume that the 25' has basicily the same deck as the 17'?
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/26/16 - 3:29 PM
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Yes, the tank lid is the same construction.
The top is thin gelcoat with non-skid, followed by resin, cloth, 2 or 3 layers of plywood followed by cloth and resin.
Is the soft spot where you stand at the helm or very close to an inspection port?
Take some photos and post.
You should closely inspect all the hoses: Fuel fill, vent and supply. IF they don't say "alcohol resistant" along the sides, you should replace them while deck is up. Not hard.
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/26/16 - 5:19 PM
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The deck is soft from console back. It is soft under the RPS also. I believe the entire deck is rotted.
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/27/16 - 4:46 PM
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What do you guys think about replacing plywood with star board?
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/27/16 - 5:24 PM
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lewain wrote:
I have read this article many times and I am guesing that I should assume that the 25' has basicily the same deck as the 17'?
The 25', the 22' the 20' the 17', and any other models that have a removable fuel tank cover.
Starboard?
If you stand on a 4'x8' sheet, how much does it flex in the middle?
How much is a sheet compared to plywood?
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/27/16 - 6:21 PM
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I believe the flex is compatible to marine plywood. As far as cost the starboard is definitely more expensive. However, would not need to use fiberglass just epoxy. What are you thoughts?
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/27/16 - 7:06 PM
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Starboard is not structural. It is VERY heavy.
If you want to avoid the epoxy route, try one of the other boards. It will be costly.
Research this for your application:
http://coosacomposites.com
If you have the skill to paint a room, you can do the plywood route following the repair article by Jeff Rohlfing
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=8
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| gchuba |
Posted on 07/27/16 - 7:16 PM
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Not only is starboard non structural....it repels sealants.......is also expands and contracts quite a bit. I used it as the top/roof of my hard top and one hot day I saw it "blistered out" from the areas that were not screwed down.
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| lewain |
Posted on 07/29/16 - 7:27 AM
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I am intrigued by the Coosacomposite. I want it strong and never have to worry about it again.
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| tedious |
Posted on 07/29/16 - 7:38 AM
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The Bluewater 26 panel sounds like an excellent choice - supposedly lighter than plywood too. And from the Hamilton marine website, a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" is around $250 - not horrible for a job you want to never have to do again.
Edited by tedious on 07/29/16 - 7:48 AM |
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| lewain |
Posted on 10/20/16 - 1:30 PM
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When using the coosa composite, should I still seal it with a layer or two of glass and resin? or can I just epoxy it to underside of my deck?
What do you guys think? I want it strong and maintence free.
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| lewain |
Posted on 10/21/16 - 5:08 PM
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Anyone?
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| DennisVollrath |
Posted on 10/21/16 - 7:39 PM
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Coosa recommends replacing plywood with the same thichness of their Bluewater 26 product:
http://coosacomposites.com/technical-...-data/faqs
I think this means you should use 3/4" for a floor, or laminate fiberglass around a thinner size.
Dennis
1985 Outrage 18 with Suzuki DF140A |
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| tedious |
Posted on 10/22/16 - 5:02 AM
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The coosa FAQ Dennis posted speaks to this specific situation - read the answer to the question "What factors should I consider in choosing and installing Coosa panels?"
In short, they recommend using the same methods that were used to construct the original panel. So if the original was laminated both sides, I would do that. Stiffness is important and core thickness has a major impact on the stiffness of a laminated panel, so I would possibly go thicker than the original, if it will fit. You can choose a panel that weighs the same as the original plywood, but since the Coosa is less dense, it will be thicker. The back is not exposed to UV, so I would be inclined to laminate the back with epoxy resin and woven fibreglass or even carbon fibre if you really want to go nuts.
Edited by tedious on 10/23/16 - 5:56 AM |
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