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1998 anniversary model 13 ft.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/01/15 - 1:41 PM
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Just acquired a 1998 model in need of new varnish for the mahogany.By flipping the front bench seat I'm able to avoid sanding the old cracked varnish,but need to remove the port sideboard to flip the rear bench.Have removed all screws but board seems to be glued in place.Also need to remove steering wheel to sand front of console.Removed nut and washer but wheel will not pull off.Must need special tool?
Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Sam
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| playinghooky1 |
Posted on 11/01/15 - 2:04 PM
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I see that you are new to the forum. welcome! There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here that will to give a lot of great advise. I have a 1993 13' Sport. I assume the wood is the same. On the port side it is just a matter of removing the 3 screws and pulling it off. As you stated there is probably some varnish holding it on probably stuck to the seat. Just carefully pry it off. Should come off easily. As for the steering wheel, they do tend to stick on there. What I do is loosen the nut to the top of the threaded shaft, then leave the socket on it and gently tap the socket with a hammer while pulling up on the wheel to break it free. It should come off. There is a sloth Ed shaft with a D type item that stops the wheel from spinning on the shaft so be careful not to loos it.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/01/15 - 5:31 PM
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Thanks.My port sideboard has 6 screws.Have tried to pry the board loose with a putty knife but no luck.After pulling outward just short of splitting the board,decided to give it a rest.
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| jgortva |
Posted on 11/02/15 - 6:05 AM
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Dont know what to tell you about the seat without seeing it, but the steering wheel will come off using a fan pulley type puller. it is shaped like a triangle with 2-3 "claws that attach to steering wheel hub and a center bolt that when screwed in one direction will push against the steering wheel sheft and dislodge the steering wheel off the keyway.
Edited by jgortva on 11/02/15 - 6:07 AM |
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| Eddie M |
Posted on 11/02/15 - 12:26 PM
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My brother and I have the same boat. Mine is #12, I can't remember his number. Its stored with without a motor. I refit mine the same way you are refitting yours. Be careful with the wood. Don't over sand your joints and wait until the varnish fully cures before assembly. It sounds like the previous owner was in a hurry (understandable). I removed my helm wheel with a ordinary automotive steering wheel puller. Be careful not to damage the wheel. It will take some patience and fitment to avoid damage. Use tape and rags. I mounted a 2014 F40 and it runs great. The best of luck in your refit. You will see many boat captains stare at your little prize. Its a work of art.
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| MG56 |
Posted on 11/02/15 - 1:04 PM
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sam30328 wrote:
Thanks.My port sideboard has 6 screws.Have tried to pry the board loose with a putty knife but no luck.After pulling outward just short of splitting the board,decided to give it a rest.
It is frustrating that the port side board won't come off but don't you only need to take out one side to remove the seat? Still, I'd also want to take it off so I would look close to see if there are any plugged fasteners. If not I'd be tapping a wide putty knife in from one end to see if I can free up the board without it taking gelcoat with it. If I get no joy at one end I'd try the other end, and at this point I am thinking something is very wrong. Something wrong like someone read that 3M 5200 is the best sealant and used that to seal the screws.
As for the steering wheel loosen the nut but leave it threaded just proud of the shaft and smack it with a hammer while you apply pressure on the wheel. This works best if you have a friend or three hands. You leave the nut on the shaft so you don't damage the shaft, and one or both of you don't end up off the boat when the wheel comes free.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/02/15 - 2:10 PM
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Thanks again for all the advice.I'll try tapping a putty knife under the sideboard and seat edge when I'm back at the lake Friday.Sounds like the steering wheel will take some patience.
So the best approach is to take all the wood apart for refinishing ? Was thinking the console could be refinished in place.
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| Eddie M |
Posted on 11/03/15 - 6:54 PM
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There are mounting blocks connected to the side riser. You can remove the screws that attach the blocks to the console and remove the console. That should make it easier to remove the stuck riser. Mine also had some type of adhesive between the riser and hull [only on the starboard side]. I had to carefully use a utility knife and cut a fine line to separate the riser from the hull. When assembling I applied a thin coat marine silicone to the deck side of the console deck mount block bottom and smeared silicone over the console mounting screws [including the above mentioned block] to prevent water intrusion around the screws. Don't forget to use flat SS washers or plastic washers behind the finish washers that mount the risers to the hull to prevent the finish washer from cutting into your varnish and destroying the finish and seal.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/05/15 - 7:35 AM
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Thanks Eddie M ---I'll try your ideas this weekend if we don't get rained out--have not seen the sun in a week.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/08/15 - 5:59 AM
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Has anyone tried stripper to remove what seems to be 5 layers of varnish ?
I know Whaler recommends sanding off the finish to avoid spilling stripper on the floor,but it's taking forever to get through the varnish using 80 grit with an orbital sander.The sanding block seems to do just as well with more effort.
The riser is not budging even after tapping the back with a putty knife.
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| Eddie M |
Posted on 11/08/15 - 6:09 PM
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The adhesive on mine was between the bottom of the riser and the hull shelf it supported by and, only about 3" long. Someone really made a mistake and put adhesive on the side. I am assuming it was to keep the riser in place so the screws would not loosen. Checking attachments is just part of keeping a boat that pounds in order. It's going to be a tough act to not damage the gelcoat with stripper never mind keeping the varnish off the hull during application. You might have to destroy the riser and cut it close to the shelf to make it easier to access the adhesive with a razor. Better to have to replace the riser than damage that beauty.
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| sam30328 |
Posted on 11/09/15 - 5:09 AM
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Sounds like good advice,Eddie.
The riser seems to be glued to the side of the boat for its full length,but the back seat is glued to the horizontal edge that it sits on,with a rubber spacer between the seat and riser--this must be to prevent vibrations.
My only choice to prevent damaging the gelcoat may be to sand and refinish the riser in place.Is there a better choice than Helmsman varnish?
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| Eddie M |
Posted on 11/09/15 - 6:05 PM
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My neighbor used Helmsman on his 1977 13' Sport and it has a very nice finish. I used West Marine varnish. It too finished very nicely. I think the finish is more a result of the preparation and application than the material. It's a tedious time consuming task. The results are beautiful and compliment the boat in an outstanding way.
(changed abbreviated year to full 4 digit year per guidelines at the top of this page)
Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/09/15 - 6:39 PM |
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