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Anyone have a kicker on a Montauk 170?
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 11/13/15 - 8:14 PM
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I know this subject has been discussed several times but I couldn't find anyone discuss a kicker on a 170. During this off season I am planning on putting a kicker on mine and looking to see if anyone has done it and is willing to share the how it went.
My present plan is to add a 6hp Mercury on a Tanner Mfg mount. I would like the 8hp but worried about the extra weight. If you have experience with the 170 I would like to hear about it.
Thanks
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| Newport17mikey |
Posted on 11/15/15 - 9:28 AM
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l installed a 1983, 9.9 evinrude on my 1988 newtauk,90 hp, bolted straight to the transom, starboard side,works like a charm. On full plane the kicker is totally out of the water. Trolls great, stears with large motor, again have not had any problems with this set up. Mike
Edited by Newport17mikey on 11/15/15 - 3:41 PM |
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 11/15/15 - 7:10 PM
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Mike
How close to your max transom weight are you with your setup. With the 6hp am going to really close and a 8hp or 9hp would put me 30 to 40 lbs over the recommended max. Mike
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| Phil T |
Posted on 11/16/15 - 8:16 AM
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Here is Warren's (WT) photo album showing his Mercury 6 hp kicker on his Montauk 170.
Warren is pretty hardcore and I respect his setup and gear.
http://smg.photobucket.com/user/warre...amp;page=1
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| Newport17mikey |
Posted on 11/16/15 - 9:39 AM
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1988, Newtauk, 1989 2 stroke 90hp evinrude Fitch, 2 stroke 9.9 evinrude 1986,weight around 85 #. I think I'm ok on #, 4 stroke weight more than 2 strokes, I'm problem right with Phil T on weight. The boat still level in the water, no water in motor well, when setting in wafer.
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| Newport17mikey |
Posted on 11/17/15 - 9:00 AM
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I saw were the max hull weight was around 410# or so for a 17' montauk, so l'll asume that my evinrude 90hp,2 stroke weight in @ around 320#, with power tilt and trim and kicker 9.9hp 2 stroke is around 85#', I'm right around max, I feel ok, with that weight,the gas tank is under the RPS, all three battier are up front, one under console, two in the cooler for for trolling motor 24v. Just my thought's
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| Phil T |
Posted on 11/17/15 - 9:15 AM
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Please keep in mind the Montauk 17 and Montauk 170 are completely different hulls.
Kicker selection and mounting is not the same for both models.
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 11/17/15 - 11:34 AM
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Yes. That's why I am looking specifically for someone with kicker on a 170. With the 6hp and the 2015 Mercury 4 stroke there is no max weight wiggle room. But I think it will be fine and I never fully load with people.
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| Newport17mikey |
Posted on 11/17/15 - 1:48 PM
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sorry I didn't see the 170, I thought all Montauk were the same. Mike
(Edit: fixed typo in Montauk for search ability)
Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/17/15 - 2:50 PM |
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| Permit1 |
Posted on 11/18/15 - 8:02 PM
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I have a Merc 9.9 on a Tanner mount on a 2007 montauk 190 and it works great. The mount is the best.
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 11/19/15 - 7:55 PM
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Did all the bolts go below the step or did you put a couple of though bolts above the step? How are you as far as max engine weight? Do you have any pics?
Thanks
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| JackMuffin |
Posted on 01/19/18 - 4:28 PM
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Gentlemen: could you please shed some light on Kickers and brackets.
I own a Montauk 190 (2011) with Mercury 150 EFI Fourstroke.
I am buying a long shaft Mercury 9.9.
I don't know yet how to install in a very steady and neat way the small engine. I have seen Mfjnet picture and it has a very nice look.
Can you please tell me what bracket you have used (Tanner? which model?), how you manage the small engine when cruising at high speed and also if the two engines are coupled.
Thank you very much for your help.
Edited by JackMuffin on 01/19/18 - 5:17 PM |
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 01/20/18 - 10:33 AM
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I used the bracket from Tanner Mfg for my install of my 9.9 hp kicker. My boat was only 1 year old and I wanted something solid, durable and professional looking that would last the lifetime of the boat. I believe Tanner brackets does this but they are costly, but well worth it in my opinion. You can just call them and they have a product for all Whalers.
To mount mine a built a jig that would hold the motor with the bracket attached and I attached this jig to my motorcycle Floor jack. This way I could move the complete set up up, down and sideways and look at and measure everything perfectly for the best location. I have attached a picture of this set up on my personal page on this site. I also created a plywood jig that matched the mounting face of the bracket and holes exactly. This helped me drill perfectly spaced and perpendicular holes for mounting. The top 3 holes are above the rear seat and I used white bolt head covers for a professional look.
The final attachment location allows me to fully tilt up the motor (must be turned to one side) for cruising and launching. I steer with the main motor by attaching them together with an EZ Steer set up. The rod with the EZ Steer was too short so I purchased a longer stainless steel rod and bent it in a Z pattern for a perfect fit. I also covered the rod in a hard plastic tubing for a great look. I had to build a small aluminum bracket for attachment to the kicker motor. In the end it works perfect, steers great and comes on and off in seconds for tilting and cruising. After 2 years of use with many hours trolling for salmon i have no regrets or problems with my set up.
Hope this helps
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| JackMuffin |
Posted on 01/20/18 - 10:48 AM
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Kind of you Mjfnet.
I'm thoroughly reading your post and I'm trying to fully understand in Italian some terms I am not used.
I think that your solution is the neatest I have seen up to now.
Before looking at your picture I had already identified Tanner as "the" solution, now I am trying to contact them to see if they can ship overseas.
One more thing: should any doubt arise, I will come back you.
Thanks a lot for now.
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| JackMuffin |
Posted on 01/24/18 - 4:09 PM
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Question for you, Mjfnet.
I am in touch with Tanner, they have been very helpful and I am in the process to place the order.
But...they supply the bracket in two flavours: offset at 6"1/2 or offset at 13" from the transom.
I am highly in doubt.
Since, as far I have seen, you have my same engine "long shaft", which one of the two bracket did you choose, and why?
My first idea is to go with the 13" as I have more room to lock the engine high enough when not in use, but I am not 100% convinced of this.
One more thing: did you install a second plate inside the boat on the transom or not?
Thank you very much.
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| Mjfnet |
Posted on 01/24/18 - 8:03 PM
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Mine is the 6 1/2 offset. That is the size they recommended for 17 Montauk. It works well for me, but I could see an advantage to the 13” in that it would be eadier to tilt the motor up. Mine tilts up fully but must be turned to one side and you have to reach down to the stop to un lock it.
I did use some stainless steel backing in the area of the boat behind the access hatch. In the area above the step I backed with some 1/4” starboard and washers. After 2 years of lots of use of the 9.9 Mercury trolling it is still solid.
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| JackMuffin |
Posted on 01/25/18 - 12:24 AM
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Thank you.
I had the very same idea about backing with a stainless steel plate,
I am still in doubt; the 6" 1/2 is unobtrusive, the 13" probably not.
It never happens that the propeller comes down to the water when the engine is up?
And...your engine is long shaft, correct?
Edited by JackMuffin on 01/25/18 - 12:26 AM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 01/25/18 - 11:55 AM
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Have you seen this article for reference?
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=111
http://www.tannermfg.com/motorbracketsorbrackets
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/25/18 - 11:59 AM |
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| JackMuffin |
Posted on 01/25/18 - 3:50 PM
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Yes, thank you. Pictures depict the “long offset” bracket, it would be very useful to have an identic look of a similar engine with “short offset” bracket which is less intrusive and, by far, nicer.
I am convinced that Tanner is the right choice, I still have doubts on the offset.
It will end up that if I cannot find a lateral picture of the transom with the engine up I’ll have to revert to a simulation with drawings where I am hot very keen.
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| gypsmjim |
Posted on 01/25/18 - 6:15 PM
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I went through the same issues earlier this year, and also got a lot of info from this site. In the end I took my chances and did what I thought was best. My current setup is awesome, and exactly what I wanted.
First of all, I think the Tanner is a wonderful bracket. But I thought it cost more than it was worth so I bought the competitive Garelick model. It isn't as fancy, but it works fine.
Originally, I estimated that I needed a long shaft. Wrong choice. It ran fine, but it dragged in the water at any speed when not in use and tilted up. I ended up trading a brand new motor in for a NOS short shaft.
The picture of the Suzy above looks to me that the motor is a long shaft, and thus longer than it need be. For a troller that will never exceed hull speed, only the prop need be below the bottom. Lining up the cav plate with the bottom is not necessary. Now, having said that, if that motor does not drag in the water, then it should be OK and the extra drag from the longer shaft will probably be insignificant.
I didn't buy a EZSteer, but rather simply a SS all-thread and a pair of QD couplings, and cut it to the proper size. The main already had a hole in the bracket that worked fine.
I have had kickers on every boat I've owned since 1968, so I have a bit of experience. Nevertheless, I still learn new tricks every day.
The attached pic was taken with the original long shaft. The new short shaft is much higher out of the water.
gypsmjim attached the following image:
[101.46Kb]
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/26/18 - 11:53 AM |
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